[BLUPASTU]

Hey guys - so I had researched this site for days looking for information on how to do this install, thanks to all! I had many questions such as the artificial engine sounds playing through the speakers to whether I would lose functions like hands free or my turn signal sounds. Here's what I discovered - please correct me if you know different, but I hope these findings will help someone looking to do a similar install.

I searched the net and this site to figure out which camaros have the engine sounds pumped into the speakers. I think the SS has a physical pipe that sends sound to a hole in the firewall. Mine has been blocked due to the CAI. I think the 4cyl turbo has the soundtrack that plays over the speakers. After I installed this system, I did not notice any engine sounds playing through the subs. I wonder if it's the Bose-only systems that do this?

Will I lose hands free, blinkers, etc? In my case no. I have not seen a reason to disconnect the mics in the doors yet or unplugging the harness from the factory amp. All music seems to play fine and the subs hit really hard. I did have to play with the line inputs on the LC7i and the amp gain to get the door chimes to a manageable level, but they are fine now and there's still plenty of gain.

Before the system install, I wanted to see if replacing the rear side speakers would make any difference to the weak sound in back. I discovered the factory pieces were only 20w. I used roadkill all around the speakers and installed a pair of Sony 6.5" 45w RMS triaxles and boy what a difference! Even with only the factory amp, they were MUCH louder than the factory crap speakers. I left the front door speakers in place for now, but plan to replace those and the tweeters in the dash soon.

The basic install went like this. First, I want to give credit to wal-dog for his awesome information, diagrams and examples. I could not have done this without that info! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=459430

After the install of the Sony rear side speakers, I connected and labeled the speaker wires coming FROM the factory amp and set those aside. I then connected and labeled speaker wires TO the front and rear speakers. I spliced them in but it would have probably been easier to use an adapter. Still, it was only an hour of work.

I then wired the speaker wires from the factory amp into the LC7i. Fronts to LC7i main channel, rears to channel 2. Then I wired the speaker wires to the front and rear speakers to the Alpine amp speaker outputs. Next was powering the Alpine and LC7i. I ran an 8 gauge to the battery and to an 80amp fuse, then to the Alpine. From the Apline power, I ran a 14 gauge wire under the amp board over to the LC7i.

The LC7i has audio signal sensing to power itself on and a great feature for outputting a remote on signal to power on other devices. I ran a blue remote power wire from the remote out on the LC7i to the Alpine remote and another one for later use with the Bazooka amp. The last thing I always do is connect grounds because as long as the amps are not grounded yet, you can accidentally touch the power wires to them without worrying about frying something. I left grounds for last.

Next was RCA out from LC7i to the Alpine. The cool thing about the LC7i is from the factory, it auto-routes sub signals from channel 2 to channel 3. Since I never heard very much bass from the rear speakers, I was worried the factory amp was crossing those signals out. Even if it was, LC7i to the rescue as it rebuilds bass with AccuBass. If the factory amp is rolling off the bass, the LC7i rebuilds it!

Next was to ground everything and test front and rear speakers. WOW! They are very loud now. I had the Alpine set about halfway on gain and the door chimes actually hurt my ears! I played with the input signals on the LC7i and the Alpine gain to get tolerable chimes but still very good quality and loud music.

Next, I installed the sub box with fairly inexpensive Kenwood 12" SVC 4 ohm subs. In the box, I wired them for 2 ohms. I ran power and the remote signal I saved earlier behind the passenger rear wheel well trim. I ran the RCA input behind the driver side trim to keep it away from power wires. Hooked up my ground for the old school Bazooka amp and BAM, done. The bass is fantastic for a sealed rearfiring box. Very happy with it. It seems all MyLink options are intact.

Note for those interested in this, put the sub box into the trunk via the hole behind the back seats. It won't fit through the trunk lid I tried lol.

Some pics. I hope this helps anyone interested in DIY.

[oOKhanhOo]

If you plan to redo the whole audio, use the PAC AP4-GM61. It'll give out flat/clean RCA signals. Plus you can manually adjust the chime volume.

