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Old 06-23-2020, 07:33 PM   #1
Val Walkinshaw
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Opinion on over/under inflation supercar3

2ss NOT A 1le but you guys know supercar3's better...

300 miles on these 285/305 Supercar3's.

I'm no expert but it appears the fronts are properly inflated based on wear lines and rears are overinflated.
All are at 31/32 psi cold.
So far tires have only seen gentle daily driving (that will soon change).

What's the glazing on the left rear or am I seeing things?
-1 camber up front
-2 camber rear
0 total toe
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Last edited by Val Walkinshaw; 06-24-2020 at 10:39 PM.
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Old 06-24-2020, 01:52 AM   #2
R3ctivision
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I think all you are seeing is the camber angle. Unless you drive the car harder you won't see wear on outside shoulders with your negative camber. You are running more rear camber (an unusual setup) which would explain less outside wear in the rear for normal street driving.
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:55 AM   #3
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As noted the camber is going to play tricks on you. IMHO 31 cold is broaching the low side, OE spec is 32 but you probably know that, and then running them hard is going to change everything entirely for what you want in cold PSI I think the 1LE perf supplement says something like 28 cold with a 34psi hot target (don't quote me exactly on that)
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Old 06-24-2020, 08:12 AM   #4
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your camber.

Most run the other way around with the -2º in the front and the -1º in the rear, usually something more.
Nothing set in stone as alignment specs are a range, not one exact number, whatever works best for you.
But in general the front gets more negative camber than the rear.

Example, now this is more specific than normal:
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Old 06-24-2020, 10:32 AM   #5
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What everyone else said about your camber and also, if your picture labeling is correct, they put a rear tire (305) on your right front (1st pic). You better check all tires/rims...
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:25 PM   #6
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^ what he said. If you labeled those correctly, you've got the rear tires on the front bro...
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Old 06-24-2020, 10:28 PM   #7
Val Walkinshaw
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Derp....

285s are in the front
305s in the rear....

I mislabeled.
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Old 06-24-2020, 10:32 PM   #8
Val Walkinshaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost Creep View Post
your camber.

Most run the other way around with the -2º in the front and the -1º in the rear, usually something more.
Nothing set in stone as alignment specs are a range, not one exact number, whatever works best for you.
But in general the front gets more negative camber than the rear.

Example, now this is more specific than normal:
Agreed on more negative in the front would be desirable.
My understanding was he could not achieve more in the front then rear. I took him the same sheet you have pictured here out of the HP driving manual

FYI this is not a daily and more for autox and spirited driving.

I've not run this setup on the track yet and it was just done Thursday so I'm completely open to all opinions. I see how it appears reversed.
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Old 06-25-2020, 06:44 AM   #9
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Some of these shops in a basic shop kind of situation they won't touch the camber if it's in the green, it's too hard for the laziest to adjust camber. I had this problem, you just need to find a better shop that will work with you. The $80-$100 alignment job just isn't interested in getting you want you really want/need on this kind of car. Of course assuming the alignment guy isn't a real gear head that know's what's up on these types of cars.
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Old 06-25-2020, 08:39 AM   #10
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Pull the front wheels and max your front camber yourself. Make sure to take the top bolt completely out of the strut before you push the knuckle all the way in because the bolt is splined and won't allow full adjustment without removal. Then go back to the alignment shop and have them fix your toe and tell them not to touch your camber.
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Old 06-25-2020, 10:53 AM   #11
Val Walkinshaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnAY View Post
Some of these shops in a basic shop kind of situation they won't touch the camber if it's in the green, it's too hard for the laziest to adjust camber. I had this problem, you just need to find a better shop that will work with you. The $80-$100 alignment job just isn't interested in getting you want you really want/need on this kind of car. Of course assuming the alignment guy isn't a real gear head that know's what's up on these types of cars.

I went to a performance shop that's been around for 40 years. The man who adjusted my car has been a long standing member in the SCCCA community. Instructor and president for a few years. Seemed to mention a friend of his by the name of Danny Popp too.
I watched him do the alignment and he talked with me for two hours doing some education with me about autoX and how alignments are performed.

He thought I was a pretty cool gal so my alignment ended up being free.

I really got the impression my car was set up more for autox and that the lack of camber adjustment in the front was due to limitations of the car, not his ability.

I should also mention that we agreed sometimes it's easier 2 tune a car when in reality it's the driver that needs to be tuned. Cars are easy it's people that are difficult. We agreed to not do anything crazy and if I wanted more aggressive settings I could keep coming back.

But now y'all have me questioning his knowledge base because I did just meet him.

Last edited by Val Walkinshaw; 06-25-2020 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 06-25-2020, 11:58 AM   #12
Val Walkinshaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealJA105 View Post
Pull the front wheels and max your front camber yourself. Make sure to take the top bolt completely out of the strut before you push the knuckle all the way in because the bolt is splined and won't allow full adjustment without removal. Then go back to the alignment shop and have them fix your toe and tell them not to touch your camber.
Help me understand your view.
1) what's wrong with the toe?
2) how much more camber can I get out of the front end?

I was under the car yesterday looking at the rear camber bolts noticing his red line vs GMs blue line and where they were set. I haven't been under the front yet.
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:02 PM   #13
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Toe is the last thing you set, so anytime you make a camber adjustment you have to finish up with a toe adjustment.

People have gotten 2.2-2.4 without modification.

You have to decided what you are going to us the car for. Im at F-2.25 R1.75 and my tires wear pretty well with 4 track events a year combined with 7-8k street miles per year. If i didnt track the car then that much negative camber would wear the inside of tires needlessly.
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Old 06-25-2020, 12:22 PM   #14
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Can you get 2 degree's in an SS without camber bolts etc etc I have a 1LE so unsure what/where you can get a standard SS dialed in to, stock.
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