[LOW01]

Originally Posted by PowerDemon

That looks fantastic! What’s your suspension setup?

Just stock mag ride with Eibach lowering springs.

[Speedysteve77]

Originally Posted by shippingguy

Looks really good. What decals did you use for the calipers? Did you clear over the decals?

The folks at F14 did the powdercoating, graphics and clear work

[Speedysteve77]

Ok, folks. For those waiting for more info, here you go..... Also as a caveat here i am speaking first hand as it relates to a 2023 1LE model and confirmed compatibility.... Essentially the stock 1LE front is 390mmx36, and going to the CCB i am at 394mmx36, the rear was 365mmx28 and going to CCB increased to 390mmx32.5mm.

Front - You will need to replace rotors and pads only.
Rotors - Application C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 19207042 /AC Delco#171-1010. You will need to swap the rotor hats and re-use your factory 1LE hats, but use the ZR1 hardware and disc. It will be a tight fit, that does need some persuading, but it 100% works.
Pads - C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 84023643/AC Delco#177-1120. You will not be using the pad sensors that come with the ZR1 pads.

For me, i did procure new factory 1LE calipers as i was powdercoating my body color and did want to have an unmolested full factory set.

Rear - You will need to replace Pads, rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bolts (factory ones were too long for me and we barely touching back of rotor once tightened)
Rotors - 2015 Z/28 GM # 22958647/AC Delco # 177-1165, this is direct fit and no mods need to be done
Pads - 2015 z/28 GM# 22990625/ AC Delco # 171-1134, again you will not be using the pad sensors.
Calipers - C7 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM# 84207628/AC Delco # 172-2858 for right side, GM # 842207627/ AC Delco # 172-2857 for the left. I used the black ones as they were cheapest and i knew i was changing the color, however you can use any of the colors from c7 ZR1 as long as its the ceramic brake option (J57).
Caliper Bolts - This one is a weird one i still dont completely understand. The factory bolts on my vehicle were too long and when tightened fully with the new brake setup, they were just barely touching the back of the rotor. However, this is where it gets weird.... I opted to just order another set of factory 1LE bolts, which according to GM are #11570091. So when i compared to the bolts that came off my car, low and behold they were about 6 mm shorter, which was perfect... Now i could have used a thick washer with my original bolts, but this was ended up perfect...

All in all, everything bolted up great and after bleeding everything and road testing, i can feel a difference. Particularly in a "lighter" feel, especially up front. This is probably due to the ~37.5 lbs savings in the front, and ~18lb savings in the rear. The weight savings i list here is all the rotors from steel to CC. Brake wise i do feel like they are very comparable to stock, maybe a tad spongy when they are cold, but once the carbon ceramic warms up a little bit, man do they bite! This is my personal assessment, and on the street. On a race track, and under severe use, im sure there may be different opinions. I can also say, so far, i am seeing zero dust and zero noise..... Albeit i am still in the process of going through the fairly labor intensive process of burnishing in the brakes, and without getting arrested for reckless driving!!!! Also, another point to mention here is i can fully confirm all other factory options on the vehicle work, including hill assist and the electronic ebrake, as well as not getting any warning lights in the vehicle. I have listed a table below with some other information on part numbers and notes i was taking during my research. There are likely other options you can use from other vehicles than what i listed, my reason for choosing what i did was trying to balance cost and which ones were cheapest and most easily available. Worst part for me was being a little nutted on rear rotor choices. I am more than glad to answer any other questions folks may have, so fire away!!!!

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by Speedysteve77

Ok, folks. For those waiting for more info, here you go..... Also as a caveat here i am speaking first hand as it relates to a 2023 1LE model and confirmed compatibility.... Essentially the stock 1LE front is 390mmx36, and going to the CCB i am at 394mmx36, the rear was 365mmx28 and going to CCB increased to 390mmx32.5mm.

Front - You will need to replace rotors and pads only.
Rotors - Application C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 19207042 /AC Delco#171-1010. You will need to swap the rotor hats and re-use your factory 1LE hats, but use the ZR1 hardware and disc. It will be a tight fit, that does need some persuading, but it 100% works.
Pads - C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 84023643/AC Delco#177-1120. You will not be using the pad sensors that come with the ZR1 pads.

For me, i did procure new factory 1LE calipers as i was powdercoating my body color and did want to have an unmolested full factory set.

