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Old 03-28-2018, 09:47 PM   #43
baron95
2018 1LE, NASA Instructor
 
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I can't wait to hit the track with my 1LE. But I doubt I'll be faster in it than in the C7 Z51.

On the other hand I traded out of the 2015 C7 Z51 into the 2018 SS 1LE for even money. That is worth a few tens on the track
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:43 AM   #44
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Ford is cheap and their offers not very serious a la original GT350 missing the coolers too. But very surprised about the PP2 not having coolers. Ridiculous imo. Agree that 1le is a real deal and nicely packaged too.Other than a low grade stereo...but i could not care less as i always listen to LT1 music anyway
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Old 03-29-2018, 12:44 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baron95 View Post
I can't wait to hit the track with my 1LE. But I doubt I'll be faster in it than in the C7 Z51.

On the other hand I traded out of the 2015 C7 Z51 into the 2018 SS 1LE for even money. That is worth a few tens on the track
I think you will be pleasantly surprised....
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:10 AM   #46
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Drives: '18 Silver SS 1LE
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I've had her for two weeks now, and its a great car! What do you all suggest for a good intake on these?
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:35 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by mdbennes View Post
I've had her for two weeks now, and its a great car! What do you all suggest for a good intake on these?
Something wrong with stock intake?
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Old 04-06-2018, 10:46 AM   #48
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Drives: 17 SW 1LE
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Originally Posted by mdbennes View Post
I've had her for two weeks now, and its a great car! What do you all suggest for a good intake on these?
GM w/ the tune if you must, but really no intake is worth the money.
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Old 04-06-2018, 12:33 PM   #49
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GM w/ the tune if you must, but really no intake is worth the money.
What he said
Stock paper filter inside the stock airbox has proven to work well. Any upgrade with some sort of aftermarket "intake kit" is going to provide negligible usable power gains in the ideal scenario.

For considerable power gains across the RPM range, it is either investing a lot of $$ on internals keeping the motor in its N/A state and having a marginally streetable car with a max usable power of ~ 550-570 crank on 93 or opt for a FI power adder in the form of a Centri (I.E. ATI, Vortec, Etc) or PD (Maggie, Whipple, Eaton-LT4, Edelbrock-EForce, Etc.) and look at a ~ 700 crank HP figure with proper internal forgings (Pistons to the very least) and upgraded fueling, I.E. LT4 LPS and HPS + Injectors.
Of course a proper tune plays a crucial role in the overall success rate
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Old 04-06-2018, 04:26 PM   #50
R3ctivision
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Congrats to the OP! I too came from a Vette and haven't regretted it for a second.

Baron - my car's suspension feel was subliminal even with factory alignment. So I'd suggest something is not quite right if you're detecting rear end moving around.
Check that everything is buttoned down right. From your description it sure sounds like something might be loose back there? F sway coming loose is a fairly common issue but evident by a "clunking" noise. Perhaps something else is the culprit on your car? In any case that's odd vs normal from what you're describing.
Cheers!
I also get a weird feeling when accelerating over rough pavement/bumps. It kinda feels like the rear subframe rubber-bands a bit. I had a similar feeling in my old E82 135i, which is known to have too-soft rear subframe bushings, especially with a coilover setup. Maybe that's what he is describing?
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Old 04-07-2018, 10:04 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I also get a weird feeling when accelerating over rough pavement/bumps. It kinda feels like the rear subframe rubber-bands a bit. I had a similar feeling in my old E82 135i, which is known to have too-soft rear subframe bushings, especially with a coilover setup. Maybe that's what he is describing?
No idea. But his factory alignment was all messed up pretty good. Assuming yours is perfect it could be TC and or elsd hunting for traction while the rear is moving over the bumps. Who knows. I have zero complaints but i am gentle when on rough roads.
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Old 04-08-2018, 05:18 PM   #52
Pollock
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Originally Posted by R3ctivision View Post
I also get a weird feeling when accelerating over rough pavement/bumps. It kinda feels like the rear subframe rubber-bands a bit. I had a similar feeling in my old E82 135i, which is known to have too-soft rear subframe bushings, especially with a coilover setup. Maybe that's what he is describing?
Check you tube. The craddle bushings do deflect a lot under load. There are a few videos showing the movement.
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Old 04-08-2018, 07:59 PM   #53
baron95
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Things definitely got better after I got the alignment and programmed the driving mode to my liking. I know leave it in Sport (since track reverts to Tour at shutdown), with suspension on Tour (bad roads here) and steering sport and exhaust in Track (loud).

After start, I double click traction control button to put it in Competitive Mode. That is the only thing I have the patience to do on every start.

With this set up launch and handling over imperfect pavement is a lot better, and, of course, you can have a lot more before the nannies try to help (which they suck at).

I still feel the back is a lot less settled than the C7 Z51 - the car will wiggle left to right (in a floaty slow manner, nothing scary, but weird) on full acceleration all the way to near 80MPH. And on turns I still feel the rear first take a set, then hold the car to carve the turn - it is a definite two step process vs a single one in the Z51. Nothing major, but the differences are there.
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Old 04-08-2018, 08:19 PM   #54
Pollock
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Originally Posted by baron95 View Post
Things definitely got better after I got the alignment and programmed the driving mode to my liking. I know leave it in Sport (since track reverts to Tour at shutdown), with suspension on Tour (bad roads here) and steering sport and exhaust in Track (loud).

After start, I double click traction control button to put it in Competitive Mode. That is the only thing I have the patience to do on every start.

With this set up launch and handling over imperfect pavement is a lot better, and, of course, you can have a lot more before the nannies try to help (which they suck at).

I still feel the back is a lot less settled than the C7 Z51 - the car will wiggle left to right (in a floaty slow manner, nothing scary, but weird) on full acceleration all the way to near 80MPH. And on turns I still feel the rear first take a set, then hold the car to carve the turn - it is a definite two step process vs a single one in the Z51. Nothing major, but the differences are there.
The rear of the car can be fixed with new craddle bushings. I did it to my 5th gen and it was a night and day improvement. The read end became solid and the shifty feeling was gone.

Have not messed with this car as its no where near as bad as the my old 5th gen was and changing out the bushings is a pain in the butt. However BMR makes a lockout kit I have my eye on they say helps almost as well as new bushings and so much easier to install.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:21 PM   #55
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Also, a previous vette owner, and when I went shopping back in November 2016, I also test drove a GS to make sure I wasn't making a mistake. I found the 1LE to be every bit as competent, and being older was much easier getting in and out of, and also fit better in my rather tight garage.
The SS 1LE might be competent with the Z51 but not with the GS which is in another league.
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Old 04-23-2018, 11:30 PM   #56
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The SS 1LE might be competent with the Z51 but not with the GS which is in another league.
This may depend on GS trim and specifically tires.
I had to work hard for it 3 or 4 laps but eventually did pass my buddy in his brand new GS at Mosport (note his didnt come with cup2s).
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