[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

If you are going to get into the motor to install a cam then you should do rods and pistons being the engine has to be torn down to the short block anyway for a cam. Many just pull the engine.

It's not nearly that extensive to install a supercharger. You are literally just pulling the intake manifold and balance off.

That being said, the stock fuel system will be maxed on 7psi with pump gas. You really need to upgrade fuel system and run ethanol on a SBE LT1. A cam is certainly not needed...fuel system is.

And a cam with just E85 is also not required but will help with fueling and E85 when you do not use LT4 fuel system components. Such is my case with my setup. IF I want to add more power, I have to do heads, drop in pistons and rods along with a fuel system upgrade so that's about another $6000+ worth of work, and that just gets me ready to run boost above 7psi. And some people suggest using Port injection over direct injection in that case.

So for clarification for the OP since there are a lot of conflicting answers here:

1. Yes you can go with boost only on an LT1
2. No a cam is not required but you'll be limited how much power you can make unless you want to break something in the process.
3. You dont need an LT4 fuel system upgrade again you will be limited how much power you can make unless you want to break something
4. A cam optomizes fuel and power for a super charger and E85
5. A fuel system allows you to run higher boost but with that comes more upgrades
6. Drop in Pistons and Rods unless you want to pop a piston and rod through your engine block with a super charger. (This is suggested because most of the engine needs to be ripped down and will save you money in the long run such as the case with a cam or supercharger)

My engine had to be rebuilt with just CAI, E85, Exhaust, and headers when I popped 2 pistons, 2 rods, and cracked my stock crankshaft. So imagine what a supercharger will do. Crankshaft was probably a freak accident, because its not supposed to break that easily, but such is life. And a camshaft comes with a whole slew of nuances someone like me who knows very little about these things will not expect. Again, in my case camshafts have a natural misfire chracteristic and if you ask most people simply cannot tell you what is normal and what is in't. Right now I have a possible misfire issue with my car, and I've already spent about $2000 trying to diagnose the problem if its mechanical or something in the tune and still have no answers yet. The car runs, but I've been babying the shit out of it keeping it under 3000 rpm's until I figure out what is causing the issue.

Obviously take what I say with a grain of salt, because I appear to be the "Proverbial Lottery Winner" when it comes to basic upgrades.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

And a cam with just E85 is also not required but will help with fueling when you do not use LT4 fuel system components.

You edited your post for clarification and that makes more sense.

The setup still wouldn't tolerate much if any E because the LT1 injector is too small. Even with a bigger cam lobe driving the HPFP. Need LT4 fueling bare bones minimum. The stock fuel system barely supports 93 octane with 7psi.

Yes, it's a slippery slope that's why I suggest doing rods/pistons with the cam the first time.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You edited your post for clarification and that makes more sense.

The setup still wouldn't tolerate much if any E because the LT1 injector is too small. Even with a bigger cam lobe driving the HPFP. Need LT4 fueling bare bones minimum. The stock fuel system barely supports 93 octane with 7psi.

Yes, it's a slippery slope that's why I suggest doing rods/pistons with the cam the first time.

Ya, I wanted to make sure I didn't forget something.

[KingLT1]

Fwiw I have had a Whipple on my SS since 2019. 10 psi and upgraded fuel system running E60 fuel...No issues, the car traps upper 13x in the 1/4 mi, 60-130 low-mid 6's full weight on factory wheels in full street trim. The key to longevity with a boosted SBE LT1 is: Catch can, proper fueling, and Ethanol. They won't last long at all with any oil ingestion, and you have to run very low timing on pump gas which labors the engine to some degree. Trust me when I say, I normally have FlukeSS luck when it comes to modding cars. However, this setup has been great, and I usually make a hard pull or two every time I get it out. At this point I can't be mad at it if it decides to let go.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Fwiw I have had a Whipple on my SS since 2019. 10 psi and upgraded fuel system running E60 fuel...No issues, the car traps upper 13x in the 1/4 mi, 60-130 low-mid 6's full weight on factory wheels in full street trim. The key to longevity with a boosted SBE LT1 is: Catch can, proper fueling, and Ethanol. They won't last long at all with any oil ingestion, and you have to run very low timing on pump gas which labors the engine to some degree. Trust me when I say, I normally have FlukeSS luck when it comes to modding cars. However, this setup has been great, and I usually make a hard pull or two every time I get it out. At this point I can't be mad at it if it decides to let go.

'ing for better luck...

[Ventmaster]

I have no experience with a boosted LT1 but the 3.6L V6 in my 5th Gen got a ProCharger and 9psi at peak RPM. That engine got all the benefits (DI, higher comp.,VVT) that the V8 didn't get until the 6th Gen car. To the best of my knowledge, there are no hi-flow cats that can withstand the heat. They melt down and can block the exhaust altogether. Mine did- Solo HFC's that are quite well made, IMHO but couldn't tolerate the heat. So, I did a cat delete.
I didn't like the raw gas smell that resulted, so I put all 4 OE cats back. They tolerated it fine. I had a spare set of "take-off" cats from a ZL1 but I never needed them. I did not get a before and after dyno, but any real change in performance was not apparent.
Take away- if you do decide to S/C you may want to get some feedback before you swap to high flows with forced induction.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

I have no experience with a boosted LT1 but the 3.6L V6 in my 5th Gen got a ProCharger and 9psi at peak RPM. That engine got all the benefits (DI, higher comp.,VVT) that the V8 didn't get until the 6th Gen car. To the best of my knowledge, there are no hi-flow cats that can withstand the heat. They melt down and can block the exhaust altogether. Mine did- Solo HFC's that are quite well made, IMHO but couldn't tolerate the heat. So, I did a cat delete.
I didn't like the raw gas smell that resulted, so I put all 4 OE cats back. They tolerated it fine. I had a spare set of "take-off" cats from a ZL1 but I never needed them. I did not get a before and after dyno, but any real change in performance was not apparent.
Take away- if you do decide to S/C you may want to get some feedback before you swap to high flows with forced induction.

The GESI Gen2 ultra cats seem to be holding up well over the past year or two that they’ve been out. Rated at 850 HP each.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

The GESI Gen2 ultra cats seem to be holding up well over the past year or two that they’ve been out. Rated at 850 HP each.

Good to know- I'd love to do this someday!