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Old 08-21-2023, 12:22 AM   #1
Conner0388
 
Drives: 2016 Chevy Camaro 2SS
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Brake pulsating in the front

I installed power stop rotors and pads on my 2016 camaro ss about 1 month ago when I moderately push the brake pedal above 50mph the pedal starts pulsating in the front of the car. The rear seems fine. I did the procedure to break in the new rotors and pads from powerstop. Don’t know if it’s a alignment issue, abs or if the rotors or pads are bad
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Old 08-21-2023, 05:18 AM   #2
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Sounds like to me that the rotors are already warped. Sometimes even new parts fail prematurely:( I ran the Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors one time and they warped so bad your molars would rattle out of your skull every time you hit the brakes:( I could be wrong but without actually being there a test driving it, I am just guessing.

Last edited by dmcmahan60; 08-21-2023 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 08-21-2023, 07:22 AM   #3
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rotors warped isn't usually the corret answer, it's uneven pad build up. I'd try rebedding them.
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Old 08-21-2023, 08:01 AM   #4
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Prior to getting rid of my car I was having major rotor issues shortly after replacing the rotors and pads with no hard driving on them.

I believe I was able to finally solve the issue just before I got rid of it by replacing the front hub. When relaxing the rotors again I noticed I was not able to get rid of the rust on the front wheel hubs. So I left everything apart, ordered wheel hubs and replaced them along with new rotors and a cheap street pad.

Just an fyi it’s super easy to replace when hubs after taking the rotors off. It’s just 3 bolts. You’ll need red loctite for the bolts and high temperature grease.

My theory on why this fixed my issue is once these cars get some age and mileage on them the hubs become way too rusty for the rotors to sit flat against them.
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Old 08-22-2023, 09:28 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by m6-lt1 View Post
My theory on why this fixed my issue is once these cars get some age and mileage on them the hubs become way too rusty for the rotors to sit flat against them.
Interesting.
Will be interesting to see when I pull my rotors.
So this was not a candidate for cleanup with a wire brush on a drill?
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Old 08-22-2023, 09:45 AM   #6
m6-lt1

 
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Interesting.
Will be interesting to see when I pull my rotors.
So this was not a candidate for cleanup with a wire brush on a drill?
Depends how rusty yours are. Mine were so rusty there were raised edges that the method you mentioned did not work. I also tried a roloc disk and that didn’t work either. I did see a video where a guy used a chisel on super rusty wheel hubs but I wasn’t about to spend an hour per hub chiseling the rust away when the each hub was $90 shipped and 3 bolts to remove and install.

One thing I’ll add is I never removed the rust off the hubs on my daily drivers and those cars did not give me issues at all with the brakes pulsating again shortly after rotor replacement (or many miles later). My 16 SS though was particularly sensitive. Maybe because it had more pistons and a greater surface area of piston to rotor contact versus single piston calipers on small sedans.
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Old 08-22-2023, 10:01 AM   #7
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I've never pulled rotors where there was a bubbling effect between the wheel and the rotor, or the rotor and the hub. That's a bit weird and sounds like galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals.

I do have your same experience of getting a pulsating pedal on a pretty low-mileage car which gets light use. Since my other cars don't get this, your alternate theory is definitely something I'll investigate.
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Old 08-22-2023, 10:19 AM   #8
m6-lt1

 
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I think the reason why mine rusted so bad is because the car wasn’t a daily driver, after washing the wheels/car, there were definitely times the car would just sit for a week plus. Because of what I went through with reoccurring brake pulsation I now don’t wash my wheels as much and when I do, I drive the car around the block to make sure all the trapped water gets out.
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Old 08-22-2023, 04:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m6-lt1 View Post
Prior to getting rid of my car I was having major rotor issues shortly after replacing the rotors and pads with no hard driving on them.

I believe I was able to finally solve the issue just before I got rid of it by replacing the front hub. When relaxing the rotors again I noticed I was not able to get rid of the rust on the front wheel hubs. So I left everything apart, ordered wheel hubs and replaced them along with new rotors and a cheap street pad.

Just an fyi it’s super easy to replace when hubs after taking the rotors off. It’s just 3 bolts. You’ll need red loctite for the bolts and high temperature grease.

My theory on why this fixed my issue is once these cars get some age and mileage on them the hubs become way too rusty for the rotors to sit flat against them.

Pity the next guy that has to replace wheel bearings. Use blue or orange locktite.
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Old 08-22-2023, 11:09 PM   #10
m6-lt1

 
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Pity the next guy that has to replace wheel bearings. Use blue or orange locktite.
False. According to the image in the thread below, if you google the gm part number for the thread locker it lists to use for the wheel hub, it’s red.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=516033
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Old 08-23-2023, 04:23 PM   #11
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https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=615068
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