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Old 01-23-2025, 07:23 PM   #1
DonM
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ZL1 lift pucks and FullMetal Bushings are here!

The ZL1 Addons lift pucks and the FullMetal Bushings arrived this afternoon. Tomorrow I plan on installing the pucks, and I contacted my cousin (who has a lift in his heated garage), so when he is available (hopefully soon!) I will head over and install the bushings.
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Old 01-24-2025, 09:42 AM   #2
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Those really aren't needed if you have a lift. I have a lift and you just lift from solid unibody areas under the car. They would work ok for a floor jack. I would never lift it from the body pinch points on a lift. Just my opinion.
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Old 01-24-2025, 10:27 AM   #3
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I also bought a set and did not use them. If you are careful, I felt there was no need for them.
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Old 01-24-2025, 12:44 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warddc View Post
Those really aren't needed if you have a lift. I have a lift and you just lift from solid unibody areas under the car. They would work ok for a floor jack. I would never lift it from the body pinch points on a lift. Just my opinion.
Since I don't have a lift myself .... and I've decided after over 10 years of having oil changes, etc done by a shop, I am tired of paying over $100 (per job) for labor. I just changed the oil/differential fluid in my Camaro *using premium full synthetic fluids* ($145 OC, $130 differential @ shop VS $70 self oil change & $60 differential service) and the oil, transmission fluid in my wife's Escape *premium full synthetics* ($145 / $120+ @ shop VS $75 / $60 self-change) for an average of 50% savings.

I was able to pick up a really good, low-profile/high lift floor jack and 4 - 6 ton jack stands with what I saved just doing the services once.
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Old 01-24-2025, 01:31 PM   #5
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Since I don't have a lift myself .... and I've decided after over 10 years of having oil changes, etc done by a shop, I am tired of paying over $100 (per job) for labor. I just changed the oil/differential fluid in my Camaro *using premium full synthetic fluids* ($145 OC, $130 differential @ shop VS $70 self oil change & $60 differential service) and the oil, transmission fluid in my wife's Escape *premium full synthetics* ($145 / $120+ @ shop VS $75 / $60 self-change) for an average of 50% savings.

I was able to pick up a really good, low-profile/high lift floor jack and 4 - 6 ton jack stands with what I saved just doing the services once.
Sounds good. Nice to be able to do your own work.
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Old 01-24-2025, 01:56 PM   #6
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Quote:
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Those really aren't needed if you have a lift. I have a lift and you just lift from solid unibody areas under the car. They would work ok for a floor jack. I would never lift it from the body pinch points on a lift. Just my opinion.
I was under the impression that the "solid unibody areas" of the 6th Gens are aluminum and not suitable for lifting which is why folks use the pinch weld lifting points.
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Old 01-24-2025, 02:33 PM   #7
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I was under the impression that the "solid unibody areas" of the 6th Gens are aluminum and not suitable for lifting which is why folks use the pinch weld lifting points.
You are correct. The manual states to lift from the pinch welds even when using a lift.
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Old 01-24-2025, 03:36 PM   #8
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^^^^ these attach to the pinch welds so isn't this effectively the same thing?

@DonM,
Curious to hear the feedback with these solid bushings. I just received my Hurst short shifter and will do mostly the same install as you... well a little more. That said, I anticipate you to get some of the perks of the Hurst shifter while retaining the OE throws.
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Old 01-24-2025, 06:30 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ariZona28 View Post
I was under the impression that the "solid unibody areas" of the 6th Gens are aluminum and not suitable for lifting which is why folks use the pinch weld lifting points.
Correct... which is why these are nice to have.

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^^^^ these attach to the pinch welds so isn't this effectively the same thing?
Yes, they attach to the pinch welds to make them stable for a nice flat lift point. I would not try lifting from the bare pinch welds.

I use the mag puck in the center and lift both front and rear at the same time when I'm doing the work.

These blocks are for that random trip to the shop to ensure a tech can see the nice red lift points and actually use them.
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Old 01-24-2025, 06:35 PM   #10
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^^^^ these attach to the pinch welds so isn't this effectively the same thing?
Right. Mine and Arizona’s response was to the guy stating he lifts from a different point.
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Old 01-24-2025, 06:39 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by DonM View Post
The ZL1 Addons lift pucks and the FullMetal Bushings arrived this afternoon. Tomorrow I plan on installing the pucks, and I contacted my cousin (who has a lift in his heated garage), so when he is available (hopefully soon!) I will head over and install the bushings.
I put lift pads on mine because I didn't want the kids at my local tire store putting a floor jack in the wrong spot
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Old 01-24-2025, 07:55 PM   #12
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I posed this to the mfr, but never got a response from them so maybe we can get one here.


Where is the strength of the pinch weld?

The lifting force, jack or lift, is placed on the thin vertical metal, correct?
If so, then the notch of the lifting blocks MUST be deep enough to allow that to sit/touch the bottom horizontal portion of the lifting blocks. The set screws are ONLY to secure them in place.

My question to the mfr, because they make both, is why does one of the blocks have a HDPE strip in the bottom and the others do not?


If the groove is too deep, then the lifting force is applied to the horizontal surfaces that the lifting block it touching on the bottom of the car.


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Old 01-24-2025, 08:11 PM   #13
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If the groove is too deep, then the lifting force is applied to the horizontal surfaces that the lifting block it touching on the bottom of the car.


This is how mine work... can't remember the brand but 95% sure it was also ZL1addons. The screws just keep the pucks from falling off. The groove isn't actually touching the pinch weld from what I remember.

I've had them on for years and have zero problems. I think there's still strength in the horizontal section especially right near the pinch welds. In contrast, I've seen people haphazardly use ANY horizontal surface which just on one side (inside or outside) of pinch weld and that isn't good.
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Old 01-25-2025, 12:02 AM   #14
DonM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ariZona28 View Post
I was under the impression that the "solid unibody areas" of the 6th Gens are aluminum and not suitable for lifting which is why folks use the pinch weld lifting points.
My 6th gen has some pretty beat up areas where it has been lifted in its 'past life.' More specifically, places on the underbody that LOOK to be good to place a lift/jack, but have been dented in significantly from doing exactly that.
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