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Old 05-15-2020, 04:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
They cord on the inside on ZLEs . There was a discussion on 1LE R (facebook page). Some believe it's because of the ZLEs LCA bushing design that changes the dynamic toe during turns.
Well, the tires ive corded on my 1le did so on the inside. Ditto TheRealJa if i recall his pix properly on his SS. Ditto a friend with a ZL1 running G3Rs. A tire cording on the outside and this quickly is pretty strange imo. Anyway, curious to find out how often Sean swaps the fronts to get 3 days outta them. Cheers!
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Old 05-15-2020, 05:07 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub View Post
Well, the tires ive corded on my 1le did so on the inside. Ditto TheRealJa if i recall his pix properly on his SS. Ditto a friend with a ZL1 running G3Rs. A tire cording on the outside and this quickly is pretty strange imo. Anyway, curious to find out how often Sean swaps the fronts to get 3 days outta them. Cheers!
There could be some legitimacy to that. Mike (carguy55) does not have the FLCA FEA steering links yet while I do. He just started running the G3R’s but wear is very good for him on his fronts. However, he is now a true square set up and can rotate front to back as well as side to side.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...postcount=1132

I’ve had the links in since very shortly after getting the car. I’ve hard corded more on the inside than outside at ~2.76-2.78 front if I only rotate side to side and don’t flip the fronts on the rim (ZL1 1LE wheels). This was my last front wore out with final HC’s [8x 30-minutes EACH LF and RF position] and street round trips [4x 180 miles] marked. I was lazy and did not trailer nor change tires at the track for that set nor did I flip the fronts on the rims.
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Last edited by RUQWIKR; 05-15-2020 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 05-15-2020, 07:43 PM   #17
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The SC3R can last 3 days even with hard driving you just have to manage temps. If your running a hpde and 20-30 minute sessions recommend just 1 cool down lap in the niddle and will help significantly. Also zero toe I found to be crucial! Good insight on RRs- always been a hoosier fan myself!
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Old 05-15-2020, 08:00 PM   #18
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I don't think the innerwear issue on the ZLE/G3R's is related to tire temps, at least in my own experiences. Tire temps have never shown to be out of control, oddly, even on the innermost portion of the tire that cords.

What have you experienced/tested to show temps play a role?

I would love to get more heat cycles out of the G3R's! Even playing with zero toe or +1/16th, I've maxed about 7-8 heat cycles.
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Old 05-15-2020, 08:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by RUQWIKR View Post
There could be some legitimacy to that. Mike (carguy55) does not have the FLCA FEA steering links yet while I do. He just started running the G3R’s but wear is very good for him on his fronts. However, he is now a true square set up and can rotate front to back as well as side to side.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...postcount=1132

I’ve had the links in since very shortly after getting the car. I’ve hard corded more on the inside than outside at ~2.76-2.78 front if I only rotate side to side and don’t flip the fronts on the rim (ZL1 1LE wheels). This was my last front wore out with final HC’s [8x 30-minutes EACH LF and RF position] and street round trips [4x 180 miles] marked. I was lazy and did not trailer nor change tires at the track for that set nor did I flip the fronts on the rims.
That looks like a "normally" corded tire. 4 days worth average plus some DD seems damn good, too, given general feedback on longevity.

Not sure how Cem ended up with a tire that looks completely brutalized. Weird he would not have noticed it starting to go until 5 runs later. Unless something extraordinary happened on the last run? Like the camber went? No idea, so hope he chimes in and hopefully sheds more light here.

PS I assume we all check our tires after each run as a matter of regular safety protocol. Besides any trouble on the outside left is really easy to spot. So, again: i am baffled.
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Old 05-17-2020, 09:37 AM   #20
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https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...484731&page=81

I am adding this thread as relative to G3R. See post #1130 onwards incl pix.
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Old 05-18-2020, 09:41 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrackClub View Post
Well, the tires ive corded on my 1le did so on the inside. Ditto TheRealJa if i recall his pix properly on his SS. Ditto a friend with a ZL1 running G3Rs. A tire cording on the outside and this quickly is pretty strange imo. Anyway, curious to find out how often Sean swaps the fronts to get 3 days outta them. Cheers!
Correct, I've corded every set of my G3s on the inside, but I attribute that to street miles and I'm at -2.3 camber (maxed on my car). I went to zero toe on the last alignment and this set seems to be getting more even wear. I have also been running very high 45+ psi for all street driving now to use the center tread more. I think if i were to only track the car, i would definitely cord the outsides first.

However with all these conversations about dynamic toe change and dragging the inside wheel through turns, I really don't know if the inside cording is from street miles or this
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Old 05-18-2020, 10:12 AM   #22
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I don’t street drive my car at all and cord within 7 sessions.(on the inside)
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Old 05-18-2020, 10:29 AM   #23
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I have never corded a single tire on the outside. Ever.

Street driving loads are nothing in comparison to track loads. Unless a toe spec is way off, even a soft tire will survive DD for thousands of miles, even with track camber. Especially a modest one. And especially with zero toe.

Anyhow, looking at that pic of LF, I'd suggest that tire had undergone some physical trauma. Like a sharp curb, etc. There seems to be a whole outside strip of rubber gone. As if something cut it off. At least in my eyes looking at the pic.

If it happened to me i would not consider it normal under any circumstances. High degree of graining may also offer a hint here. Anyhow, not my problem
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Old 05-18-2020, 02:03 PM   #24
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I don’t street drive my car at all and cord within 7 sessions.(on the inside)
Interesting, I figured you were getting some street miles and mixed use like me. Pointing more and more towards dragging the inside tire on the track.

It really seems like Cem overheated that outside edge and it just delaminated. Cem what does the inside of the RF look like?
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
Interesting, I figured you were getting some street miles and mixed use like me. Pointing more and more towards dragging the inside tire on the track.

It really seems like Cem overheated that outside edge and it just delaminated. Cem what does the inside of the RF look like?
Could very well be heat, but then it begs a question: why? Such as: too sudden a weight transfer (aka set up, driver, etc). And a good question to ask for sure
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Old 05-18-2020, 03:41 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
Yes, Between pistons and pad. I found them at KNS brakes this should be for SS 1LE front

https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-item/496...+Shims+-+Front

and this should be for the ZLE front
https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-item/535...+Shims+-+Front
Thanks! I guess I didn't click instant email notification.
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Old 05-18-2020, 04:43 PM   #27
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Great write up glamcem, thanks.

Thanks to all for posting follow up opinions/trials.

Following.
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Old 05-18-2020, 05:23 PM   #28
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I agree with TrackClub, RUQWIKR's tire points towards a tire failure and should not happen. I would take it back to Goodyear and request a replacement.
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