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Old 12-27-2017, 06:15 PM   #1
EDFHOBBIES
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Beezl1's build thread low cost build thread! 100 hp for $2071.00

ATI 918856(w) Damper $325.00 (got lucky found listing on EBAY lost freight company selling new dampers)
ATI 916227 or Lingenfelter L220170709 115.00 (black Friday Summit)
GATES Greenback k080845HD 28.00 (amazon)
Rotofab $350.00 (black Friday)
Texas Speed Headers $599.00 no cats (black Friday TSP)
LS1 ATI 951499 damper bolt summit 9.75
NGK 6510 1 step cooler plugs 7.00 ebay
Tune $500.00 discounted since I've used him on 3 builds in past.

Search ebay for the ATI balancer with the above number.. the w means made or rebranded for whipple same balancer. The pulley is cheaper at summit I had 50.00 off 100.00 dollar order. The gates belts found on ebay.

Header directions:

1. REMOVE Neg battery cable
2. REMOVE Air intake
3. REMOVE COOLANT TANK
4. REMOVE DIPSTICK TUBE BOLT
4. REMOVE STOCK EXHAUST comes out through top
5. REMOVE PASS SIDE VALVE COVER (BLK COVER, COILS, VALVE COVER PCV HOSES)
6. REMOVE BLK COVER ONLY DRIVERS SIDE AND DISCONNECT UPPER BOLT CLOSER TO DRIVER ON STEERING SHAFT MOVE OUT OF THE WAY
7. I REMOVED STARTER SHIELD COVER THE BOLT HEAD TOUCHES BUNGS WHILE SLIDING HEADERS IN.
8. PASSENGER HEADERS GO IN THROUGH THE TOP
DRIVERS SIDE THROUGH BOTTOM
9. TEST FIT CONNECTION PIPES AND CUT
10. TIGHTEN UP CONNECTIONS AND REVERSE PROCEDURE DON'T FORGET DIPSTICK TUBE.


I made my own damper puller it was really low profile. No one had a tool instock that would fit to rent. I also made my own ATI damper installer.. a lot people say use the old bolt to draw it on NOT!



Damper installation. .

1. Remove intake
2. Remove fan Assembly ( may not have to with my tool) it's tight fit but it will come out with out losing coolant.. the quick disconnect on upper drivers side that's cools some type of oil does have to disconnect.)
3. Remove supercharger belt use 15mm socket or wrench
4. Remove the serpentine belt by pushing downward on the HYD damper arm slowly it like a compound bow hard to push them it releases fast at a certain point.
5. Remove the AC Belt if reusing the belt find a thin piece of metal that's ply able that you can walk it between the belt and AC pulley grooves turn the crank over by hand with a 15/16 socket while guiding the thin metal under the belt and grooves once the belt is on the metal and no grooves are seen the belt can be easily slipped off the ac pulley. The metal will wrap all the way around AC pulley.
6. Use a Strong Impact gun to remove OEM damper bolt or use a cheater bar and remove the starter ro install the tool that holds the flywheel from turning as you break free the damper bolt.
7. Install your puller I used my own.. I though it be better pressing against bolt vs. the threads inside the crankshaft I damage the threads about 20 years ago and never will use a gear or puller again on the threads of anything. I also drilled a hole in the bolt head so the point of my puller would stay straight.
8. It may be necessary to tap the end of the puller or damper with hammer the vibration somehow breaks ot loose an old trick I learned a long time ago. Normally I wouldn't hit on a damper but this will never see action nor was it hard enough to damage anything. You will know it breaks loose when you put wrench on the puller and the puller bolt is slightly loose.. now just turn the bolt that pulls the damper off.
9. Intstall the ATI hub onto the damper line up the dimples on the hub and damper use the bolts to draw it on evenly torque to ATI's directions
10. Oil/grease crank hub so the seal on the timing cover doesn't run dry line up keyway and push on beat you can evenly.
11. Use the old damper bolt to draw on the new ATI damper by cutting the flange head off and welding 7/16 x 4 inches long all thread stud to the end of the oem crank bolt that you cut. Next thread it into crankshaft all the way, next install a big washer that will fit the damper with out going inside hub and going up against crank otherwise you will not draw on the damper. Next thead on a 7/16 nUT on to the all thread against that washer and turn the nut drawing the balancer on. Seat it up all the way..
12. Remove your tool or a real damper installer and use the impact gun set to 250 ft lbs or use torque wrench and the flywheel tool to torque correctly.
13. Next install ac belt by turning crank and guiding it over the ac pulley
14. Install serpentine belt
15. Install the blower 9.17 ring with 3 bolts from the ATI damper 3/8 12pt apply blue loctite 242 torque to 28 ft lbs
16. install blower belt
17. Reinstall fans if you removed and air filter

All the shops I called wanted 4300 to 5000.00 for the parts and labor.

