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Old 11-10-2021, 11:19 PM   #1
Ninjor
 
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Track Mods/Camber and Warranty

Howdy,

I just put my name on a 2022 2SS 1LE that I plan on taking to the track a lot. I plan on keeping it very stock except for a few things, granted it won't void the warranty.

I am coming from a BRZ in which I ran -3.5 F -2.5 R and stock suspension I would just destroy the front outsides of my tires understeering through turns. Is this a thing with the Camaro?

Does anyone run those Vorshlag camber plates? Will they void the warranty? Also, I'd assume running a square tire setup would be beneficial on this car?
I would also like to get an APR Big Wing. Does anyone have experience with wings? It worth it?

Thanks! Super excited to start my Camaro Journey!
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Old 11-11-2021, 12:26 AM   #2
N Camarolina

 
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The OEM set up will enable up to ~ -2.5 camber up front. How much is needed seems to depend on the track (and maybe driving style?), as some guys are still wearing the outside shoulders despite ~2.5. Most of my days have been at VIR, where I typically am pulling between 1.1 and 1.3G in the corners, but only 2 or 3 corners with heavy trail braking. I'm only using the -2.0 Camber (factory recommended track setting) and it seems to result in even tire wear for me.

The SS 1LE is pretty well balanced. While it will tend to understeer on corner entry if you straight-line brake, you can easily get considerably more rotation by trail-braking (enough so that it's possible to make the rear step out).

I'd suggest you start out with -2.0 or 2.2 in front and see what you get after your first weekend or two. If your planning on using the the OEM tires as duel purpose for daily driving and track, others here have said you won't want to do more than -2.0 in front, otherwise you'll wear out the inside shoulders prematurely.
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Old 11-11-2021, 07:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjor View Post
Howdy,

I just put my name on a 2022 2SS 1LE that I plan on taking to the track a lot. I plan on keeping it very stock except for a few things, granted it won't void the warranty.

I am coming from a BRZ in which I ran -3.5 F -2.5 R and stock suspension I would just destroy the front outsides of my tires understeering through turns. Is this a thing with the Camaro?

Does anyone run those Vorshlag camber plates? Will they void the warranty? Also, I'd assume running a square tire setup would be beneficial on this car?
I would also like to get an APR Big Wing. Does anyone have experience with wings? It worth it?
Thanks! Super excited to start my Camaro Journey!
ALMOST Everyone will tell you that ALOT of negative camber on the street and you will get excessive tire wear. In REALITY, the thing that MOSTLY results in excessive tire wear is too much Toe IN and Toe Out. On the street settings I run -3.1 degrees negative FRONT camber and -2.4 degrees REAR camber. BUT I also run my Toe Out Toe IN settings NEUTRAL. I use Vorshlag Camber Plates and I adjust them to -3.6 degrees front camber when I go to the track. When I was running Street tires on my car for both street and track, I got 20K miles and roughly 10 track days out of my MICHELIN 4S 305 30 19 tires with NO UNEVEN wear. I rotated them every 3K miles front to rear.

Having also owned an ZL1 1LE , I can tell you my 2019 SS2 1LE is much easier on tires than my Zl1 was which I am sure has something to do with less weight over the front end of the car. The SS also has better balance than my ZL1 1LE did and that results in NEUTRAL handling with my square set up on wheels and tires.
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Old 11-11-2021, 09:44 AM   #4
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Technically, camber plates should only void the warranty for something closely related to them, like the upper strut bearing. So for instance, if your engine blows up on track it should still be covered. In the real world, it depends on how hard a time a service writer wants to give you. That said, it's not that hard to put the stock plates back on before taking it for a service call if you had to. In general, though, I don't think you'd have any problems with warranty coverage.

I think whether you need camber plates or not for your use will depend a lot on the tires you're using. I'm running -2.7 front and -1.9 rear on my stock SS 1LE (all in with the stock hardware). Toe is 0 front 1/16" rear. For track duty with the stock Goodyear SC3 tires, that seems to be about right for even wear. For tires like the Falken RT660 that I use for autocross duty, I could use more camber (I can't mod the camber plates or rear toe links because class rules require me to stay stock). For Yokohama A052s, I would need more camber.

