[KingLT1]

You don't really need a larger blower then a 1500sl unless you plan on going north of 900whp. Again it's comparable to Prochargers D1.

The LT4 blower isn't making 1k whp...just because 1 shop did it with the kitchen sink thrown at it doesn't mean that shop would send customers cars out that way. They even said they themselves.

The ECS might make less torque because it's not spinning hard since it's quite a bit bigger head unit then a P1 Procharger.

[LT1ornothing]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You don't really need a larger blower then a 1500sl unless you plan on going north of 900whp. Again it's comparable to Prochargers D1.

The LT4 blower isn't making 1k whp...just because 1 shop did it with the kitchen sink thrown at it doesn't mean that shop would send customers cars out that way. They even said they themselves.

The ECS might make less torque because it's not spinning hard since it's quite a bit bigger head unit then a P1 Procharger.

You are right, most cases I see run either the entry 7 lbs set up or they change cog and belt to set it to the 10 lbs range with lt4 fueling. I haven't seen an ecs system on the full tilt cog set up, but I'd like to, they claim 15 lbs.

[Bomicino]

Wnta1ss. Thanks for sharing your experience. I believe they say stock kit on stock car was 550 wheel. You going high 10s sounds great at that power level. I too am curious why you dont run their kit anymore.
If it was trouble free, id assume running around with 550-650 on LT4 fuel and a low side would be good to go for a while. If it pops or one is ready for the shortblock, a pulley change and port injection would max out the 1500 shy of 900, be efficient and responsive.
I am curious if belt slip becomes an issue at higher blower speeds. Not at the cogged pulleys obviously, but the serp. One driving it.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You don't really need a larger blower then a 1500sl unless you plan on going north of 900whp. Again it's comparable to Prochargers D1.

The LT4 blower isn't making 1k whp...just because 1 shop did it with the kitchen sink thrown at it doesn't mean that shop would send customers cars out that way. They even said they themselves.

The ECS might make less torque because it's not spinning hard since it's quite a bit bigger head unit then a P1 Procharger.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by wheelman89

Thanks for your feedback, it is exactly the type of thing I was looking for. What was your impression of the kit after it was installed and tuned properly? How was the power delivery? What made you decide to take it off?

Kit was working alright when I removed it. Power delivery is that power builds with rpm, because boost is low at 3000rpm then continues to rise with rpm. Reason for removal was to make long runs. I learned after my purchase that LT1s are built with tight to really tight ring gaps, making them sensitive to heat. Pushing them too much can break pistons. Not all engines have the same gaps (one guy .015, another guy .007) so it's really a crapshoot how far you can push yours. I took the risk on a 1/4 mile, but chose not to risk going WOT for a longer distance with the blower on my stock engine.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by Bomicino

Wnta1ss. Thanks for sharing your experience. I believe they say stock kit on stock car was 550 wheel. You going high 10s sounds great at that power level. I too am curious why you dont run their kit anymore.
If it was trouble free, id assume running around with 550-650 on LT4 fuel and a low side would be good to go for a while. If it pops or one is ready for the shortblock, a pulley change and port injection would max out the 1500 shy of 900, be efficient and responsive.
I am curious if belt slip becomes an issue at higher blower speeds. Not at the cogged pulleys obviously, but the serp. One driving it.

Yeah blue car read 550 at ECS. He's a member here, think he had reported low-11 at 126 with base kit and stock exhaust. Later he added some more mods.

Jackshaft drive is the question on how far can this be pushed. Guy in Georgia with cam/pistons/headers/methanol/e85 turned his up to 829hp as I recall. Vortech now sells a 10-rib dedicated drive system which should be able to max out the 1500SL, priced little over a grand I think.

[stormtrooperSS1le]

I am planning on going with the ecs kit, drop ins, stage 2 blower cam and ported heads with a clutch over the winter. Hoping 800-850

Dsx aux pump lt4 pump lt4 injectors on 93

[Bomicino]

Where are you getting it tuned? Speed Inc tunes mine, and I have the lt4 pump and injectors ready to go. They told me to get the DSX as well, but said i wont be able to be on E anymore, even with an 8 pound pulley combo. Can that fuel combo support 800+ on 93? If so, and E is 30+% more volume, shouldnt it support mid 600s? (My target)

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Bomicino

Where are you getting it tuned? Speed Inc tunes mine, and I have the lt4 pump and injectors ready to go. They told me to get the DSX as well, but said i wont be able to be on E anymore, even with an 8 pound pulley combo. Can that fuel combo support 800+ on 93? If so, and E is 30+% more volume, shouldnt it support mid 600s? (My target)

LT4 high side plus DSX low can definitely run a good amount of E at mid-600’s WHP. Assuming you have a cam, that combo can do 800 on 93.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Bomicino

Where are you getting it tuned? Speed Inc tunes mine, and I have the lt4 pump and injectors ready to go. They told me to get the DSX as well, but said i wont be able to be on E anymore, even with an 8 pound pulley combo. Can that fuel combo support 800+ on 93? If so, and E is 30+% more volume, shouldnt it support mid 600s? (My target)

E85 require 30% more volume but You don't have to run full E to gain the benefits from it. E40 is 100-101 octane, E50 is 103-104-octane, E60 is 105-106 octane, E85 is 109-110 octane. All you need to do is mix it 50/50 E/pump 93 to get around 50% E. Not that hard and you just greatly reduced fuel system demand and still have high octane fuel. Having a flex fuel sensor makes it so ****ing easy a caveman can do it. Most complaints you hear about mixing E comes from those that are hard tuned for E with no sensor and they need to hit E80 or whatever they are tuned on in order for the fueling to remain on point.

