MOST50 Alternative - Page 4

BLUPASTU · 01-11-2019, 11:40 AM

A quick question guys - I spliced into my factory amp outputs leading to an LC7i then to a mids/highs amp, then a bass amp feeding two 12's. I have had this system in place for a month with no issues at all until today. Suddenly, sometimes when I start the car I get the notorious engine sound in the subs ordeal. It's not every time, but it's very annoying. I can't think of why it would suddenly appear after a month with no issues. I pulled the end harness on the factory amp and that stopped it, but am curious if this has been anyone's experience and maybe someone knows why it wasn't an issue for a month. Thanks!

JaxChris · 01-11-2019, 01:15 PM

Center and sub on all the integration modules are just a simple summing of the flat input it receives from the bus.

drfeelgood · 01-11-2019, 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUPASTU

A quick question guys - I spliced into my factory amp outputs leading to an LC7i then to a mids/highs amp, then a bass amp feeding two 12's. I have had this system in place for a month with no issues at all until today. Suddenly, sometimes when I start the car I get the notorious engine sound in the subs ordeal. It's not every time, but it's very annoying. I can't think of why it would suddenly appear after a month with no issues. I pulled the end harness on the factory amp and that stopped it, but am curious if this has been anyone's experience and maybe someone knows why it wasn't an issue for a month. Thanks!

NOt sure why it was happening on and off. HSould have been happening from the beginning. The PAC, and NavTV units would have prevented that.

JaxChris · 01-11-2019, 11:14 PM

Watch the voltage on the dash during longer drives. Do you occasionally find your system dropping close to or below 12v? I had a bad chassis ground that caused intermittent strained & failed hot starts due to irregular resistance when the car was hot. If I had a sound system before that was fixed, I would've expected to hear whine or other noise skipping off of the charging system as the battery ran low. It was bad enough that it started shorting my instrument cluster.

Once the car cooled down, resistance went back to normal and charging system worked as expected again without noise. If you find your voltage isn't consistent on 1-2 hour drives and there are random low points, take your car to the dealer (covered under powertrain because of lack of starting) and get them to identify which ground is faulty so they can replace it.

BLUPASTU · 01-14-2019, 05:25 PM

JaxChris - nice info, thanks! I have noticed some strange charging, wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not. It has never failed to start, but I have seen it mostly above 14v, sometimes 15v. Then I'll look down and it's at 13v. I have heard it has smart charging, so maybe that's all it is. I don't think I've ever seen it at 12v, but you bet I'll be watching closer now.

It would have been great to get the PAC or NavTV, but funds prevented it. I will get the PAC eventually...

JaxChris · 01-16-2019, 09:40 AM

Yes, there is a controller that will lower the output when the system is at capacity and only sends a maintenance charge. But if you see extremely low voltages or failed/hard/strained starts when very hot or very cold, then you could have an intermittent grounding issue. Not saying it is definitely the answer, but I did have it and it's a known issue with a lack of QC on the grounding cables on these cars.

oOKhanhOo · 01-16-2019, 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JaxChris

Yes, there is a controller that will lower the output when the system is at capacity and only sends a maintenance charge. But if you see extremely low voltages or failed/hard/strained starts when very hot or very cold, then you could have an intermittent grounding issue. Not saying it is definitely the answer, but I did have it and it's a known issue with a lack of QC on the grounding cables on these cars.

Did they tell you exactly where the problem with the grounding was at?

JaxChris · 01-21-2019, 02:17 PM

Yep. Here is everything done to resolve:
Replaced Starter Solenoid Cable pair due to high resistance when hot
Replaced G103 (Block to Radiator) due to high resistance when hot
Tightened G201
Tightened G121
Tightened G130

If you find trouble with hot restarts and you know your battery is good, then have the dealer let the car run idle for a few hours in the sun (bring it in with a full tank), they should then shut it off, refire the car, and find a collection of U codes signaling an issue with the wiring.

