[oldman]

I have a MAP install, so the instructions for the power pickup are
"Route the wiring harness over towards the fuse box." OK check
"There is a ground in front of the fuse box" Ok check
basically install ground.. OK check
6)"Remove the nut on the fuse box positive post and add the remaining unpaired red terminal. Reinstall nut"

OK not check.
First I going to assume the "post' is the metal post under the red positive cap. Well it is BLIND.

So I take the entire black cover off exposing dunnno 6 total positive terminals.

I then can take the nut off holding the huge red wire from the battery and put this hot to the DSX controller on. This turns into the blind post extended past the cover into the red cap.


Well as soon as I unlock the car, the secondary fuel pump comes on. When the car is turned off the pump continues on for like dunno 3 to 5 minutes.

I can't tell but I don't know if the pump ever goes off when the engine is on??? I'm still on the factory MAP but all MAP connections are hooked up and the car runs fine.

My thinking is the hot has to be keyed hot. and don't know why the pump seems to be always on The kit is suppose to be like 3 to 5 PSI before on. I'll check the MAP connections in the morning and there is NO way I got hot and ground mixed up.

Any others that have done the install please chime in.

[Harpinc]

The hot is definitely keyed but should only come on with the correct MAP pressure. Email David and he will get you straightened out. He is very helpful on his stuff.

[oldman]

I'll get the probe that my son put away (hence it is NOT there), and find keyed hot from the box. I'll email or call DSX, they are on the forum a lot.

[DSX Tuning]

Originally Posted by oldman

I have a MAP install, so the instructions for the power pickup are
"Route the wiring harness over towards the fuse box." OK check
"There is a ground in front of the fuse box" Ok check
basically install ground.. OK check
6)"Remove the nut on the fuse box positive post and add the remaining unpaired red terminal. Reinstall nut"

OK not check.
First I going to assume the "post' is the metal post under the red positive cap. Well it is BLIND.

So I take the entire black cover off exposing dunnno 6 total positive terminals.

I then can take the nut off holding the huge red wire from the battery and put this hot to the DSX controller on. This turns into the blind post extended past the cover into the red cap.

I don't know about anybody else but a no fused connector to constant hot is never a great idea. Should it not be keyed hot? We are talking a FUEL pump.


Behavior: Well as soon as I unlock the car, the secondary fuel pump comes on. When the car is turned off the pump continues on for like dunno 3 to 5 minutes.

I can't tell but I don't know if the pump ever goes off when the engine is on??? I'm still on the factory MAP but all MAP connections are hooked up and the car runs fine.

My thinking is the hot has to be keyed hot. and don't know why the pump seems to be always on The kit is suppose to be like 3 to 5 PSI before on. I'll check the MAP connections in the morning and there is NO way I got hot and ground mixed up.

Any others that have done the install please chime in.

The electronics in the controller don't require a fuse. The driver is a smart driver and can detect a short circuit condition which is what a fuse is meant to stop. The driver automatically cuts power, and it will do this for an over temperature situation as well. The only risk is if that short lead from battery positive to the controller itself shorts out, but 15" worth of genuine TXL wire isn't a huge risk. If you purposely ground out the hot feed to the pump and trigger the controller, it'll instantly shut off and illuminate the red LED (red LED indicates an error state in which the driver is commanded on, but it has shut itself off for protection).

If you're running the factory MAP sensor, the pump is going to run any time you turn the car on or power up the ECM. The ECM powers up when you unlock the car, when you open the door, when you set the brake, and when you pretty much have any sort of interaction. You HAVE to use a LS9 MAP sensor instead of the LS3 sensor because regular barometric pressure is high enough to output a voltage on the LS3 sensor that will trigger the controller to run the pump. This is why there's the option on checkout for either the LS9 MAP sensor harness or LT4 MAP sensor harness.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by DSX Tuning

The electronics in the controller don't require a fuse. The driver is a smart driver and can detect a short circuit condition which is what a fuse is meant to stop. The driver automatically cuts power, and it will do this for an over temperature situation as well. The only risk is if that short lead from battery positive to the controller itself shorts out, but 15" worth of genuine TXL wire isn't a huge risk. If you purposely ground out the hot feed to the pump and trigger the controller, it'll instantly shut off and illuminate the red LED (red LED indicates an error state in which the driver is commanded on, but it has shut itself off for protection).

If you're running the factory MAP sensor, the pump is going to run any time you turn the car on or power up the ECM. The ECM powers up when you unlock the car, when you open the door, when you set the brake, and when you pretty much have any sort of interaction. You HAVE to use a LS9 MAP sensor instead of the LS3 sensor because regular barometric pressure is high enough to output a voltage on the LS3 sensor that will trigger the controller to run the pump. This is why there's the option on checkout for either the LS9 MAP sensor harness or LT4 MAP sensor harness.

Roger that, the LS9 map is on the way, due in today.
Basically, the driver is the fuse (went to my junior year in EE), but got a computer engineering degree instead, it was the up and coming field ya know! LOL.

I did read your whole tech article about making this driver vs the hobbs switch... very nice piece of work.

As stated this is a top quality kit...

[zepol9]

Anyone have an issue putting the t in stock fuel line because mine doesnt want to fit between the 2. the pipe coming off the tank is getting pinched before im even close

[Choda]

Originally Posted by oldman

Roger that, the LS9 map is on the way, due in today.
Basically, the driver is the fuse (went to my junior year in EE), but got a computer engineering degree instead, it was the up and coming field ya know! LOL.

I did read your whole tech article about making this driver vs the hobbs switch... very nice piece of work.

As stated this is a top quality kit...

What positive post on the side of the fuse box are you using? Does your box turn the red led on at all now?