[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

It’s a quick fix you only have to swap out the bottom piece on the pic I posted. If you look at the pics I posted previously the piece that’s cracked is the only revision to the design.

AWESOME! appreciate the update!

hope all goes well this weekend!

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

AWESOME! appreciate the update!

hope all goes well this weekend!

No problem and thanks I appreciate it!

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

No problem and thanks I appreciate it!

Hopefully all works out and I'll purchase and have Andy align. http://www.phoenixperformance.net/ph...aquilante.html

[Mjollnir]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Hopefully all works out and I'll purchase and have Andy align. http://www.phoenixperformance.net/ph...aquilante.html

Looks Like Andy knows what he's doing

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by Mjollnir

Looks Like Andy knows what he's doing

Dude is insanely fast.

[TEX1LE]

Everything went perfect today and I had no issues at all with the camber plates. I also tried the no lift shift today for the first time and it works great.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Good to hear. Whats your alignment number if you don't mind.

No lift shifts? I missed this. Details please!

[TEX1LE]

No problem I don’t mind. The front is -3.5 camber with 1/8” toe out and the rear is -2.5 camber with 1/8” toe in.

For the no lift shift I saw the thread a week or so ago in the “ask Al” section. When you’re WOT and at 5k or above RPM you can shift while WOT. I need to do some more looking into it because in the HUD it flashed green, yellow, or red. The only thing that comes to mind is it’s telling you how close the shift is to redline.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

No problem I don’t mind. The front is -3.5 camber with 1/8” toe out and the rear is -2.5 camber with 1/8” toe in.

For the no lift shift I saw the thread a week or so ago in the “ask Al” section. When you’re WOT and at 5k or above RPM you can shift while WOT. I need to do some more looking into it because in the HUD it flashed green, yellow, or red. The only thing that comes to mind is it’s telling you how close the shift is to redline.

Exactly. HUD’s lights are only linked to RPM. No lift shifting only requires 2 things: 100% wide open throttle and rpms over 5k. If you have 99% throttle, engine RPM’s will rise when you engage the clutch just like any other car without NLS. NLS rocks, anytime I’m on a fast lap on track, pretty much every shift is NLS. Watching any PDR video it’s easy to see if the driver is using NLS. If the driver upshifts and the throttle stays pegged (green) while you see gear# change= No Lift Shift.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

No problem I don’t mind. The front is -3.5 camber with 1/8” toe out and the rear is -2.5 camber with 1/8” toe in.

For the no lift shift I saw the thread a week or so ago in the “ask Al” section. When you’re WOT and at 5k or above RPM you can shift while WOT. I need to do some more looking into it because in the HUD it flashed green, yellow, or red. The only thing that comes to mind is it’s telling you how close the shift is to redline.

How did you manage to get that much of camber in the rear? aftermarket ball joint?

[TEX1LE]

Originally Posted by glamcem

How did you manage to get that much of camber in the rear? aftermarket ball joint?

I have the BMR on car adjustable upper control arms and toe rods.

[RXtacy]

Originally Posted by glamcem

How did you manage to get that much of camber in the rear? aftermarket ball joint?

When I was messing with my rear alignment I was able to get quite a bit of camber out of it. North of -2.5° IIRC. The problem is that the factory toe adjustment doesn't have enough range to compensate and get the toe back in order. I think with adjustable toe links alone you should be able to get that.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

I have the BMR on car adjustable upper control arms and toe rods.

Thanks

Originally Posted by RXtacy

When I was messing with my rear alignment I was able to get quite a bit of camber out of it. North of -2.5° IIRC. The problem is that the factory toe adjustment doesn't have enough range to compensate and get the toe back in order. I think with adjustable toe links alone you should be able to get that.

That is correct Since he had enough toe in, I was wondering

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by TEX1LE

No problem I don’t mind. The front is -3.5 camber with 1/8” toe out and the rear is -2.5 camber with 1/8” toe in.

For the no lift shift I saw the thread a week or so ago in the “ask Al” section. When you’re WOT and at 5k or above RPM you can shift while WOT. I need to do some more looking into it because in the HUD it flashed green, yellow, or red. The only thing that comes to mind is it’s telling you how close the shift is to redline.

Wow!! Thats an amazing amount of rear camber!!

Like austrailian v8 supercars level amounts!