So it depends a lot on your tire setup. Also, if you run a lot more front camber you could probably also benefit from aftermarket rear toe links to allow more rear camber (stock toe adjustment is what limits the rear camber you can dial in with the stock hardware). If you're getting aftermarket wheels, a square setup with 11s is probably good, 12s is better but you should research front fitment for that much width. Honestly, though, before you start throwing parts at the car I'd align it to max settings stock and go do a track day first. See what changes you want to make after you've tried it. You might be surprised how good this car is right off the showroom floor.
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Old 11-11-2021, 09:53 AM   #5
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Rear Toe Links

Quote:
Originally Posted by Msquared View Post
Technically, camber plates should only void the warranty for something closely related to them, like the upper strut bearing. So for instance, if your engine blows up on track it should still be covered. In the real world, it depends on how hard a time a service writer wants to give you. That said, it's not that hard to put the stock plates back on before taking it for a service call if you had to. In general, though, I don't think you'd have any problems with warranty coverage.

I think whether you need camber plates or not for your use will depend a lot on the tires you're using. I'm running -2.7 front and -1.9 rear on my stock SS 1LE (all in with the stock hardware). Toe is 0 front 1/16" rear. For track duty with the stock Goodyear SC3 tires, that seems to be about right for even wear. For tires like the Falken RT660 that I use for autocross duty, I could use more camber (I can't mod the camber plates or rear toe links because class rules require me to stay stock). For Yokohama A052s, I would need more camber.

So it depends a lot on your tire setup. Also, if you run a lot more front camber you could probably also benefit from aftermarket rear toe links to allow more rear camber (stock toe adjustment is what limits the rear camber you can dial in with the stock hardware). If you're getting aftermarket wheels, a square setup with 11s is probably good, 12s is better but you should research front fitment for that much width. Honestly, though, before you start throwing parts at the car I'd align it to max settings stock and go do a track day first. See what changes you want to make after you've tried it. You might be surprised how good this car is right off the showroom floor.
You make some great points. In regards to getting MORE than -2 degrees camber of the REAR of the car, as you mentioned, you will need adjustable toe links. I used the following:

https://www.splparts.com/products/ca...c-lockout.html

Our cars are HEAVY so they LOVE alot of negative camber ESPECIALLY if you are running slicks on a track setup. The BEST mod though is seat time. NinJor , I would start out as well with stock parts and as you become a more skilled driver THEN is the time to start adding go fast handling parts.

For a track setup it is hard to beat APEX EC7 18 x 11 wheels with a 305 slick on all four corners. You can do this WITHOUT tire poke. On an SS I havent seen a 12 inch wheel set up that DOESNT have some tire poke at the top of the wheel well especially on the front. I would advise against that because you can really beat up the sides of you car with debris coming off the tires if they dont stay within the wheel wells. ZL1's have a little more room on the front fenders than our SS's do.
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2019 SS 1LE BIG NA A10
Eagles Canyon Raceway 2.7 CCW Below
https://youtu.be/c9M5UHDftcA
4-15-23 at SCCA TT U1 Class

MEGA Thread on THIS car:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602092

Retired Cars BELOW:
1973 Camaro, 1969 Camaro, 1969 Camaro SS RS
2010 Camaro SS with 1000HP F1R, 2019 ZL1 1LE A10

Last edited by sr71bb; 11-11-2021 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 11-11-2021, 10:09 AM   #6
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im at -3.5 f -2.5 r only dont 1 auto x and one track day yet on that setup so far so good


i have full spl parts kit mcs 1 way coilovers and vorshlag camber plates so im definately not stock haha
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Old 11-11-2021, 11:05 AM   #7
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These cars need something, but less than you think. Mine is still embarrassingly stock, but with a few key upgrades that have tuned it into a track terror.

1) Alignment
2) Brake Fluid
3) Brake Pads
4) Square set up
5) ZLE subframe bushings

I'm still on stock compound SC3 and my alignment is -2.5 and -1.8 and can easily run at the front of local A group pace at trackdays.

