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Old 05-08-2017, 01:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram View Post
I have a regular 2SS, and my left front endlink was the same way. Heard a clunk over bumps with the left front at first. Then, it progressed to be either front tire.

Got under the car with the right front jacked up, but nothing seemed loose. So, I took it to the dealership. They reported back and initially said that they could find nothing loose, but could hear the noise.

Later in the day, they said they'd found the loose endlink. Evidently, with the wheels hanging free, there was no play in the endlink. But, when the weight of the car was on it, it would be loose. They only found it when they put it on a drive-on lift. Couldn't see it on a regular 2-post lift.

So, if have this problem and can't find it with the car jacked up, try it with the car on the ground.
Yes, it only does when there's a load on suspension (most noticeable when going over bumps). My buddy and I were scratching our heads when it happened after my first event on the way back. I jacked the car up but couldn't replicate the noise/clunk then I came across that video
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Old 05-08-2017, 06:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
Yes, it only does when there's a load on suspension (most noticeable when going over bumps). My buddy and I were scratching our heads when it happened after my first event on the way back. I jacked the car up but couldn't replicate the noise/clunk then I came across that video
I checked mine this afternoon after work, and sure enough the driver side was loose. I tightened it up several turns before I got torque on it. The passenger side was tight, but I did note that that side had a blue paint smeared on it (not Loctite.) The driver side had no blue paint. The paint was just brushed across the parts as if to note if anything moved over time. The driver side had not a smidge. Driver side guy musta been asleep at the wheel come torqueing time!

I'm gonna clean up and drive it here in a bit to check for the rattle.

Tara
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Old 05-08-2017, 08:47 PM   #17
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Anyone know why youtube vidoes show as a white box for me on this site?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 2K16SummitSS View Post
I don't have a 1LE, but I am getting a clicking/tapping noise on the front end driver side, especially on tight right turns. This is with normal driving, no track time. I will have to check this out. I may opt to take it to the dealer just so they can log it in the system and maybe help to get a TSB out at least.
There is a TSB on this, its a different problem. Its caused by the grease they put between the hub and wheel. Take the wheel off, clean all that off and reinstall the wheel. Yes, really, this is what causes it!
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:05 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Tara Martin View Post
I checked mine this afternoon after work, and sure enough the driver side was loose. I tightened it up several turns before I got torque on it. The passenger side was tight, but I did note that that side had a blue paint smeared on it (not Loctite.) The driver side had no blue paint. The paint was just brushed across the parts as if to note if anything moved over time. The driver side had not a smidge. Driver side guy musta been asleep at the wheel come torqueing time!

I'm gonna clean up and drive it here in a bit to check for the rattle.

Tara
Glad, it worked for you and I agree with your comment on that driver side guy
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Old 05-08-2017, 10:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Tara Martin View Post
I checked mine this afternoon after work, and sure enough the driver side was loose. I tightened it up several turns before I got torque on it. The passenger side was tight, but I did note that that side had a blue paint smeared on it (not Loctite.) The driver side had no blue paint. The paint was just brushed across the parts as if to note if anything moved over time. The driver side had not a smidge. Driver side guy musta been asleep at the wheel come torqueing time!

I'm gonna clean up and drive it here in a bit to check for the rattle.

Tara
I just got back home from dinner. The re-torqueing worked, no more clunking! Saved a trip to the bumper car stealership!

Tara
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:13 AM   #20
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There is a TSB on this, its a different problem. Its caused by the grease they put between the hub and wheel. Take the wheel off, clean all that off and reinstall the wheel. Yes, really, this is what causes it!
Yep, I found the other thread on it, all good now
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Old 05-12-2017, 06:42 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamcem View Post
This happened to me after the first track event on the way back and it seems like a common issue. So far I've heard from 4-5 1LE owners saying that they heard a loud metal clunking noise/rattle from the front side of the car.

I jacked the car on my way back home to see if anything loose and thought this might be a blown strut but I wasn't sure since I knew that I never hit a pot hole or expected on a car with only 1600 miles on it. It was more noticeable when going over little bumps (when there's tension on them)

You may start reading from post #41 and 42 here:
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...=484731&page=3

and video showing that (thanks to AZ_1LE for sharing the video):


In my case, upper end links on both side were loose, it seems like they're not torqued enough from factory . I searched and found that the Gen 5 endlinks torque specs were 36lb/ft torque and just torques them to 38 lb/ft with my torque wrench just to make sure.

You will need a 6mm allen key (inside the bolt) and 18mm socket for the nut that goes over the endlinks to tighten them.

I am surprised by the fact that there's no recall or TSB about this yet
HA I have 1639 miles on my car and I started hearing a clunk in the front... didn't feel it in the floor or though my pedals... can't hear it over every bump or when swerving right/left repeatedly but over small irregularities in the road and such it was making it pretty frequently. I remember a set of endlinks I installed myself on an '09 STI made a very similar sound .. thought i'd look to see if it's a common problem because it seems weird to have a problem with only a few "canyon runs" and no actual track or even autox time! ugh.

thanks for the post man!
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Old 05-13-2017, 12:31 AM   #22
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I started noticing this last week. It progressed to the point where I thought something was going to fall apart. Only 2600 miles. Brought it to the dealer today under warranty and mentioned what I had read on the Internet. Sure enough one end link was loose. Apparently they didn't need my help - just referred to the service bulletin. Strange that cars keep coming from the factory with the sway bars not adequately tightened. Anyway, thanks for the heads up. So nice to have my sweet ride back...
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Old 05-14-2017, 01:22 AM   #23
Tara Martin
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I just got back home from dinner. The re-torqueing worked, no more clunking! Saved a trip to the bumper car stealership!