I did a back to back comparison between my 3.5 and 3.25 pulley.

With my 3.25 pulley I am seeing 11psi peak when it's 50 degrees outside. With E40 fuel and 18 degrees timing the car traps about 1-1.5 mph higher in the 1/8th vs the 3.5 pulley(9psi peak), E65 fuel, and 20 degrees timing.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

E85 require 30% more volume but You don't have to run full E to gain the benefits from it. E40 is 100-101 octane, E50 is 103-104-octane, E60 is 105-106 octane, E85 is 109-110 octane. All you need to do is mix it 50/50 E/pump 93 to get around 50% E. Not that hard and you just greatly reduced fuel system demand and still have high octane fuel. Having a flex fuel sensor makes it so ****ing easy a caveman can do it. Most complaints you hear about mixing E comes from those that are hard tuned for E with no sensor and they need to hit E80 or whatever they are tuned on in order for the fueling to remain on point.

I did a back to back comparison between my 3.5 and 3.25 pulley.

With my 3.25 pulley I am seeing 11psi peak when it's 50 degrees outside. With E40 fuel and 18 degrees timing the car traps about 1-1.5 mph higher in the 1/8th vs the 3.5 pulley(9psi peak), E65 fuel, and 20 degrees timing.

Mixing to E50 here and it was worth 90 HP over 93 octane at the same boost level on my build. If I had more E with me at the dyno I would have tried E65-70 or more. But to Kings point, you don’t need full E to see some fantastic benefits. And mixing to ~E50 is so easy.

[RageWorx]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Yeah blue car read 550 at ECS. He's a member here, think he had reported low-11 at 126 with base kit and stock exhaust. Later he added some more mods.

Jackshaft drive is the question on how far can this be pushed. Guy in Georgia with cam/pistons/headers/methanol/e85 turned his up to 829hp as I recall. Vortech now sells a 10-rib dedicated drive system which should be able to max out the 1500SL, priced little over a grand I think.

Yup that's my Hyper Blue SS I have their first kit. The track numbers were a completely bone stock car with the base ECS system.

Install is strait forward and its nice to not mess with the stock balancer big plus .... long term durability has been great so far holding up well.

Honestly I like the simple design of this kit for what it is (low price) very well thought out and robust with a Large IC (system runs very cool temps).

As far as power on low boost that system is very efficient (1500SL is a great headunit as is the Procharger units ) with room to grow (even though not 10 rib it has short belt length with good wrap and then the Cog setup)

I'm making great power on 5.5 lbs only and trapping 129 in the 10s 1/4 mile (#30 on 1/4 mile fast list#5) which isn't too bad. I plan on adding a cam setup and more boost in the future which should be fun with this kit and provide plenty of ceiling.

On a Stock LT1 you'll run out of piston usually before you run out of boost potential with this kit but around 15 psi is doable.... if you have bigger dreams then yeah the 10 rib Ysi setup would be sick.

Another thing I never really see mentioned with this kit (because most focus on outright power) vs it's competitors is the quick response of the kit because of its unique drive setup. Between the short belt and Cog setup it makes it very snappy feeling. And as someone who likes to take some turns with their 6th gen this is something I appreciate. If you don't need to run a ton of boost with a big cube engine this is just a great kit.

-Jon

[laynlo15]

So with that kit it builds boost quicker then the Procharger? That means you really may not need a stall converter to launch the car as you normally do with the P1 or D1 for quicker times. That's a big savings for most who don't care about make big HP.

[wheelman89]

Originally Posted by RageWorx

Yup that's my Hyper Blue SS I have their first kit. The track numbers were a completely bone stock car with the base ECS system.

Install is strait forward and its nice to not mess with the stock balancer big plus .... long term durability has been great so far holding up well.

Honestly I like the simple design of this kit for what it is (low price) very well thought out and robust with a Large IC (system runs very cool temps).

As far as power on low boost that system is very efficient (1500SL is a great headunit as is the Procharger units ) with room to grow (even though not 10 rib it has short belt length with good wrap and then the Cog setup)

I'm making great power on 5.5 lbs only and trapping 129 in the 10s 1/4 mile (#30 on 1/4 mile fast list#5) which isn't too bad. I plan on adding a cam setup and more boost in the future which should be fun with this kit and provide plenty of ceiling.

On a Stock LT1 you'll run out of piston usually before you run out of boost potential with this kit but around 15 psi is doable.... if you have bigger dreams then yeah the 10 rib Ysi setup would be sick.

Another thing I never really see mentioned with this kit (because most focus on outright power) vs it's competitors is the quick response of the kit because of its unique drive setup. Between the short belt and Cog setup it makes it very snappy feeling. And as someone who likes to take some turns with their 6th gen this is something I appreciate. If you don't need to run a ton of boost with a big cube engine this is just a great kit.

-Jon

What fueling upgrades did have you added?