Ken
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Old 11-11-2021, 11:30 AM   #8
Msquared

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sr71bb View Post
The BEST mod though is seat time. NinJor , I would start out as well with stock parts and as you become a more skilled driver THEN is the time to start adding go fast handling parts.
I certainly agree with this as general advice. However, this OP sounds like he has been flogging a BRZ at track days for a while, judging by his first post, so I'm guessing he's got some seat time. I'm it's worth getting some experience with his SS 1LE in stock form with a good alignment before he decides what parts to add. The 1LE is probably better out of the box than most BRZ and Miata drivers expect. It's not your average pony car.
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Old 11-11-2021, 01:24 PM   #9
Ninjor
 
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All very good information thank you! The first thing I planned on doing was getting it ceramic coated/ clear bra and some apex EC-R7 18x11’s square with some maxxis RC-1s as that is what Speedsf time attack uses here in norcal. Will definitely try the max stock camber settings first. I honestly could care less about bad wear on my street tires. I went through about 3 sets of tires this past year on the BRZ. I was lucky to get 4 days on a set.
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Old 11-11-2021, 03:43 PM   #10
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apex EC-R7 18x11’s square with some maxxis RC-1s as that is what Speedsf time attack uses here in norcal.
I know Maxxis says they can be mounted on an 11" rim, but will 275 really be enough tire? I'd ask for an exception to run a 315 nankang, yok, falken 200tw tire or maybe the nankang ar1 in a 295.
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Old 11-11-2021, 03:55 PM   #11
Ninjor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scargoes View Post
I know Maxxis says they can be mounted on an 11" rim, but will 275 really be enough tire? I'd ask for an exception to run a 315 nankang, yok, falken 200tw tire or maybe the nankang ar1 in a 295.
Dang didn't realize 275 was as big as they went. Will have to try something TW61+
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Old 01-10-2022, 11:05 PM   #12
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Ninojr,

Hey man, saw your other posts and noticed you're new and nearby. I live in Roseville and ran about 10 events last year at Thill in all configurations.

I’m going back out to Thill on 1/29 with Turn8 but I’ve also attended events with SpeedSF, OnGrid, and Corsa club. I’ll be visiting Sonoma and Laguna this year too.

Come out and we can track together!

Few thoughts…

-Get the track alignment and go as negative camber as you can. I’m at -2.0f and -1.4r. Even with near zero toe, the front outside edge wears faster. I’m going max oem and will reassess then. I’m hoping for -2.7f and -2r (might not be possible but trying nonetheless)
-Swap to Castrol SRF
-Install ZL1 rock guards before tracking (save your paint)
-Change rear diff fluid (part of break in)
-Run stock tires first. They’re surprisingly good in all but wet conditions.
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Old 01-14-2022, 02:43 PM   #13
Ninjor
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabjbr View Post
Ninojr,

Hey man, saw your other posts and noticed you're new and nearby. I live in Roseville and ran about 10 events last year at Thill in all configurations.

I’m going back out to Thill on 1/29 with Turn8 but I’ve also attended events with SpeedSF, OnGrid, and Corsa club. I’ll be visiting Sonoma and Laguna this year too.

Come out and we can track together!

Few thoughts…

-Get the track alignment and go as negative camber as you can. I’m at -2.0f and -1.4r. Even with near zero toe, the front outside edge wears faster. I’m going max oem and will reassess then. I’m hoping for -2.7f and -2r (might not be possible but trying nonetheless)
-Swap to Castrol SRF
-Install ZL1 rock guards before tracking (save your paint)
-Change rear diff fluid (part of break in)
-Run stock tires first. They’re surprisingly good in all but wet conditions.
Awesome, definitely, sounds good!

I just picked her up last friday and have been trying to put miles on her. Have done my first oil change and am at 900 miles. Trying to get it to 1500 for the track prep services. Been cruising around the twisties in Napa and I absolutely love this thing, its an animal. I cant wait to get it on track here in a few weeks.
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