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Old 04-22-2018, 01:46 PM   #1
Tabester
 
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Help: Car lost all power after header install

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone can drop some knowledge on me, I just installed some stainless works 1 7/8 headers on my 18 ss 1LE yesterday. Everything went fine car turned on, I ran it for a while last night with no issues. Just 2 hours ago on my way to the muffler shop (driving with open headers) to weld in some connection pipes, about 2 blocks away no warnings car just dies at the light. No power. Car didn’t turn back on, the light comes on the ignition switch, Passenger side window, radio and a/c are the ONLY things that work, had to get it towed home. I just looked under it no wires are touching the headers everything has great clearance. No plastic smell/smoke. I’m stuck can’t think of anything that might’ve happened. Car has 2,500 miles on it. Anyone have any suggestions I would really appreciate it.
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Old 04-22-2018, 01:54 PM   #2
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Passenger side wire harness check over ,also wires down by starter
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:18 PM   #3
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Thank you for your quick response man I appricate it, I just went outside and checked for a 10th time nothing is touching on the passenger side by the starter or harness.
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Old 04-22-2018, 02:23 PM   #4
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I know I’m having some sort of electrical short. On the fuse box inside the engine compartment on the positive terminal I’m getting 0.8 ohms on my tester. However no wires that I see are rubbing, touching, Frayed or broken.
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wierd Harold View Post
Passenger side wire harness check over ,also wires down by starter
I looked it over again pulled the starter and saw the starter wire was rubbing on the inside of the starter heat shield and caused the wire to fray, thus shorting something. So i put heat shrink and wrapped it in wire loom and electrical tape. Now that’s taken care of I still have the same issue. Does anyone know if there are fuseable links for our starters. I still have no power only to radio, a/c and pass window. Car won’t lock or my driver side window won’t go up. Can’t seem to find a widening diagram either. Any help gents would be greats thanks.
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:45 PM   #6
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All I have to offer is try disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15-20 mins. Reconnect and let everything reboot.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:21 PM   #7
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There is a set of non-replaceable fuses where the power comes into the underhood fuse box. (The little box that attaches the side of the fuse box.)

Each post has its own fuse. They aren't replaceable without buying a whole new fuse box, but you can temporarily move the wires to a different post.

I'm not sure this is the problem, but it's something I'd check given the problem that you had.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:27 PM   #8
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Have you checked all fuses front and rear fuse panels?
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:45 PM   #9
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Below is a picture of what I was referring to earlier. Each one of the numbered posts at the bottom has a metal plate providing continuity. That metal plate is a fuse. If you look close, you can even see the amperage rating stamped into each plate.

For your case, a quick check to ensure each post has power would probably suffice.

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Old 04-22-2018, 10:53 PM   #10
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I cant say it enough but thank you guys for trying to help Me man I really do appreciate it. I already tried to reboot everything. I also checked all the fuses, it’s just strange because in the engine compartment fuse box I’m still getting a short somewhere nothing shows 12V but the battery. it’s all mixed low numbers. It has to be something that after the starter wire grounded. Awesome Ill go ahead and check out the That fuse box Tomorrow. I’m scratching my head on this shit If the starter wire grounded than it’s protected by a fuses, relays and fuseable link. But why wouldn’t nothing else work electronically in the car? Wouldn’t it just be not able to start the car?
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Old 04-23-2018, 06:39 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tabester View Post
I cant say it enough but thank you guys for trying to help Me man I really do appreciate it. I already tried to reboot everything. I also checked all the fuses, it’s just strange because in the engine compartment fuse box I’m still getting a short somewhere nothing shows 12V but the battery. it’s all mixed low numbers. It has to be something that after the starter wire grounded. Awesome Ill go ahead and check out the That fuse box Tomorrow. I’m scratching my head on this shit If the starter wire grounded than it’s protected by a fuses, relays and fuseable link. But why wouldn’t nothing else work electronically in the car? Wouldn’t it just be not able to start the car?
If something is grounded, it probably isn't just going to pull the voltage down. It's going to blow a fuse somewhere.

The more you describe, the more it sounds like you've blown one of the fuses I was talking about. I'm thinking it's the main fuse your power is coming into the fuse box on.

Each of the posts in the picture should all have continuity, and 12v all of the time. If only the main wire has 12v, then the fuse attached to the incoming power wire's post is the one that's blown.

I can't remember if the main wire comes in on #1 or #2, but if what I describe above is true move the main power wire to the opposite post. If it's on #1 move it to #2, or vice-versa. Leave its original post empty, don't swap any other wires.

If the problem you found was the only short, everything should start working again. If it does, you've found the problem and you'll need an entire new fuse box to fix it. You know, because making a fuse a replaceable part would just be silly.
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:29 AM   #12
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I found the issue, I did what you said reversed the wires and traced it back to the battery once I did so I tested to 350A fuse that’s on the actual battery and found it was bad. Thanks for your help man.
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Old 04-23-2018, 05:25 PM   #13
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I found the issue, I did what you said reversed the wires and traced it back to the battery once I did so I tested to 350A fuse that’s on the actual battery and found it was bad. Thanks for your help man.
Nice to see it sorted out, I was about to comment saying check the fuse in the back.

For future reference: The car has a single 200A fuse in the black box in front of the car in between the 1 post(which goes to the alternator) and everything else. That fuse will only blow if you short the alternator positive(as I found out). It is non serviceable according to my dealership parts department.

The starter(and the rest of the car) is fused off the big 350A in the back.
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Old 04-23-2018, 07:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffm4688 View Post
Nice to see it sorted out, I was about to comment saying check the fuse in the back.

For future reference: The car has a single 200A fuse in the black box in front of the car in between the 1 post(which goes to the alternator) and everything else. That fuse will only blow if you short the alternator positive(as I found out). It is non serviceable according to my dealership parts department.

The starter(and the rest of the car) is fused off the big 350A in the back.
I went to the dealership and bought the part it was $105. Everything works fine now.
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