[ZeroTwo]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

It was a lil chilly today but nice and sunny. Perfect day for some driving so I hit 40-85 to Greensboro and back to Raleigh. I think I will head to Charlotte next weekend if the weather is like it was today. Just having a ball with it but I'm ready to stop babying it.

I'm on i40 thru there a fair bit. I have to stop by Cary for work, I'll keep an eye out for a blue 1LE
I was caught out in the thick of it last year from Pilot Mountain thru Fancy Gap. Thankfully not in the 1LE, lol. Are all the new lots staying pretty empty down there? Curious if Hendrick is marking them up much.

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

OP if it makes you feel better, I just bought a 2022 and I cannot ever start the break-in period until March or April since I am in MN...yes it is killing me also.

Ouch!

[WiggyB]

Originally Posted by ZeroTwo

I'm on i40 thru there a fair bit. I have to stop by Cary for work, I'll keep an eye out for a blue 1LE
I was caught out in the thick of it last year from Pilot Mountain thru Fancy Gap. Thankfully not in the 1LE, lol. Are all the new lots staying pretty empty down there? Curious if Hendrick is marking them up much.



Ouch!

Put it this way I went up to Woodbridge Va and got mines. Hendricks had a 1SS 1LE in Greensboro and I got the 2SS 1LE for 8k cheaper. Lots are empty and they are pocket snatching........

[Blackmonba6Gen]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

OP if it makes you feel better, I just bought a 2022 and I cannot ever start the break-in period until March or April since I am in MN...yes it is killing me also. I always follow it and limit RPM and don't use cruise, change gears RPM often, and do not excessively idle.

does it actually make a difference? IDK, but it is what GM engineers recommend so I do it.

+1 i am in the same boat as you! I can’t wait till those months come by

[ckt227]

Originally Posted by StreetRage320

OP if it makes you feel better, I just bought a 2022 and I cannot ever start the break-in period until March or April since I am in MN...yes it is killing me also. I always follow it and limit RPM and don't use cruise, change gears RPM often, and do not excessively idle.

does it actually make a difference? IDK, but it is what GM engineers recommend so I do it.

If you would like, I live in SW Florida. You can send the ZL1 down here for the winter for break in LOL. Nice car. I had a 2018 black ZL1 but sold it to get back into another 2019 C7 Grand Sport before the C8 came out. There were crazy incentives and discounts to get C7'S off the lots. Ordered a 2SS 1LE in Feb 2021 and got it end of August. Was going to keep the C7 but got 7k more than I paid in June of 2019. If I knew that was going to happen I would have ordered a red hot 2021/22 ZL1.

[Elite Engineering]

I see most are following the owners manual, and in this regard the instructions can likely end up with two things. #1 is oil consumption issues as the piston rings never had the driving needed to properly seat them. This takes place in the first few hundred miles. After app. 500 miles a hard glaze forms covering the crosshatch abrasive hone pattern we cut in order to abrade the rings into the shape of the cylinder walls. No, or nearly no seating occurs once the glaze forms and then only a disassembly and re-hone can it be given another chance. So look at these pictures to understand what occurs:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_4139_1_.JPG

Below shows the glaze:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating4.jpg

And an illustration of proper ring seating and improper:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating2.png

So in order to accomplish this you need to properly load the rings during both acceleration and deceleration to evenly load them. This is hit or miss if driven easily. In fact, these are the actual instructions from GM that the average consumer never see's:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag..._procedure.jpg

And the second thing that just astounds us engine builders is leaving that iron filing and debris filled initial oil in longer than 500 miles. Every mile after that is premature wear shortening engine life. And no, the oil filters on average can only filter out particles larger than 8-12 microns and most of this is smaller so it just keeps circulating and according to the industry studies, 70% plus of internal wear is from abrasive particulate matter smaller than 8 microns. Oil is cheap, why in the World anyone would leave it in is a mystery. The ONLY reason the factory states going that long before the first oil change is just like Ford and every other automaker. Today's car buyer does NOT want to have to schedule a service so soon after getting their new vehicle as it is not convenient. So when one automaker states you can go 1500 miles, the next states 2000! and on and on. Just like hardly anyone opens their hood outside of enthusiasts. Just the same reason they state 87 octane for the V6 and the v8 93....when both have the same 11.5:1 compression ratio. All has been determined by marketing analysis of the demographic they are targeting for a certain vehicle and power choice. The cost conscious wants the smaller engine and everything less expensive.

