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Old 12-27-2019, 07:22 PM   #1
Black16
 
Drives: 2016 Camaro SS
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Useable power level before loss of traction for a street Camaro

How much power can you make while still having traction on a street driven Camaro. I only drive the car 6 months of the year but there a power level where the car no longer hooks. I am looking to add some power but for me it would be of no use if I can't put the power to the road.

Just looking for a experienced opinion. How much power can you make safely without fueling issues and other problems. Either naturally aspirated or power adder. Please advise.
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Old 12-27-2019, 07:27 PM   #2
HCI2000SS

 
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All I can tell you is that even with 17" drag radials and some suspension mods my 700 hp 2000 SS can't find traction till 3rd gear
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Old 12-27-2019, 08:02 PM   #3
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Let me chime in with a data point under the lower bound: I have 560 rwhp and PS4S tires, traction is usually not found until 2nd, but the 2-3 shift is already on a planted car.

Will switch to R888R's after the winter, I'm sure they will easily hold this much power and practically all I may want to add later (in my case, I see no point in adding so much power that no streetable tire in the world can hold for a RWD car).
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Old 12-27-2019, 08:29 PM   #4
Black16
 
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I have a 2016 SS but I only drove it for 7 weeks before putting it away for the winter. From what i have read about 550 to 600 is streetable power for these cars. I am however asking for suggestions from people who have modified their cars.

Thanks for the posts above and the ones to come.
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Old 12-27-2019, 09:49 PM   #5
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I am somewhere between 6-650whp. I can hook first when it's above 70, 2nd gear above 50, 3rd gear pulls only when it's below 45. Nitto 305/35/20 555r.
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Old 12-27-2019, 10:00 PM   #6
Kerry

 
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depends on the kind of power you want. Bunch of wheel spinning tq on the bottom
(way Fun) or a more progressive type. I really like my procharger, it comes on more gradule but not too much. I think,, and could change my mind any second lol is for the street I like the pro 570 then went to 650 is about where I am now. For the track with prep I would think positive displacment would be the way to go. Lots of varibales. As far as the procharger with meth injection I can get loose through second pretty easy with even the toyos r 888rs 315 30s but I dont want less power ha, Get a good tuner is key I think as well
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Old 12-27-2019, 10:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
I am somewhere between 6-650whp. I can hook first when it's above 70, 2nd gear above 50, 3rd gear pulls only when it's below 45. Nitto 305/35/20 555r.
Would you tink the 555 hooks better than the nt05r. ? I have the nts and seem no better than the toyos but maybe i did warm them up enough. I usaly just do a quick stab to kind of clean them a little then hit it
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Old 12-28-2019, 02:35 AM   #8
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M6 and ps4s, no hook till 3rd say 650 who Procharger, built engine. Now with a bigger cam, even with a near stock exhaust, no gear is usable at any legal speed, not even close to maxing out the d1x. Will try 888 in the spring. I’m in the low 700 whp range with near stock exhaust. At least I can hear the tires breaking away. With LTs, it really seemed like the car was on ice with traction control off... for some reason. Large cam, which spins the blower fast due to much higher red line 7200 rpm, LTs just tossed Any street ability sans traction out the window. I may even go to a larger pulley (less boost), just to be able to more safely apply power. It is funny now that sound, flexibility and part throttle response, drone....are on top of my list....too much hp for any normal street tire. I can tell you all that large cam, boost and near stock exhaust....really sounds great under all conditions. The is a monster under the hood and it is not rumble rumble, it is more banshee to 7200 rpm.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:18 AM   #9
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IMO its subjective. Different people give different opinions on what's manage power, and what's too much power in any given platform. Even a stock LT1 will have no problem spinning into 2nd without T/C if you just go balls to the wall with it.