For the speakers, to "clean up" or just use the factory wires. Get the T-Harness from subth/ump.com (remove the slant). and they have the ANC delete too, all plug N play.

I plan to do my whole audio system and won't have to splice/cut into the factory wirings.

[BLUPASTU]

Excellent info, thanks! I ended up removing the wiring harness connector from the old rear speakers and soldered them to the new speaker wires so I can at least keep the factory connections. Does the PAC AP4-GM61 also work with the non-Bose system?

[oOKhanhOo]

Originally Posted by BLUPASTU

Excellent info, thanks! I ended up removing the wiring harness connector from the old rear speakers and soldered them to the new speaker wires so I can at least keep the factory connections. Does the PAC AP4-GM61 also work with the non-Bose system?

Yes, according to this video:



I have the 1SS 1LE, 8" screen but no amp, non-bose, not even in the trunk. I believe it comes down to the radio tuner module behind the glovebox. as long as its a IO5/6, it will work. I just bought the AP4-GM61, got it before it jump up to almost $400. Plan to do mine once its warmer.

[BLUPASTU]

That's an awesome video. So far no issues but maybe later when I replace the door/dash speakers with better pieces, I'll spring for the PAC and do it right. It would be nice to get the full gain on the Alpine without door chimes that break eardrums!

[drfeelgood]

I think we have beat the audio install thing to death on here. Wish there was a way to put all of the builds together and separate them based on iOS and BOSE vs non BOSE.

A lot of small differences between installs and presence or absence of ANC mics, etc.

I think we continue to see that, The PAC AP4-GM61 units remains the absolute best and most cost efficient way to do an install on these vehicles, and retain all sounds and chimes ,regardless of BOSE/NON-BOSE amp , whether or not you are using an additional DSP or not

[oOKhanhOo]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

I think we have beat the audio install thing to death on here. Wish there was a way to put all of the builds together and separate them based on iOS and BOSE vs non BOSE.

A lot of small differences between installs and presence or absence of ANC mics, etc.

I think we continue to see that, The PAC AP4-GM61 units remains the absolute best and most cost efficient way to do an install on these vehicles, and retain all sounds and chimes ,regardless of BOSE/NON-BOSE amp , whether or not you are using an additional DSP or not

Yeah, there need to be a FAQ sticky thread

[BLUPASTU]

Totally agree, how can we go about doing that? I am new to the site, used to be all over ls1tech when I had my 2000 SS, but I've been out of the forum scene for a long time.

[StPeteHyper2.0]

I did a write up on my non-bose install also. Not sure if you had found it, but I have trouble with searching things on here as well. Seems like when you really want to find something specific it becomes harder to find. Nice install, looks excellent and hope it sounds as good as it looks

[BLUPASTU]

Thanks, it does sound really good for only $400 invested. I already had the Alpine and Bazooka amps, which saved a lot. I think the door speakers and tweeters in the dash are a bit "in your face" and "tin-can-y" but I figure when I replace those with good speakers and roadkill it, it should be just right. I just found your post - yeah, that was one of the ones I looked at closely. Very nice work and I bet it sounds great. Quick question, the block to the right of your amp, that shows some kind of readout. What is that?

[StPeteHyper2.0]

It's the dash speakers.. they're small 2.5" speakers. Any bass that makes it thru to them distorts them. Replace them with a component tweeter and you will be good even with stock doors.

It is a dual fuse block that gives a digital voltage. When I was searching for fuse blocks, I just thought it was a cool affect.

[Naptown Josh]

I did the same install on my LT. Kinda regret using the LC7i instead of the PAC AP4-GM61 for anybody thinking about doing an upgrade.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by Naptown Josh

I did the same install on my LT. Kinda regret using the LC7i instead of the PAC AP4-GM61 for anybody thinking about doing an upgrade.

you can always make the upgrade now. I think you'll appreciate the difference!

[wal-dog]

Great job BLUPASTU! Haven't been on in awhile. Mine is still working great. I did mine before the sub-thump harness was invented so I had to splice everything.