2021 SCCA Nationals - Page 3

MatthewAMEL · 09-16-2021, 11:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AustinTXracer

Hope everyone made it home safely! Such mixed results for me. Good at the pro, bad at nats, then good again at the CAM challenge. First run at nats kinda knocked me off my game - the car once again went out with the ediff fully disabled. The video is forthcoming, but it is hilarious how bad the car is at accelerating when the diff goes fully open. Can't even go dead straight without the car spinning one tire or the other. PDR also did the 'no SD card' thing a few separate times.

Have you checked your battery voltage? Friends did OLOA this year and had the same problem with the eDiff. We tried fluid change and ECU reset. Turns out the battery voltage was slightly low. New battery and the eDiff problem went away. These cars have some funky symptoms when it comes to electrics.

DaveC113 · 09-17-2021, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Have you checked your battery voltage? Friends did OLOA this year and had the same problem with the eDiff. We tried fluid change and ECU reset. Turns out the battery voltage was slightly low. New battery and the eDiff problem went away. These cars have some funky symptoms when it comes to electrics.

Ah, it was your post I remembered... I mentioned this in the other autox thread.

I took my car in for the 3rd time for the battery not holding a charge and they finally replaced it. The brand new battery took a while to fully charge with a 5A CTek charger, at this point I have to wonder if the OEM alternator is putting out sufficient amps to maintain the battery properly. I think regularly charging may help extend the life of the battery and prevent these low voltage incidents. I once measured 12.05V (!) and once had the message come up on the dash "Battery Tender Activated" or something like that before I got the charger.

MatthewAMEL · 09-17-2021, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Ah, it was your post I remembered... I mentioned this in the other autox thread.

I took my car in for the 3rd time for the battery not holding a charge and they finally replaced it. The brand new battery took a while to fully charge with a 5A CTek charger, at this point I have to wonder if the OEM alternator is putting out sufficient amps to maintain the battery properly. I think regularly charging may help extend the life of the battery and prevent these low voltage incidents. I once measured 12.05V (!) and once had the message come up on the dash "Battery Tender Activated" or something like that before I got the charger.

I am suspect about the 'smart charging' system in the 6th Gen. I have had my car since November of 2016 and I'm on my 4th battery.

The good news is they have all been replaced under warranty.

My charging/electric system never throws codes and tests fine, but something is going on with the battery system.

AustinTXracer · 09-17-2021, 02:12 PM

What do you guys say when you go to the dealer to have the battery replaced? Last thing I want to say to them is that my ediff occasionally doesn't come on. It starts the car reliably and it never notifies me of issues.

SCCAForums · 09-17-2021, 06:47 PM

John, my dealer still said my 'dead' batter 'passed their stress test'. It took almost 12 hours for it to pass... but passed. I was fortunate enough to have a 'friend' do the right thing, and replace the battery.

But from what I've seen, even from someone 'trying to do me a solid'... the testing doesn't result in recreating the real world load that are cars create.

If you are having 'any' weird electrical fault errors... replace the battery... just go to AutoZone/Oreilly/Advanced Auto, and replace. Error should go away... and car will be perfect again.

I'm the one that 'literally' hauled two batteries around the entire One Lap of America event... after my trans and e-diff freaked out while driving down the interstate.

Let us know how it goes!

Best regards,
Dave

clyde · 09-17-2021, 07:39 PM

Was this a one time thing or is it happening intermittently? (Can't remember if you said either way.) If it was the first time, I'd probably wait before doing anything. Every modern car I've owned has had some kind of one-time electrical flake out. After the second time, I'd start trying to address it.

If I knew someone at Chevy dealer that I thought might be able and willing to make a warranty replacement happen, I'd try that route. If not, I'd probably just swap the battery on my own. While I'm very cheap and hate spending extra money, a new battery isn't *that* expensive, I can do it on my schedule and not waste any time at a dealership.

clyde · 09-19-2021, 07:42 AM

Videos of my fastest clean runs on both courses with some reach out and smack you in the face time-adding mistakes. My quick runs on each course were dirty because of course they were.

West Course
56.009

East Course
63.188

09-17-2021, 02:12 PM	#32
AustinTXracer Drives: 20 SS 1LE Join Date: Jun 2020 Location: ATX Posts: 120	What do you guys say when you go to the dealer to have the battery replaced? Last thing I want to say to them is that my ediff occasionally doesn't come on. It starts the car reliably and it never notifies me of issues. __________________ John Hale multi time solo nats runner up :(

09-17-2021, 06:47 PM	#33
SCCAForums Drives: Chevrolet Camaro, Ford Mustang Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: AZ Posts: 388	John, my dealer still said my 'dead' batter 'passed their stress test'. It took almost 12 hours for it to pass... but passed. I was fortunate enough to have a 'friend' do the right thing, and replace the battery. But from what I've seen, even from someone 'trying to do me a solid'... the testing doesn't result in recreating the real world load that are cars create. If you are having 'any' weird electrical fault errors... replace the battery... just go to AutoZone/Oreilly/Advanced Auto, and replace. Error should go away... and car will be perfect again. I'm the one that 'literally' hauled two batteries around the entire One Lap of America event... after my trans and e-diff freaked out while driving down the interstate. Let us know how it goes! Best regards, Dave __________________ 2022 SS 1LE - Vivid Orange - SCCA CAM-C & Optima Ultimate Street Car GT Katech, MSD, QA1, Hurst, Anderson Composites, ProParts USA Custom Suspension, MFR Engineering, Forgeline Wheels, G-Loc Brakes, Nine Lives Racing, MTX Audio, Penske Rapid Repair

09-17-2021, 07:39 PM	#34
clyde Drives: broken Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: DC Posts: 186	Was this a one time thing or is it happening intermittently? (Can't remember if you said either way.) If it was the first time, I'd probably wait before doing anything. Every modern car I've owned has had some kind of one-time electrical flake out. After the second time, I'd start trying to address it. If I knew someone at Chevy dealer that I thought might be able and willing to make a warranty replacement happen, I'd try that route. If not, I'd probably just swap the battery on my own. While I'm very cheap and hate spending extra money, a new battery isn't that expensive, I can do it on my schedule and not waste any time at a dealership. __________________ clyde Team WTF?! what are you gonna do? :dunno:

09-19-2021, 07:42 AM	#35
clyde Drives: broken Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: DC Posts: 186	Videos of my fastest clean runs on both courses with some reach out and smack you in the face time-adding mistakes. My quick runs on each course were dirty because of course they were. West Course 56.009 East Course 63.188 __________________ clyde Team WTF?! what are you gonna do? :dunno:

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