I used to DD an 03 Cobra for years. It put down 490 WHP/502 LB-FT. On street tires I could spin 3rd up to around 75 MPH on a cool day. On 555R's from about a 5 MPH roll on a warm day, on a good road it would dead hook 1st. If you ask the internet 2/3 of it will tell you that 555R's are the biggest POS tires out there, and they hook no better than most performance summer tires, and that you need M/T, Hoosier, BFG, etc DR's. That's not to say others haven't had traction issues with 555R's, but at the 500 WHP level I found them to be an excellent all around compromise. People want to ride around in 600+ WHP cars and expect them to dead hook on the street. That's not realistic if you aren't a disciplined driver. You need to learn when and where you can feed your car throttle without going full Mustang.... Ummm I mean retard, and crashing into people.

I can tell you right now an Alpha platform is much more composed and capable of putting down power than an old SN95. I see no reason that the chassis shouldn't be able to keep most of its stock composer at 550-600 WHP on good street tires without having to drive too conservatively with it. Just remember that more power = easier tire spin. I think a GEN6 SS would make a very fun and ideal car for a max effort, stock bottomend, N/A LT1 build. A N/A 500-550 WHP would make this a very fun street car. Kind of like a N/A 420-450 WHP made for a very fun GEN4. Not the fastest things on the street, but fun, enjoyable, fairly safe power. Trying to manage too much power by driving overly conservative can be less fun than just having a car with manageable power. JMO.
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Old 12-28-2019, 09:49 AM   #10
parish8

 
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I find places to use 800-1000hp on the street.

I drive around with drag radials all the time at 20psi. leave soft in 2nd gear. ramp up the power based on speed. if your tires are warm you can give it a ton of power by 70-80mph. certain kinds of pavement will hold a ton of power once you are rolling. a roll race starting at 40mph is pretty common, it only takes a second before you are up to a speed that will hold a pile of power.

but yeah, smash the gas from a stop in 1st gear with cold runflats in a stock camaro and your going to smoke the tires.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry View Post
Would you tink the 555 hooks better than the nt05r. ? I have the nts and seem no better than the toyos but maybe i did warm them up enough. I usaly just do a quick stab to kind of clean them a little then hit it
Some of it has to do with the size more then the compound. The NT05 should hook better being it has a 0 tread wear compared to the 555r 100. My brother has the NT05r 315/35/20 on his Hellcat and they hook good.

That being said I can pull bottom 3's 0-60 with these 555r's on the street. It does require a light first gear burn out to clean them off. That is with all nannies off. TCS has pretty much been disabled and my trans shifts with full torque. It's by no means dead hooking. If I was at the track on a tire I would expect mid 2's...so a lot of it is the driver and knowing how to modulate the throttle. You can't just stomp it out of the hole. I normally break stall to 1500rpm, roll into the throttle as I let off the brake(which flashes the converter a little), then put it too the floor linearly. So yea it's definitely not utilizing all of it's power on the street out of the hole, but imo a low 3 second range 0-60 on the street is moving pretty good regardless of the car or amount of power in a front engine car. I'm sure I could break into the 2's with a drag pack...I'm still riding on the factory 20's.

On my 2002 H/C/I A4 z28 which was around 450whp. I had both the Nitto 555r and MT Street SS in 275/50/15. I could pull 3.5 0-60 on the street with either tires. What I like about the Nitto is they ride better, last longer, and hook pretty much just as good on the street. At the track the Mickey should do better. I also do not like how those super soft compound tires ball the tread up on the street and look like the rubber is peeling off. That seems to hurt the traction when they do that.

Also, I spun easier with my SS on stock run flats with light bolt-ons and e85. Best 0-60 was 3.9 but normally averaged 4.0-4.1. When I put the 555r's on I could pull 3.5's all day and even pulled a 3.4 once.
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Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP
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Last edited by KingLT1; 12-28-2019 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:21 AM   #12
Black16
 
Drives: 2016 Camaro SS
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King , what is the safe limit for the stock fuel on 91 octane with a power adder. I just want to do this once as far as modifying the car. It is a daily driver for 6 months then goes into storage. The car is a great car to drive.but a little more power is always nice. Looking for a nice driver with more power.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:26 AM   #13
oldman


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JROC View Post
IMO its subjective. Different people give different opinions on what's manage power, and what's too much power in any given platform. Even a stock LT1 will have no problem spinning into 2nd without T/C if you just go balls to the wall with it.

