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Old 03-03-2021, 01:44 PM   #15
ZX-10R

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
Then I...cleaned up the ports which were loaded with oil. Also inside the ports are brown with oil. You definitely want a CC immediately.
If you didn't make it through the entire rambling first post (I didn't) - this is really the key point. These cars need a catch can (that actually works) installed ASAP, fewer miles the better
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Old 03-04-2021, 01:54 AM   #16
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Question for the OP.

Is there any oil on top of your intercooler bricks?
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Old 03-04-2021, 09:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
OK, So the extraction is done.
Here's Katech removing it https://youtu.be/yM_z9A7INKQ
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.

Last edited by JSH; 03-04-2021 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:15 PM   #18
Bangkok_ZL1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHD ZL1 View Post
Question for the OP.

Is there any oil on top of your intercooler bricks?
It was everywhere, bricks, top of SC, heads and intake ports. I'm sure the inside of the supercharger is caked as well. This is the absolute worst design I've ever experienced. This is the difference between buying a Honda and GM, design and engineering on stuff like this. In fact, most Japanese firms would never sell a car with such an incomplete or inadequate system. It's a crying shame actually for GM to do this, and I used to work at Chevrolet. Such a beautiful piece of work this ZL1 is and to leave out a properly designed oil separater is a crime IMHO.
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:18 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
It was everywhere, bricks, top of SC, heads and intake ports. I'm sure the inside of the supercharger is caked as well. This is the absolute worst design I've ever experienced. This is the difference between buying a Honda and GM, design and engineering on stuff like this. In fact, most Japanese firms would never sell a car with such an incomplete or inadequate system. It's a crying shame actually for GM to do this, and I used to work at Chevrolet. Such a beautiful piece of work this ZL1 is and to leave out a properly designed oil separater is a crime IMHO.
Blame Eaton, the manufacturer, but it always comes back to the specs GM ordered. Better engineering, design, and manf. costs more money.
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'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:25 PM   #20
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So you're saying that, if you walked up to my car today, you would have the blower off in 1/2 hour? and 1/2 hour to reinstall it?
Nope 1/2 off, 1 on if I don't have to change the bolts. This is not that hard. Now there is a caveat.... All the electrical connections come off without much fuss..... We all know these things can be a bitch at times, and that would change everything....
Belt, Electrical Clips, PCV tubes, Airbox to TB tube, Cover, Supercharger... Did I miss anything? I'm going by memory here and it's 1:30am... There's really not that much here. And you need one extra person to make sure it's lifted off and put back on correctly. I've decided I'm replacing the number 7 bolt that I accidently put back on. So I (and my wife) will pull the supercharger again on Saturday just to replace all the sleeves and the number 7 bolt before re-installation.
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Old 03-06-2021, 03:21 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH View Post
Blame Eaton, the manufacturer, but it always comes back to the specs GM ordered. Better engineering, design, and manf. costs more money.
Supercharger design has nothing to do with it, nor do I really see this as a GM "design flaw".

News flash - all boosted motors have blowby. Some manufacturers, such as Honda, have designed a baffle system in the head that keeps most of it out of the intake, although it still ends up back in the sump and contaminates your oil. It's just something you have to live with, the more boost, the worse the problem becomes. Not sure how much piston ring design has to do with it, probably has some minor effect.

For engines without any baffle system, catch cans make a HUGE difference in keeping your oil (and intake) cleaner, longer. I've seen this first hand on several vehicles. It is a MUST DO mod if you plan to keep the car, and even for the sake of the poor guy who buys your car

