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Old 05-12-2023, 04:18 PM   #1
1sickzl1
 
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1st track day

I finally pulled the trigger to attend my very first HPDE track event on 5/21/23 at Willow Springs raceway. I had to become a member with NASA and I'm starting off with the HPDE1 group. I'll have an instructor in the car with me as well as classroom sessions.

I picked up my car last August and it currently has 6,XXX miles. It is not tuned but has the regular RF intake, Soler TB, and ADM V2 coolant reservoir. I ordered a SNELL rated helmet, and 3 number decals. I'll wait on purchasing a tow hook and use the one GM provided if need be for now.

I'll be changing the oil and differential fluid this weekend. I already changed the transmission fluid a few months ago with Redline ATF. I'm kind of on the fence about flushing / bleeding the brake fluid since the car is fairly new and hasn't really taken any type of braking punishment. Plus since I'm a noob I'm sure I won't be pushing the car too hard and cooking the brake fluid.

Am I forgetting something? Any tips for a first timer? Am I making a mistake not flushing the brake fluid? Any and all input is appreciated!

It would also be sweet to see some fellow members there as well. Any Californians out there who track their car fairly frequently?
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2022 Black ZL1 M6

RF intake, Soler TB & TC, ADM v2 reservoir, AWE Touring non-resonated catback exhaust.

535 whp, 537 tq. SAE Smoothing: 5. DynoJet.
No tune. 91 octane.
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Old 05-12-2023, 04:27 PM   #2
Drnick
 
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Question, does your car insurance cover any mishaps
While your racing, on the track?
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Old 05-12-2023, 04:30 PM   #3
Vigilante375

 
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If the stock brake fluid is in there, change it to DOT 4. The stock fluid will still over heat.

Keep the stock tow hook, it works just fine.

Since it's your first time, don't worry about the track alignment and keep the car in track with suspension, steering and exhaust in track. Get a feel for the car before using PTM, listen to the instructor and have fun.

Be aware that you're going to go through fuel so know where the closest gas station is or if you're trailering the car there, bring extra cans of fuel.
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Old 05-13-2023, 12:32 AM   #4
Camfab
 
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It’s going to warm there next Sunday. You’ll love Willow it’s a really fast track. Be safe.
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Old 05-13-2023, 09:48 AM   #5
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Flush the brake fluid to DOT4. Castrol SRF, Endless 650 or Bremebo HTC64T.
High quality brake fluid is the cheapest insurance you will ever buy when running hard on track. Novices can overheat brakes .
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Old 05-13-2023, 04:14 PM   #6
Camfab
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drnick View Post
Question, does your car insurance cover any mishaps
While your racing, on the track?
While what he is doing is not racing, and can be considered a clinic. Most insurance companies will no longer cover you. It’s always best to check, but most won’t. You can get track day insurance which isn’t cheap, but it’s pennies if you have a collision with an injury and any sort of track side damage. Fortunately Willow has lots of runoff areas.
I never considered track insurance while drag racing, but I can tell you accidents do happen and you’re not going to be covered. I had an 8 sec car next to me on a test and tune day just about take me out. At the 1/8 mile mark I couldn’t figure out where he was until I realized he was flipping over behind my car. I tried to get track day insurance subsequently but never found any company willing to insure the car. Haven’t been back to the strip since.

Last edited by Camfab; 05-13-2023 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 05-13-2023, 04:24 PM   #7
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https://youtu.be/9q_YUC7LlvU
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Old 05-14-2023, 01:59 AM   #8
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You can remove the rain guard from the hood (over the front of the engine). Check the brake pads for at least 6mm of meat left on them.

Check the track prep manual for anything else. Your cold starting tire pressures will probably be in the high 20s psi range. Get used to doing at least one warm up lap before pushing the tires.

Definitely use the rev matching if you have a manual. Saves the clutch and engine.

The track mode just sets the exhaust and steering, maybe the suspension stiffness on the regular ZL1. There is a second set of settings know as Performance Traction Management that affects the handling. You should read up on using it.
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Old 05-14-2023, 06:42 AM   #9
Vigilante375

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wakespeak View Post
You can remove the rain guard from the hood (over the front of the engine). Check the brake pads for at least 6mm of meat left on them.