Tara
Weeeell, there was no more clunking for a few days anyway. When I tightened the driver side sway bar link, I didn't have any LockTite, so it rapidly appeared to loosen and today it was rattling as bad as it originally did. Tomorrow I'll try again, this time with thread locker.

Does anyone have a copy of the TSP on this issue?

Thanks,

Tara
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Old 05-14-2017, 02:08 AM   #24
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got under my car and tried to tighten these... first attempt at going up on ramps was a bust... literally.. used boards and my rhino ramps and of course I shoved a ramp and then slipped off, came down and cracked the front splitter thing... water came pouring out of it that I suspect was just from rain or something... didn't look like there was any other damage. so irritating!

then I decided to just see what I could do with the car on the ground to avoid the ramps (which I've used plenty times with success, btw). I put the wheel in full lock left and right to get a better view of the endlinks... all seemed tight. thought maybe having the wheel turned removed slack so I put the wheel straight and everything still seems pretty snug although it's hard to snake my arm and a wrench around the wheel with the car on the ground.

ugh. 1600 miles on a car that hasn't been tracked and it's already forcing me to futz with stuff to fix it in my garage... not a fan of that and I've gotten rid of cars for less of a reason before.... I really want to track this thing but if parts are going to start falling off ... I just don't know.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:07 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by evanescent03 View Post
got under my car and tried to tighten these... first attempt at going up on ramps was a bust... literally.. used boards and my rhino ramps and of course I shoved a ramp and then slipped off, came down and cracked the front splitter thing... water came pouring out of it that I suspect was just from rain or something... didn't look like there was any other damage. so irritating!

then I decided to just see what I could do with the car on the ground to avoid the ramps (which I've used plenty times with success, btw). I put the wheel in full lock left and right to get a better view of the endlinks... all seemed tight. thought maybe having the wheel turned removed slack so I put the wheel straight and everything still seems pretty snug although it's hard to snake my arm and a wrench around the wheel with the car on the ground.

ugh. 1600 miles on a car that hasn't been tracked and it's already forcing me to futz with stuff to fix it in my garage... not a fan of that and I've gotten rid of cars for less of a reason before.... I really want to track this thing but if parts are going to start falling off ... I just don't know.
I know it's very frustrating, dealing with this. This and the wiring harness issue but I think it's just bad luck as it seems like most owners didn't experience this. Those are just little hiccups and I didn't let those change my mind on this car.

I think your best bet is to find a proper way to jack the car, remove the wheels, apply some blue loctite and torque ( you may refer to my build thread for good seat of jack stands that work with ZL1addons jack points). If you don't have the tools you can always use your factory warranty at a reputable dealer service in your area. I've been really happy with the car at the track ever since I fixed those little things. Hopefully these will be the end of the problems
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:35 AM   #26
Tara Martin
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Weeeell, there was no more clunking for a few days anyway. When I tightened the driver side sway bar link, I didn't have any LockTite, so it rapidly appeared to loosen and today it was rattling as bad as it originally did. Tomorrow I'll try again, this time with thread locker.

Does anyone have a copy of the TSP on this issue?

Thanks,

Tara
At least it was easier the second time! This time the driver side was loose. Last time it seemed to just be under-torqued. I don't want it coming loose again, so I used LockTite Red!

So far, so good! I hope it lasts this time.

Tara
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Old 05-18-2017, 04:09 PM   #27
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Don't be this guy (me) and make the same mistake

I was bleeding the brakes and wanted to apply some blue loctite on the swaybar endlinks since the car was already on the jacks.

I couldn't find the torque specs of the stabilizer/end links so I referred to previous gen Camaro's specs and used 38 lb/ft torque initially. Then, recently one of the forum members (cannot recall who) mentioned that he learned that the torque specs and it should be 65-70 lb/ft and it shouldn't be that low.

I thought it sounded a bit on the high side but it shouldn't hurt to torque them a bit more (50lb/ft ) since it's a 18mm bolt and nut right? RIGHT? Wrong

Long story short don't make the same mistake and over torque them. In the meantime if anyone can tell me the "real "torque values of these, I'd highly appreciate it. And of course, it happened right before my scheduled event this Saturday . I called the dealership this morning and ordered two of those endlinks, even though the passenger side is fine for now. Hopefully they will be there to pick up tomorrow morning as they said and I can quickly put them on and be on my way for the weekend event at the ORP.

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Old 05-19-2017, 07:32 AM   #28
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Sorry that broke on ya... don't know what they should be, but given that it broke when you tried to go to 50; you were probably pretty darn close at 38. Also, it may have broke from being stressed from being loose... Just a thought, when you're at the dealership, ask the service folks to look up the torque spec for that.

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