So, in closing, you can do as you please...you paid for the car, no one else, but this you can call any reputable engine builder and verify all. Sound advice.

Cheers!!

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

I see most are following the owners manual, and in this regard the instructions can likely end up with two things. #1 is oil consumption issues as the piston rings never had the driving needed to properly seat them. This takes place in the first few hundred miles. After app. 500 miles a hard glaze forms covering the crosshatch abrasive hone pattern we cut in order to abrade the rings into the shape of the cylinder walls. No, or nearly no seating occurs once the glaze forms and then only a disassembly and re-hone can it be given another chance. So look at these pictures to understand what occurs:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_4139_1_.JPG

Below shows the glaze:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating4.jpg

And an illustration of proper ring seating and improper:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating2.png

So in order to accomplish this you need to properly load the rings during both acceleration and deceleration to evenly load them. This is hit or miss if driven easily. In fact, these are the actual instructions from GM that the average consumer never see's:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag..._procedure.jpg

And the second thing that just astounds us engine builders is leaving that iron filing and debris filled initial oil in longer than 500 miles. Every mile after that is premature wear shortening engine life. And no, the oil filters on average can only filter out particles larger than 8-12 microns and most of this is smaller so it just keeps circulating and according to the industry studies, 70% plus of internal wear is from abrasive particulate matter smaller than 8 microns. Oil is cheap, why in the World anyone would leave it in is a mystery. The ONLY reason the factory states going that long before the first oil change is just like Ford and every other automaker. Today's car buyer does NOT want to have to schedule a service so soon after getting their new vehicle as it is not convenient. So when one automaker states you can go 1500 miles, the next states 2000! and on and on. Just like hardly anyone opens their hood outside of enthusiasts. Just the same reason they state 87 octane for the V6 and the v8 93....when both have the same 11.5:1 compression ratio. All has been determined by marketing analysis of the demographic they are targeting for a certain vehicle and power choice. The cost conscious wants the smaller engine and everything less expensive.

So, in closing, you can do as you please...you paid for the car, no one else, but this you can call any reputable engine builder and verify all. Sound advice.

Cheers!!

Interesting. I know I've seen something posted here on the forum from GM that 500 miles is the break in period, that you should keep it under 4K rpm during that time and that you should change the oil and filter after the first 500 miles. That's what I'm planning on doing when I finally get my 1LE.

This is what I saw.
https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam...tion-guide.pdf

Doesn't say not to exceed 4K rpm after 500 miles, just to check the oil regularly until 1,500 miles as it might use oil during this period.

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

Went for a nice ride from Raleigh to Greensboro and took my daughter to lunch (she's in school at UNCG). The ride was calm and smooth but man does the breakin period suck. Took a lot for me not to just get in her 1 time just because. Some young cat in a honda tried me and I just took that blow in stride.

Seems like I'm never going to get to 1500 miles. How did you guys ever fight the urges?

I bet. I'm going to hate the break in period when I finally get my 1LE too. Based on what I've read it looks like the actual break in period is 500 miles in terms of staying below 4K rpm. See my post above.

[GONIF]

What I have done with the 6 New Camaro's is , always warm it up first. Than drive it normally keeping it under 5000 rpms, then change the oil with Mobil one European formula in the correct weight at 2000 miles ,and change the diff and trans fluid at the same time with Redline . Never had a problem in 30 years or had a car that ate oil. When you see what comes out of the trans and diff you will understand . I also have the oil sent out to be analyzed every third oil change , and I never run the oil more than 3500 miles.
Going to do the same thing again when I get my 2022 1LE .

[HI RPM]

Originally Posted by GONIF

What I have done with the 6 New Camaro's is , always warm it up first. Than drive it normally keeping it under 5000 rpms, then change the oil with Mobil one European formula in the correct weight at 2000 miles ,and change the diff and trans fluid at the same time with Redline . Never had a problem in 30 years or had a car that ate oil. When you see what comes out of the trans and diff you will understand . I also have the oil sent out to be analyzed every third oil change , and I never run the oil more than 3500 miles.
Going to do the same thing again when I get my 2022 1LE .