Check the track prep manual for anything else. Your cold starting tire pressures will probably be in the high 20s psi range. Get used to doing at least one warm up lap before pushing the tires.

Definitely use the rev matching if you have a manual. Saves the clutch and engine.

The track mode just sets the exhaust and steering, maybe the suspension stiffness on the regular ZL1. There is a second set of settings know as Performance Traction Management that affects the handling. You should read up on using it.
Track mode setting only sets the steering, exhaust and suspension (non 1LE) to track IF the setting is set to auto in the infotainment portion. Since I am one of those that unselects the auto setting. Same goes for the other 3 settings.
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Old 05-14-2023, 09:07 AM   #10
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Brake fluid change as others have mentioned is a real good idea. After paying for the day, you don't want to get 3 -4 laps in and find out you have no brakes ending your day early. Track day insurance is not a bad idea. Keep the traction control PTM in the more restrictive settings. Try to stay in track/wet, track/dry for day one at a minimum. If you feel it limiting you, it is because you need to smooth out your inputs to the car. Good luck and have fun.
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Old 05-15-2023, 10:01 AM   #11
clg82

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1sickzl1 View Post
I finally pulled the trigger to attend my very first HPDE track event on 5/21/23 at Willow Springs raceway. I had to become a member with NASA and I'm starting off with the HPDE1 group. I'll have an instructor in the car with me as well as classroom sessions.

I picked up my car last August and it currently has 6,XXX miles. It is not tuned but has the regular RF intake, Soler TB, and ADM V2 coolant reservoir. I ordered a SNELL rated helmet, and 3 number decals. I'll wait on purchasing a tow hook and use the one GM provided if need be for now.

I'll be changing the oil and differential fluid this weekend. I already changed the transmission fluid a few months ago with Redline ATF. I'm kind of on the fence about flushing / bleeding the brake fluid since the car is fairly new and hasn't really taken any type of braking punishment. Plus since I'm a noob I'm sure I won't be pushing the car too hard and cooking the brake fluid.

Am I forgetting something? Any tips for a first timer? Am I making a mistake not flushing the brake fluid? Any and all input is appreciated!

It would also be sweet to see some fellow members there as well. Any Californians out there who track their car fairly frequently?
Are you doing Streets? I'll be there Sunday the 21st at Streets of Willow in my ZL1.
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Old 05-16-2023, 03:14 PM   #12
1sickzl1
 
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Thanks for the recommendations. I'm going to be swapping the OEM brake fluid for Motul RBF 600 fluid just in case. I will be driving in track mode and the brake pads are good to go. I'm not going to be pushing it too hard since I'm just trying to learn for the first time so I may skip on the track day insurance.
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2022 Black ZL1 M6

RF intake, Soler TB & TC, ADM v2 reservoir, AWE Touring non-resonated catback exhaust.

535 whp, 537 tq. SAE Smoothing: 5. DynoJet.
No tune. 91 octane.
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Old 05-16-2023, 03:15 PM   #13
1sickzl1
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
Are you doing Streets? I'll be there Sunday the 21st at Streets of Willow in my ZL1.
I will be going Big Willow. Nice, maybe we can finally meet up and check out the ride.
__________________
2022 Black ZL1 M6

RF intake, Soler TB & TC, ADM v2 reservoir, AWE Touring non-resonated catback exhaust.

535 whp, 537 tq. SAE Smoothing: 5. DynoJet.
No tune. 91 octane.
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Old 05-16-2023, 10:02 PM   #14
cdb95z28


 
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Motul may not be enough for a fast and heavy ZL1. Novices can also put more heat into brakes than advanced drivers. If you feel the pedal softening, back off and cool everything down. Tell the instructor what you are feeling if this is case. Lots of variables ultimately dictate how much and how deep the heat gets into the system.

-Pad fade will be a firm pedal but reduced friction.

-Some very minor pedal softening may occur without getting worse. This can be hot compressibility. The fluid's hydraulic properties change with elevated temps. But once the temp comes down (usually to ambient) the firm pedal returns. Some fluids are better with this than others.

-Fluid boiling will be increased levels of soft to no pedal with reduced or no friction (because the fluid is not transferring force to the calipers). The soft pedal stays after cooling to ambient temp. If this seems to be the case, your day is done. Flush with fresh fluid.
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