Eldi Z · 12-27-2021, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhyUMad1LE

So we now have three plug and play options w/o amplified chimes for the 2016-2018:

NAV-TV M650-GM ($850)
PAC AP4-GM61 ($390)
Axxess AX-DSP ($280) + Harness ($70) = ($350)

Anyone want to analyze the pros and cons? I was going to go with an LC7i but I might go for one of the last two options if it's worth it.

Bumping this one up again.
Are all these options OK with the 1SS (I repeat, 1 SS) 1LE Without the Bose system (that is found in the 2SS models).

Thanks for clarifying

SilverCamaroVert · 12-28-2021, 07:57 AM

No. These are for Bose systems only.

01-11-2019, 11:40 AM	#43
BLUPASTU Drives: 2018 Camaro 1SS Blue Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Kernersville, NC Posts: 8	A quick question guys - I spliced into my factory amp outputs leading to an LC7i then to a mids/highs amp, then a bass amp feeding two 12's. I have had this system in place for a month with no issues at all until today. Suddenly, sometimes when I start the car I get the notorious engine sound in the subs ordeal. It's not every time, but it's very annoying. I can't think of why it would suddenly appear after a month with no issues. I pulled the end harness on the factory amp and that stopped it, but am curious if this has been anyone's experience and maybe someone knows why it wasn't an issue for a month. Thanks! __________________ 2018 Camaro SS, CAI, Axle-back exhaust, BMR STB, E85 on the way!

01-14-2019, 05:25 PM	#47
BLUPASTU Drives: 2018 Camaro 1SS Blue Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Kernersville, NC Posts: 8	JaxChris - nice info, thanks! I have noticed some strange charging, wasn't sure if I was imagining it or not. It has never failed to start, but I have seen it mostly above 14v, sometimes 15v. Then I'll look down and it's at 13v. I have heard it has smart charging, so maybe that's all it is. I don't think I've ever seen it at 12v, but you bet I'll be watching closer now. It would have been great to get the PAC or NavTV, but funds prevented it. I will get the PAC eventually... __________________ 2018 Camaro SS, CAI, Axle-back exhaust, BMR STB, E85 on the way!

01-11-2019, 01:15 PM	#44
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	Center and sub on all the integration modules are just a simple summing of the flat input it receives from the bus.

01-11-2019, 11:14 PM	#46
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	Watch the voltage on the dash during longer drives. Do you occasionally find your system dropping close to or below 12v? I had a bad chassis ground that caused intermittent strained & failed hot starts due to irregular resistance when the car was hot. If I had a sound system before that was fixed, I would've expected to hear whine or other noise skipping off of the charging system as the battery ran low. It was bad enough that it started shorting my instrument cluster. Once the car cooled down, resistance went back to normal and charging system worked as expected again without noise. If you find your voltage isn't consistent on 1-2 hour drives and there are random low points, take your car to the dealer (covered under powertrain because of lack of starting) and get them to identify which ground is faulty so they can replace it.

01-16-2019, 09:40 AM	#48
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	Yes, there is a controller that will lower the output when the system is at capacity and only sends a maintenance charge. But if you see extremely low voltages or failed/hard/strained starts when very hot or very cold, then you could have an intermittent grounding issue. Not saying it is definitely the answer, but I did have it and it's a known issue with a lack of QC on the grounding cables on these cars.

01-21-2019, 02:17 PM	#50
JaxChris Drives: '16 2SS GD1 MX0 NPP F55 IO6 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Florida Posts: 1,298	Yep. Here is everything done to resolve: Replaced Starter Solenoid Cable pair due to high resistance when hot Replaced G103 (Block to Radiator) due to high resistance when hot Tightened G201 Tightened G121 Tightened G130 If you find trouble with hot restarts and you know your battery is good, then have the dealer let the car run idle for a few hours in the sun (bring it in with a full tank), they should then shut it off, refire the car, and find a collection of U codes signaling an issue with the wiring.

12-28-2021, 07:57 AM	#52
SilverCamaroVert Drives: 2019 LT3 RS Convertible Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: New Hampshire Posts: 126	No. These are for Bose systems only.

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