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Old 12-19-2021, 03:11 PM   #1
Tim M

 
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE
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Request: Any Good How to Build an LT1/4 Resources?

We are beginning to plan for our new powerplant for my 2018 SS 1LE-a mild 416 with LT4 blower.

Prefer to go into a project well read rather than learn from my mistakes!

Curious if anyone has leads on how-to-build-an-LT1/4 engine resources - likely there is quite a bit in common with LS models, wondered if there are any specific guides, etc.

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2021, 05:12 PM   #2
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If you're saying you planning to have a shop build a mild 416 with LT4 blower for you, I would start with Pray Performance. It seems like every engine he posts about is a 400+ inch stroker. I do not know what the site's sponsors offer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
We are beginning to plan for our new powerplant for my 2018 SS 1LE-a mild 416 with LT4 blower.

Prefer to go into a project well read rather than learn from my mistakes!

Curious if anyone has leads on how-to-build-an-LT1/4 engine resources - likely there is quite a bit in common with LS models, wondered if there are any specific guides, etc.

Thanks.
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2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 12-20-2021, 12:07 AM   #3
Tim M

 
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JSH: Apologies if not clear, we will be assembling the engine, not a shop. Great learning experience for the 16 year old assistant. Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2021, 02:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M View Post
JSH: Apologies if not clear, we will be assembling the engine, not a shop. Great learning experience for the 16 year old assistant. Thanks.
Tim,

The ABSOLUTE BEST engine builder in the business is LATE MODEL ENGINES (LME) out of houston texas, They build the BEST 416 based engines you will find .I would have your son binge watch their videos as a starting point. The build the highest HP LS based engines in the world that are known for their reliability as well. They have won NUMEROUS build off contests pitting them against all comers. I know you guys will be building the engine yourself but BRIAN at LME can certainly open you son's eyes as to what all needs to be considered.

Here is an excellent video to start with:

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Old 12-20-2021, 09:44 AM   #5
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I to am wanting to asm my own engine as well. Steve Morison's LS videos will be close enough and a few others on how to measure clearances.

I was going to have LME build it with stock LT4 internals for the wifes motor. she only has an LT4 fuel system so no need to use anything crazy since her fuel system would only support about 800 hp. Plus I have a LT4 crank & rods also only 4 good pistons from a buddies motor.

LME quote:
2295 for a block and the quote didn't say if it was new or not.
2400 for ASM and all the labor.
another thousand for tax, main studs, and rings

I had a few important questions myself:

Bearing Journals: What if the you have standard sized journals and standard size bearings yet there is to much clearance or vice versa.

Answer: I saw a professional builder use 1 over size bearing and 1 regular sized bearing to get the correct clearance. So I got that part down..

Crankshaft end play: what if you don't have enough? I know you sand down the bearing flange ever so slightly. What if you have to much? Do they make bigger flanges? After all the video I never saw this addressed.

Ring gapping: file fitting rings if you remove material do you take equal amounts of both sides of the ring so it holds a true circle for the bore. I've never seen this mentioned yet I have seen many videos on file fitting.

I'm pretty sure I can find a used block for 1100 to 1200 and let him do the machine work with the ARP studs aligned honed. maybe let him file fit the rings since it would be stupid to by a ring grinder for 1 small project.

the rest of the tolerances can be checked with the bore gauge.


I've rebuilt probably 20 small engines, 2 tractor diesel engines, one car engine. All have been just cylinder bored by hand with a drill they have all ran fine with no problems but I realize this is 1000 hp crank motor.

going to take the crank over today to Pete's crank grinding who LME uses.
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Old 12-20-2021, 03:34 PM   #6
Tim M

 
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I was hoping for books on the topic! But I guess that has gone away for videos... Do appreciate the suggestions and will take a gander at what youtube has to offer.

EDF: Fortunately, I've got a some experience with automobiles (7 car engines)...but I'm more of an engine assembler. I have few tools to measure and use a machine shop to verify the numbers with their experience and high dollar tools. Living in Germany puts us at a severe disadvantage. Shops rarely see an America engine and especially not a late model LT1. Buying new is typically the best choice - a new LT1 block is on order. They go for $2225, but may be tough to find now.