I'm with you on initially dropping the engine/trans/diff oil all at the same time.

Somewhere between 500-1500 miles seams about right to me.

I think you can go quite a bit longer on the oil change intervals after that though. Say at least 5,000 miles.

Just my thoughts, of course changing it sooner does no harm.

[ZPirate]

Originally Posted by GONIF

What I have done with the 6 New Camaro's is , always warm it up first. Than drive it normally keeping it under 5000 rpms, then change the oil with Mobil one European formula in the correct weight at 2000 miles ,and change the diff and trans fluid at the same time with Redline . Never had a problem in 30 years or had a car that ate oil. When you see what comes out of the trans and diff you will understand . I also have the oil sent out to be analyzed every third oil change , and I never run the oil more than 3500 miles.
Going to do the same thing again when I get my 2022 1LE .

I'm with you on warming up the car. I always warm up my cars first before driving them hard, even after break in. And I have also switched my crankcase oil as well as the transmission fluid and differential oil to Redline products.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

Went for a nice ride from Raleigh to Greensboro and took my daughter to lunch (she's in school at UNCG). The ride was calm and smooth but man does the breakin period suck. Took a lot for me not to just get in her 1 time just because. Some young cat in a honda tried me and I just took that blow in stride.

Seems like I'm never going to get to 1500 miles. How did you guys ever fight the urges?

My engine had 350 miles when Hennessey did their work and dyno'd the crap out it, so you shouldn't be concerned with yours.

[WiggyB]

Originally Posted by Elite Engineering

I see most are following the owners manual, and in this regard the instructions can likely end up with two things. #1 is oil consumption issues as the piston rings never had the driving needed to properly seat them. This takes place in the first few hundred miles. After app. 500 miles a hard glaze forms covering the crosshatch abrasive hone pattern we cut in order to abrade the rings into the shape of the cylinder walls. No, or nearly no seating occurs once the glaze forms and then only a disassembly and re-hone can it be given another chance. So look at these pictures to understand what occurs:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...MG_4139_1_.JPG

Below shows the glaze:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating4.jpg

And an illustration of proper ring seating and improper:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag...g_seating2.png

So in order to accomplish this you need to properly load the rings during both acceleration and deceleration to evenly load them. This is hit or miss if driven easily. In fact, these are the actual instructions from GM that the average consumer never see's:
https://hosting.photobucket.com/imag..._procedure.jpg

And the second thing that just astounds us engine builders is leaving that iron filing and debris filled initial oil in longer than 500 miles. Every mile after that is premature wear shortening engine life. And no, the oil filters on average can only filter out particles larger than 8-12 microns and most of this is smaller so it just keeps circulating and according to the industry studies, 70% plus of internal wear is from abrasive particulate matter smaller than 8 microns. Oil is cheap, why in the World anyone would leave it in is a mystery. The ONLY reason the factory states going that long before the first oil change is just like Ford and every other automaker. Today's car buyer does NOT want to have to schedule a service so soon after getting their new vehicle as it is not convenient. So when one automaker states you can go 1500 miles, the next states 2000! and on and on. Just like hardly anyone opens their hood outside of enthusiasts. Just the same reason they state 87 octane for the V6 and the v8 93....when both have the same 11.5:1 compression ratio. All has been determined by marketing analysis of the demographic they are targeting for a certain vehicle and power choice. The cost conscious wants the smaller engine and everything less expensive.

So, in closing, you can do as you please...you paid for the car, no one else, but this you can call any reputable engine builder and verify all. Sound advice.

Cheers!!

Very sound advice and that was my thinking on the oil change at 500. I will actually change them all out as others have stated.

[hakank14]

Yeah man, the break-in period definitely sucks. I'm currently around 370 miles, so getting close to the 500 mark when I plan to change the oil. Patience is a virtue I guess. This is my second Camaro, so I went through the break-in 4 years ago as well, with the A8. The new one is an M6. Gonna put the skip shift eliminator on hopefully sometime this week. Enjoy your new ride!

[JSH]

Originally Posted by WiggyB

How did you guys ever fight the urges?

Modified and dyno'd it at 350 miles.