[Clearly_Canadian]

[QUOTE=RLNTLSS;10731684]I'm planning on running zero gauge from the battery to a distributor and then four gauge to both amps fused on the zero gauge and on the 4 gauge also running a distributor block minus fuses from the ground which would be a zero to two smaller 4 gauge wires that would be the grounds for the amps Will the LC i2 remote start both

I just ran an in-line fuse from the battery to the distribution block and straight to each amp. The amps are fused, so I figured this was enough.

As far as the floor sagging, it is pretty stiff. I did not re-enforce it because this set up will only be temporary. I don’t notice any sag. Even when loaded with groceries. Maybe a little. I don’t load up my trunk enough to worry too much. I really don’t like losing the trunk space from my box not to mention the weight of it. I’ll be revamping it with a custom fibreglass set up when the weather gets warmer to work outside.

[puppykat33]

Originally Posted by RLNTLSS

I'm planning on running zero gauge from the battery to a distributor and then four gauge to both amps fused on the zero gauge and on the 4 gauge also running a distributor block minus fuses from the ground which would be a zero to two smaller 4 gauge wires that would be the grounds for the amps Will the LC i2 remote start both amps

Humm i dont know if the LC2i will start both amps it might, but depending on the amps you have if they are newer models you can use the line out of the primary amp IE the one the lc2i is turning on to run the rcas to the secondary amp imput and use the signal sensing option to turn on the second amp may be an option,,,, or you can use a micro fuse tap to use i think fuse number 56...(CHECK IN THE FUSE BOX in the rear of the car for the correct number fuse to use) for the wireless phone charging thing in the back. it is 12v switched. this would probably be the best way. the micro fuse taps are like 12 buks on amazon for 6 or so

[RLNTLSS]

I chose to change my build last minute of this morn.. going 2k skar audio and 2 x12sa sundown in a thumpsub box sealed.

[2004YZFR1]

Originally Posted by Booher

It's been a little over 2 years and it hasnt overheated yet. Hasnt even really been too hot to touch either, no matter how hard I crank it. I'm sure the load on your amp may make a bit of a difference.

Hi, did you install a sub amp and woofer only to your system and keep the rest of the Bose 2SS stuff?

[RLNTLSS]

The problem people are having with the bose system is there's no real way of finding a positive and negative for your amps (rca)for your high output so you get an LC2I plug that lets you siphon from the Bose audio setup without having to cut any wires well if you get a harness from subtphhumb and it's easy good to go right there you can also turn up the signal feed for the LC2I to either be a little louder than the bose or to be a little lower than the bose but the bose stereo sounds pretty good from about 2% volume25% in up to about 50%volume and then a little after 50%..... at 60 to75%audio turned up u cant really tell anything so bassy

[2004YZFR1]

I think that is what i'm going to do for now also. Get the ******** harness and maybe their sub box and use the amp and sub I removed from my last car. I would love to change out the dash and door speakers and put my good components in too, but that might be further down the road. Thanks for the info.

[RLNTLSS]

The LC2i makes the install a breez

[2004YZFR1]

Thanks again! RLNTSS

[RLNTLSS]

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-.../dp/B00IIL0LW0

[h018871]

OLD THREAD ALERT

This is a related inquiry: I saw in a thread that the CTS/ATS have the amp and/or fuse box located behind the side covers from the factory. Now I can't find any thread that mentions it.
Has anyone heard of this or better yet, know the bracket part numbers?