Scratch that Vengeance wants $7300
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Last edited by EDFHOBBIES; 05-05-2021 at 06:28 AM.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:54 PM   #2
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Thanks!
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:56 PM   #3
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This is an MVP level thread. Nice work.
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Old 12-27-2017, 09:14 PM   #4
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Good post. Could almost be a sticky.
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Old 12-28-2017, 03:49 AM   #5
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Thank you.
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Old 12-28-2017, 05:27 AM   #6
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Nice work, nice writeup. Those TS headers look sick!
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Old 12-28-2017, 06:28 AM   #7
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Thanks for the hard work on the writeup. Nicely done!
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Old 12-28-2017, 07:06 AM   #8
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Thank you they are a very good bargin I looked at the JBA 1 7/8 coated for 900 and the Australian company xforce w cats for 899.00 but at 599.00 I was impressed.
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Old 12-28-2017, 09:28 AM   #9
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:24 AM   #10
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Thanks for the write-up. I may well do the pulley swap in the spring.
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Old 12-28-2017, 04:32 PM   #11
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Nice job, thanks for the share!
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:31 AM   #12
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Nice write up. Was there a reason you chose to pull the valve cover? Obviously all header designs are a little different, but Kooks tells you to remove the starter. I’m wondering if this is a better option.

Is your car an M6 or A10? Looks like the pulley is pretty easy on these cars compared to say older Corvettes. I was leaning toward doing a blower pulley, but now I’m thinking a lower might be easier. And give me room to grow if I ever want to get more aggressive.
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWM.D. View Post
Nice write up. Was there a reason you chose to pull the valve cover? Obviously all header designs are a little different, but Kooks tells you to remove the starter. Iím wondering if this is a better option.

Is your car an M6 or A10? Looks like the pulley is pretty easy on these cars compared to say older Corvettes. I was leaning toward doing a blower pulley, but now Iím thinking a lower might be easier. And give me room to grow if I ever want to get more aggressive.
I took the passenger side valve cover off as well. i have two inch ARH and they fit absolutely perfect. The lower pulley is a better way to go in my mind. You get better belt wrap and maintain a balance on the drive pulley/idler/tensior track
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Old 12-29-2017, 11:24 AM   #14
EDFHOBBIES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWM.D. View Post
Nice write up. Was there a reason you chose to pull the valve cover? Obviously all header designs are a little different, but Kooks tells you to remove the starter. I’m wondering if this is a better option.

Is your car an M6 or A10? Looks like the pulley is pretty easy on these cars compared to say older Corvettes. I was leaning toward doing a blower pulley, but now I’m thinking a lower might be easier. And give me room to grow if I ever want to get more aggressive.
It was trial and error to gain clearance needed to fit. Basically You remove the stock exhaust.. On the pass side it was easier to remove the studs 2 by the cat so that that the tri manifolds would drop out easier. Then I slid headers from the Bottom but the new Aluminum brace and motor mount will not allow it along with another part.. So back to the top, I for sure new the Reservoir had to come out, then I took off the bracket for the heater hose by front of head. Then dropping the headers down I got it in almost all the way accept the bung touching the starter shield, then I got a little further and the Valve cover is so tall it wont let yo turn it to slide it down or rotate. There are no directions anywhere from anyone youtube nothing. The starter was not in the way on the TSP but the Starter shield bolt heads kept interfering with the bung for the 02 sensor.

I Had directions like this it would of been easy instead of scratching your head and thinking.. With these direction you can go straight to what needs to be done.

Talking with Matt Sorian and Rodney there are some times the motor mounts get loosen and the motor is lifted to clear. And the 2" kooks they did on Katytx06 or what ever his name is from 3 weeks ago was a bad set and the primary touched the steering shaft.

I have a M6

for $599 it Kicks the crap out of ARH, Beats the heck out of Kooks and Stainless works.
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