You bring up several good points. My limited experience and results probably mean little. I have file fitted rings on each engine and end up with low oil burning and good compression so not sure how critical parallel gaps vice just getting to the correct spec. Thrust: likely now days, the thrust is within spec or you get a new crank. Welding up a used crank for excessive thrust seems cost prohibitive with chinese parts. Bearings: you describe a situation where you are between specs of offered bearings - I've read where mixing size will get you half way, etc. I've not been in that situation...although I've ended up buying 3 sets of bearings (Evo project) to bracket the correct size...and several trips to the machine shop to verify for piece of mind!

Buying an assembled shortblock is probably the way to go, but won't do much for a father/son project...;-)
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Old 12-20-2021, 05:04 PM   #7
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Nothing really different between a ls and a lt. your best resource is going to be the factory service manual.
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Old 12-20-2021, 06:10 PM   #8
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Only thing that's for sure is don't use a factory Crankshaft timing gear with and aftermarket crank unless it's been chamfered. And do not use and old oil pump with out using the alignment tool of course that's if doing like a cam swap and reusing the pump. If your doing a new build just get a new pump.
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Old 12-20-2021, 11:01 PM   #9
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Id check out the corvette forum and search FYREANT, great diy's and think he has one written on building a block forsure with drop ins but is very thorough so can probably use a lot of the info.
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Old 12-22-2021, 02:30 PM   #10
Tim M

 
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Efi69Cam: Great point...thanks.

EDF: Noted on the gear. Texas Speed includes in their rotating kit...went with them as they have in stock items and they can balance the entire set before shipping. Eliminating another variable to work out overseas.

SSUNDVL: Looked up FYREANT and great resource! Although his engine spun bearings so...;-) Nonetheless, very helpful! Thanks.
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Old 12-22-2021, 10:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES View Post
Only thing that's for sure is don't use a factory Crankshaft timing gear with and aftermarket crank unless it's been chamfered. And do not use and old oil pump with out using the alignment tool of course that's if doing like a cam swap and reusing the pump. If your doing a new build just get a new pump.
I know we had a thread about it but I am (and I think other people are as well) still confused about the oil pump alignment. I can't remember what the factory manual calls for, and I don't have it on this computer with me right now, but I figure it just says use the tool no matter what. I just don't get how someone said you don't have to use the alignment tool on a new pump. It seems to me like it wouldn't matter and may even be more critical on a new pump.

And second, honestly I have used the super expensive factory "alignment tool" and I still feel like even with it you could still pretty easily slip and misalign it. It also aligns by pushing the pump body up against a rounded surface that is tilted, which obviously would seem a lot better to make a tool that lets the pump butt up against a straight edge surface to align with.

Anyway, after buying it and using it, it felt a lot less necessary. I also measured the dimensions of it and made a CAD model I stored somewhere if anyone wants it? It honestly would probably cost you just as much to buy a used tool than it would be to get some machined from aluminum from the CAD model, but if someone has a good 3D printer that has decent dimensional accuracy and can print a relatively hard material, I don't see why it couldn't be 3D printed?
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Old 12-23-2021, 06:07 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmitchell17 View Post
I know we had a thread about it but I am (and I think other people are as well) still confused about the oil pump alignment. I can't remember what the factory manual calls for, and I don't have it on this computer with me right now, but I figure it just says use the tool no matter what. I just don't get how someone said you don't have to use the alignment tool on a new pump. It seems to me like it wouldn't matter and may even be more critical on a new pump.

And second, honestly I have used the super expensive factory "alignment tool" and I still feel like even with it you could still pretty easily slip and misalign it. It also aligns by pushing the pump body up against a rounded surface that is tilted, which obviously would seem a lot better to make a tool that lets the pump butt up against a straight edge surface to align with.

Anyway, after buying it and using it, it felt a lot less necessary. I also measured the dimensions of it and made a CAD model I stored somewhere if anyone wants it? It honestly would probably cost you just as much to buy a used tool than it would be to get some machined from aluminum from the CAD model, but if someone has a good 3D printer that has decent dimensional accuracy and can print a relatively hard material, I don't see why it couldn't be 3D printed?
the tool is less than 40 bucks. from all the post and build videos they say just for reusing the old pump on same motor like a repair or cam swap. I guess it wears the rotors a certain way and this puts them back where they original were set either high up or low on the crank. think of at as putting lifters back in the spot I guess.
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