Rear - You will need to replace Pads, rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bolts (factory ones were too long for me and we barely touching back of rotor once tightened)
Rotors - 2015 Z/28 GM # 22958647/AC Delco # 177-1165, this is direct fit and no mods need to be done
Pads - 2015 z/28 GM# 22990625/ AC Delco # 171-1134, again you will not be using the pad sensors.
Calipers - C7 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM# 84207628/AC Delco # 172-2858 for right side, GM # 842207627/ AC Delco # 172-2857 for the left. I used the black ones as they were cheapest and i knew i was changing the color, however you can use any of the colors from c7 ZR1 as long as its the ceramic brake option (J57).
Caliper Bolts - This one is a weird one i still dont completely understand. The factory bolts on my vehicle were too long and when tightened fully with the new brake setup, they were just barely touching the back of the rotor. However, this is where it gets weird.... I opted to just order another set of factory 1LE bolts, which according to GM are #11570091. So when i compared to the bolts that came off my car, low and behold they were about 6 mm shorter, which was perfect... Now i could have used a thick washer with my original bolts, but this was ended up perfect...

All in all, everything bolted up great and after bleeding everything and road testing, i can feel a difference. Particularly in a "lighter" feel, especially up front. This is probably due to the ~37.5 lbs savings in the front, and ~18lb savings in the rear. The weight savings i list here is all the rotors from steel to CC. Brake wise i do feel like they are very comparable to stock, maybe a tad spongy when they are cold, but once the carbon ceramic warms up a little bit, man do they bite! This is my personal assessment, and on the street. On a race track, and under severe use, im sure there may be different opinions. I can also say, so far, i am seeing zero dust and zero noise..... Albeit i am still in the process of going through the fairly labor intensive process of burnishing in the brakes, and without getting arrested for reckless driving!!!! Also, another point to mention here is i can fully confirm all other factory options on the vehicle work, including hill assist and the electronic ebrake, as well as not getting any warning lights in the vehicle. I have listed a table below with some other information on part numbers and notes i was taking during my research. There are likely other options you can use from other vehicles than what i listed, my reason for choosing what i did was trying to balance cost and which ones were cheapest and most easily available. Worst part for me was being a little nutted on rear rotor choices. I am more than glad to answer any other questions folks may have, so fire away!!!!

That has to be the single best upgrade you could possibly do to the car. Having the BCD option in my mind makes me think I’d have to wade in uncharted territory with the Cadillac brakes. Excellent execution on your part, I absolutely love it, factory parts Zero aftermarket.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by Speedysteve77

Ok, folks. For those waiting for more info, here you go..... Also as a caveat here i am speaking first hand as it relates to a 2023 1LE model and confirmed compatibility.... Essentially the stock 1LE front is 390mmx36, and going to the CCB i am at 394mmx36, the rear was 365mmx28 and going to CCB increased to 390mmx32.5mm.

Front - You will need to replace rotors and pads only.
Rotors - Application C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 19207042 /AC Delco#171-1010. You will need to swap the rotor hats and re-use your factory 1LE hats, but use the ZR1 hardware and disc. It will be a tight fit, that does need some persuading, but it 100% works.
Pads - C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 84023643/AC Delco#177-1120. You will not be using the pad sensors that come with the ZR1 pads.

For me, i did procure new factory 1LE calipers as i was powdercoating my body color and did want to have an unmolested full factory set.

Rear - You will need to replace Pads, rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bolts (factory ones were too long for me and we barely touching back of rotor once tightened)
Rotors - 2015 Z/28 GM # 22958647/AC Delco # 177-1165, this is direct fit and no mods need to be done
Pads - 2015 z/28 GM# 22990625/ AC Delco # 171-1134, again you will not be using the pad sensors.
Calipers - C7 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM# 84207628/AC Delco # 172-2858 for right side, GM # 842207627/ AC Delco # 172-2857 for the left. I used the black ones as they were cheapest and i knew i was changing the color, however you can use any of the colors from c7 ZR1 as long as its the ceramic brake option (J57).
Caliper Bolts - This one is a weird one i still dont completely understand. The factory bolts on my vehicle were too long and when tightened fully with the new brake setup, they were just barely touching the back of the rotor. However, this is where it gets weird.... I opted to just order another set of factory 1LE bolts, which according to GM are #11570091. So when i compared to the bolts that came off my car, low and behold they were about 6 mm shorter, which was perfect... Now i could have used a thick washer with my original bolts, but this was ended up perfect...