I used to DD an 03 Cobra for years. It put down 490 WHP/502 LB-FT. On street tires I could spin 3rd up to around 75 MPH on a cool day. On 555R's from about a 5 MPH roll on a warm day, on a good road it would dead hook 1st. If you ask the internet 2/3 of it will tell you that 555R's are the biggest POS tires out there, and they hook no better than most performance summer tires, and that you need M/T, Hoosier, BFG, etc DR's. That's not to say others haven't had traction issues with 555R's, but at the 500 WHP level I found them to be an excellent all around compromise. People want to ride around in 600+ WHP cars and expect them to dead hook on the street. That's not realistic if you aren't a disciplined driver. You need to learn when and where you can feed your car throttle without going full Mustang.... Ummm I mean retard, and crashing into people.

I can tell you right now an Alpha platform is much more composed and capable of putting down power than an old SN95. I see no reason that the chassis shouldn't be able to keep most of its stock composer at 550-600 WHP on good street tires without having to drive too conservatively with it. Just remember that more power = easier tire spin. I think a GEN6 SS would make a very fun and ideal car for a max effort, stock bottomend, N/A LT1 build. A N/A 500-550 WHP would make this a very fun street car.
This is the absolute word. FBO and E85 the SS is a FANTASIC car, with lots of practice and proper throttle application I was doing 3.8 0 to 60 on stock tires and I have a M6. Very drivable and flexible and sounded pretty good with either CA cat deletes stock exhaust single tip, LT +cats stock exhaust single tip.

I DD my 4th gen with 555 fantastic tire.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JROC View Post

Kind of like a N/A 420-450 WHP made for a very fun GEN4. Not the fastest things on the street, but fun, enjoyable, fairly safe power. Trying to manage too much power by driving overly conservative can be less fun than just having a car with manageable power. JMO.
again, agree 100%, the LT1 can make more HP than it safe, fun or even applicable. So now I'm in less HP more drivable mode and that at least for me is an exhaust that sounds good (there is a sound clip of the LT + cat), no drone EVER, not overly loud, perfect linear throttle response (large cam and centri, 11.5 CR forged), a nice pull to 7200 rpm (large cam, decent springs, Manley valves).

I'm SO happy that I did not go with a 10 to 10.5 forged piston and more boost, it would just have made more unusable power and less mid-range torque and part throttle tip in....

4th gen Nitto 555R, converter, stock 3.23 gears, heads, headers, lid, tune, LS6 intake, cam, Borla… never loss a street fight, sure there are faster cars, but really how many do you see in the wild. We all know the above setup completely DD, even the wife could hop in and get some chips at the corner market...
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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Old 12-28-2019, 10:31 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black16 View Post
King , what is the safe limit for the stock fuel on 91 octane with a power adder. I just want to do this once as far as modifying the car. It is a daily driver for 6 months then goes into storage. The car is a great car to drive.but a little more power is always nice. Looking for a nice driver with more power.
About 7psi of boost. Basically any entry level supercharger kit with the largest pulley they offer. My opinion would be to buy whatever supercharger you can get the best deal on and apply the savings to a full LT4 fuel system upgrade. That will give you a little breathing room instead of running right near the stock fuel system limits.

My car drives like stock and could be driven across the country...there is no compromise with the mods I have selected. I simply spent the money on fueling so I could run pump or E85. I only run about 8-9psi, but the E85 and extra timing makes a significant difference in power. My guess is probably 60-70whp over 91. I dyno'd 600whp in 5th gear on lower timing. 6th gear pull with 2-3 degrees more timing it should be mid 600's on E. No headers, just primary cat delete pipes. When the NPP valves are closed it sounds almost stock...total sleeper.
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Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP
Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA
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