12-13-2019, 09:54 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2016 HyperBlue 2SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Madisonville, LA
Posts: 38
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Insight needed on my future build
I could use some insight from some of you all on my upcoming build. I have been reading alot in the fi section and my head is sort of spinning. Like another person who recently posted here, I am looking to go FI for fun. Not for track purposes or anything like that. Basically because I've wanted a supercharged car for years.
I am going with the following: Whipple ARH long system 2" no cats Mighty Mouse Wild catch can New plugs and wires Roto big gulp Lt4 high side and low side plus injectors Am I missing anything? I've read about replacing the crank seal or other comments about a dsx aux pump instead of the instant pump. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm trying to add hp but I also dont want this to be a time bomb. Me and the shop owner have decided the above things would be best for power but also somewhat of a safeguard for engine failure so to speak. All thoughts would be helpful. Thanks! |
12-14-2019, 09:23 AM | #2 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,345
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If you have an SS for sure the crank seal needs to have an LS seal installed its a perfect time since you will be swapping the balancer.
Voltage booster over a DSX.. I would think an extra pump(good to 800 rwhp is what Dave at DSX told me) over a voltage booster would win every time and is a piece of mind however, see option 3 below! If it was me I would just do the FORE return style now for the low side its an extra 1600 but its a cleaner install(no taping the tank) and you will never have to worry about the low side again! Find some drop in pistons later on, cam, and port injection and you making 1000 easy.. keeping it between the 600 and 650 mark will be safe and plenty of power with the TQ! 47k on our SS for 4 years now making 615 666 with the eforce! Only problem we had was the crank seal but, that info wasn't out back then lol! but yes the list looks good! Any reason your not doing the 2650?
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Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber |
12-14-2019, 09:46 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2016 HyperBlue 2SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Madisonville, LA
Posts: 38
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Thanks for the info.
I guess my question is with the target being around 600 wheel, why do I need anything else other than the lt4 fuel system? I really wanted the whipple and didnt even consider the 2650. |
12-14-2019, 10:04 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,795
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You don't need a 2650 for your power goals. Whipple is far more then you need at that power level with plenty of room to grow. If you you want to go above 15-16psi then the 2650 starts to make sense. The Whipple is efficient up to about 14psi on these engines, after that they start producing a lot more heat to make power, but they still make good power on out to 16psi. @ 8-10psi the MAT's will never even come close to being a issue.
Your fuel system selection is fine. And will support plenty of power. guys have been 750whp on the LT4 stuff with JMS booster.
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2016 NFG 1SS A8
Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA |
12-14-2019, 11:29 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Petersham MA
Posts: 4,749
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As King said, you're in good shape with the Whipple and LT4 fuel. It's a fantastic setup and can make your desired power level without breaking a sweat.
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2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors, LPE BB HPFP, 15” conversion 1059 WHP/944 WTQ, 9.48@150
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12-14-2019, 01:13 PM | #6 |
Dyno Show Queen LOL
Drives: 16 SS & 17 ZL1 Both Yellow Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston
Posts: 4,345
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His advise is spot on!
I'm only saying this because I said the same thing cory.. Go all out on each part that you need to upgrade. The hp bug is hungry and you can do it cheaper by doing it once even though it seems high initially. For example.. if you need a booster.. get a fore. If you need injectors get 45 or 65s instead of lt4s. If you can stop modifying at 600 hp then more power to ya! Good luck w build!
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Kong Ported 2650, Crawford Racing Port Injection, Weapon X 112mm Adapter, NW112mm TB, Livernois Ported LT4 Heads, Lingenfelter GT32 stealth cam, Haltech Elite, and Carbon by Trufiber |
12-14-2019, 05:28 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2016 1SS NFG A8 Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: 46804
Posts: 6,795
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Quote:
LT4 injectors LPE DI pump LT4 tank with JMS booster In the summer when DA is higher and boost is in the 8psi range, I can run full summer blend E85. When it cools off boost jumps up around 10psi, I need to mix down some, but by the time this happens pumps around here drop back to E66 for cold season and my fuel system and injector pulse widths are in range. If I mixed down to E50 I could probably run 11-12psi. These engines need octane with their compression, pump gas really limits the timing. I would rather run more timing over more boost. The engine is operating more efficiently that way.
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2016 NFG 1SS A8
Options-2SS Leather/NPP Perf. mods-Whipple 2.9/Fuel System/Flex Fuel/103mm TB/Rotofab Big Gulp/Cat Deletes/Corsa NPP Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA |
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12-15-2019, 01:27 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2016 HyperBlue 2SS Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Madisonville, LA
Posts: 38
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There is little to no ethanol near me and I do not want to run meth, so I will be limited to 91 or 93.
As for the comment on getting a zl1, I did the math and would lose more than I am willing to lose. I am sure later on that I will want more HP, but for now I am sure I'll be content with 6-650... |
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