All in all, everything bolted up great and after bleeding everything and road testing, i can feel a difference. Particularly in a "lighter" feel, especially up front. This is probably due to the ~37.5 lbs savings in the front, and ~18lb savings in the rear. The weight savings i list here is all the rotors from steel to CC. Brake wise i do feel like they are very comparable to stock, maybe a tad spongy when they are cold, but once the carbon ceramic warms up a little bit, man do they bite! This is my personal assessment, and on the street. On a race track, and under severe use, im sure there may be different opinions. I can also say, so far, i am seeing zero dust and zero noise..... Albeit i am still in the process of going through the fairly labor intensive process of burnishing in the brakes, and without getting arrested for reckless driving!!!! Also, another point to mention here is i can fully confirm all other factory options on the vehicle work, including hill assist and the electronic ebrake, as well as not getting any warning lights in the vehicle. I have listed a table below with some other information on part numbers and notes i was taking during my research. There are likely other options you can use from other vehicles than what i listed, my reason for choosing what i did was trying to balance cost and which ones were cheapest and most easily available. Worst part for me was being a little nutted on rear rotor choices. I am more than glad to answer any other questions folks may have, so fire away!!!!

Quality content! A++

Let us know how they work at a Track Day.

The tight fit on the rotor hats does concern me. I wonder how things would fare when the brakes get extremely hot and the metal expands.

[Speedysteve77]

Originally Posted by NG329

Quality content! A++

Let us know how they work at a Track Day.

The tight fit on the rotor hats does concern me. I wonder how things would fare when the brakes get extremely hot and the metal expands.

Well, i may share your concern if i was running the vehicle extremely hard, however i dont intend to. Also, i dont forsee the thermal expansion being great enough to cause an issue. Considering its still mounted to an aluminum hat, that when hot will have some give also. I would have some concern if it was a steel hat and had a tight fit.

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by Speedysteve77

Well, i may share your concern if i was running the vehicle extremely hard, however i dont intend to. Also, i dont forsee the thermal expansion being great enough to cause an issue. Considering its still mounted to an aluminum hat, that when hot will have some give also. I would have some concern if it was a steel hat and had a tight fit.

Steel will expand far less than Aluminum.

[Speedysteve77]

Originally Posted by Camfab

Steel will expand far less than Aluminum.

Understood, but thats not what i was getting at. Aluminum is softer perse and is more forgiving from a flex standpoint. When i said it was tighter assembling, it was just that. Nothing alarming just a little tighter when using the hardware and inserts that align and hold the hat to the CCB discs. By no means do i have any concerns or i would not have proceeded. If i was concerned, i would have increased the clearance on the hats where the hardware/inserts slide into the notches of the hat. This can easily be done on my computerized mill. However i did not feel the need.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by Speedysteve77

Understood, but thats not what i was getting at. Aluminum is softer perse and is more forgiving from a flex standpoint. When i said it was tighter assembling, it was just that. Nothing alarming just a little tighter when using the hardware and inserts that align and hold the hat to the CCB discs. By no means do i have any concerns or i would not have proceeded. If i was concerned, i would have increased the clearance on the hats where the hardware/inserts slide into the notches of the hat. This can easily be done on my computerized mill. However i did not feel the need.

Yeah. This is the thing that honestly gives me pause. I would love the unsprung weight savings for track use, but those tolerances are dialed in from the manufacturer. The ZL1-1LE generates hella heat from the brakes, tires, and engine under hard use..... and in all fairness, there are some threads (not in this forum) about catastrophic rotor failures on track. ...likely due to guys not assembling the rotor discs correctly on the hats.

For what you're planning to do with the car, like you said, you'll probably be fine. Me on the other hand, I'll brake from 150mph at least 60x at a typical track day.

In the past I've considered having a CCB manufacturer develop a set for me but wimped out due to cost.

[20Bluezl1]

Looks amazing would love some feedback if you do track days.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by Speedysteve77

Ok, folks. For those waiting for more info, here you go..... Also as a caveat here i am speaking first hand as it relates to a 2023 1LE model and confirmed compatibility.... Essentially the stock 1LE front is 390mmx36, and going to the CCB i am at 394mmx36, the rear was 365mmx28 and going to CCB increased to 390mmx32.5mm.