Note the new M cars all run 19+ psi bone stock, no catch can, Manufacturers (for the most part) do not install catch cans because it's another maintenance and waste disposal liability
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Old 03-06-2021, 03:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
It was everywhere, bricks, top of SC, heads and intake ports. I'm sure the inside of the supercharger is caked as well. This is the absolute worst design I've ever experienced. This is the difference between buying a Honda and GM, design and engineering on stuff like this. In fact, most Japanese firms would never sell a car with such an incomplete or inadequate system. It's a crying shame actually for GM to do this, and I used to work at Chevrolet. Such a beautiful piece of work this ZL1 is and to leave out a properly designed oil separater is a crime IMHO.
Only recently did Honda begin installing a baffled cylinder head (on the Type R) to deal with the problem. Most people will never remove the supercharger lid or inspect the valves for coking and will never realize they lost ~20+ hp. I'm sure if you asked Big Al/GM they would consider it a nuisance issue that has no impact on reliability
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Old 03-06-2021, 06:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangkok_ZL1 View Post
It was everywhere, bricks, top of SC, heads and intake ports. I'm sure the inside of the supercharger is caked as well. This is the absolute worst design I've ever experienced. This is the difference between buying a Honda and GM, design and engineering on stuff like this. In fact, most Japanese firms would never sell a car with such an incomplete or inadequate system. It's a crying shame actually for GM to do this, and I used to work at Chevrolet. Such a beautiful piece of work this ZL1 is and to leave out a properly designed oil separater is a crime IMHO.
Any photos?

This was posted to the ZL1 Facebook group. It’s a stock 2017 with 67,000 miles and no catch can. According to the owner, the car has not been babied.

Does the oil laying in the bottom of your supercharger look worse than this?
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Old 03-06-2021, 07:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
Any photos?

This was posted to the ZL1 Facebook group. It’s a stock 2017 with 67,000 miles and no catch can. According to the owner, the car has not been babied.

Does the oil laying in the bottom of your supercharger look worse than this?
If that's how oil blow-by looked after 67k miles, we don't have a big problem here.
__________________
'20 ZL1 1LE A10,
OEM short block, LME heads/valve train, E2650.
100+ octanes, no eth, no meth, no N2O.
2/23 - 1031/1004 wheel.
4/23 - 1.41/9.61/145 at DA 7000 ft. (only made five passes).
2/24 - LME 390, E2650, FBO, 100 oct.; 1116hp/ 1063tq; 109 oct. dyno next.
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Old 03-06-2021, 08:36 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by JSH View Post
If that's how oil blow-by looked after 67k miles, we don't have a big problem here.
After a certain point it just gets sucked into the heads. What did you expect to see, a quart of oil sitting on the blower?

Let's see a scope of the valves after 47k with no catch can, as was documented on several Elite threads they look nasty in as little as 5k miles
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...3&postcount=67
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Old 03-06-2021, 08:44 PM   #26
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As for the torque wrench. I researched... looking for a made in U.S.A. wrench. I chose CDI. Apparently they are the manufacturer for Snap-On's torque wrenches.
I got it to torque wheels mostly so I got a 1/2" drive 30 to 250. I paid about $150.00 which is around twice what the chinese ones are at the big box store.
Amazon shows their complete line which is extensive.
Its a nice tool. I dont use it like a mechanic but Im betting Ill have it for the rest of my life.
Like tools used to be.
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Old 03-06-2021, 10:52 PM   #27
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So im currently installing my Elite catch can and I'm replacing all the supercharger to head bolts. I find it weird that the majority of guys here have said that they couldn't remove or replace the rear bolts. Mean while my bolts came straight out with no problem. My Zl1 is 2020 can that make a difference
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Old 03-07-2021, 03:24 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by ZX-10R View Post
After a certain point it just gets sucked into the heads.
If that is the case, the only way the oil is going to make its way into the intake ports is by going threw the intercooler bricks fins. The pic posted (as well as the OP pics) doesn’t seem to indicate any oil staining on the intercooler bricks fins unless they have done a really good job of cleaning all the oil out of the fins however there would still be some form of discolouration in the fins (unless the pics don’t show the discolouration, sometimes things look different in the flesh vs in pics).

The oil is obviously being drawn up via the port in the valley plate, either going threw the rotor pack and coming out the discharge port or bypassing the rotor pack and coming up out of the bypass valve. That said, the oil still needs to make its way threw the bricks fins to get into the intake ports, surely there would be witness trace of oil residue in the fins if this is the case....no? For the amount of oil that’s in the ports, there would have to be a fair amount running threw the fins.
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