Front - You will need to replace rotors and pads only.
Rotors - Application C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 19207042 /AC Delco#171-1010. You will need to swap the rotor hats and re-use your factory 1LE hats, but use the ZR1 hardware and disc. It will be a tight fit, that does need some persuading, but it 100% works.
Pads - C6 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM # 84023643/AC Delco#177-1120. You will not be using the pad sensors that come with the ZR1 pads.

For me, i did procure new factory 1LE calipers as i was powdercoating my body color and did want to have an unmolested full factory set.

Rear - You will need to replace Pads, rotors, calipers, and caliper mounting bolts (factory ones were too long for me and we barely touching back of rotor once tightened)
Rotors - 2015 Z/28 GM # 22958647/AC Delco # 177-1165, this is direct fit and no mods need to be done
Pads - 2015 z/28 GM# 22990625/ AC Delco # 171-1134, again you will not be using the pad sensors.
Calipers - C7 ZR1 (J57 brake option code i think), GM# 84207628/AC Delco # 172-2858 for right side, GM # 842207627/ AC Delco # 172-2857 for the left. I used the black ones as they were cheapest and i knew i was changing the color, however you can use any of the colors from c7 ZR1 as long as its the ceramic brake option (J57).
Caliper Bolts - This one is a weird one i still dont completely understand. The factory bolts on my vehicle were too long and when tightened fully with the new brake setup, they were just barely touching the back of the rotor. However, this is where it gets weird.... I opted to just order another set of factory 1LE bolts, which according to GM are #11570091. So when i compared to the bolts that came off my car, low and behold they were about 6 mm shorter, which was perfect... Now i could have used a thick washer with my original bolts, but this was ended up perfect...

All in all, everything bolted up great and after bleeding everything and road testing, i can feel a difference. Particularly in a "lighter" feel, especially up front. This is probably due to the ~37.5 lbs savings in the front, and ~18lb savings in the rear. The weight savings i list here is all the rotors from steel to CC. Brake wise i do feel like they are very comparable to stock, maybe a tad spongy when they are cold, but once the carbon ceramic warms up a little bit, man do they bite! This is my personal assessment, and on the street. On a race track, and under severe use, im sure there may be different opinions. I can also say, so far, i am seeing zero dust and zero noise..... Albeit i am still in the process of going through the fairly labor intensive process of burnishing in the brakes, and without getting arrested for reckless driving!!!! Also, another point to mention here is i can fully confirm all other factory options on the vehicle work, including hill assist and the electronic ebrake, as well as not getting any warning lights in the vehicle. I have listed a table below with some other information on part numbers and notes i was taking during my research. There are likely other options you can use from other vehicles than what i listed, my reason for choosing what i did was trying to balance cost and which ones were cheapest and most easily available. Worst part for me was being a little nutted on rear rotor choices. I am more than glad to answer any other questions folks may have, so fire away!!!!

Did the six piston on the rear bolt right up?

[Speedysteve77]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

Did the six piston on the rear bolt right up?

The new rear calipers i used from C7 ZR1 are still 4 piston and bolted up with no issue.

[Camfab]

Originally Posted by NG329

Yeah. This is the thing that honestly gives me pause. I would love the unsprung weight savings for track use, but those tolerances are dialed in from the manufacturer. The ZL1-1LE generates hella heat from the brakes, tires, and engine under hard use..... and in all fairness, there are some threads (not in this forum) about catastrophic rotor failures on track. ...likely due to guys not assembling the rotor discs correctly on the hats.

For what you're planning to do with the car, like you said, you'll probably be fine. Me on the other hand, I'll brake from 150mph at least 60x at a typical track day.

In the past I've considered having a CCB manufacturer develop a set for me but wimped out due to cost.

It’s funny I wanted a set for my last car and this was 11 years ago. I wrote to Brembo asking for the cost of a set of CCB’s for my old car. Brembo makes a full range of packages for that car, but at the time no CCB packages. My quote was 49k in 2012. Way above my pay grade.

[Mainframe-man]

What did you do for the brake lines for both the front and back?

Also as an FYI, if I have read everything correctly I believe GM is discontinuing the rear CCB rotors. I could be wrong but that is what I have seen on several GM online order sites.