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Old 07-17-2018, 03:43 PM   #15
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkH View Post
Joe you are doing the classic detailer's error that Mike Phillips always talks about. You are undercharging your customers for what you are doing. You are doing paint correction. A 1 step cleaning polish is not paint correction. It is not meant to remove 90% of defects like a paint correction job. A 1 step cleaning polish gives a nice gloss and leaves a coat of sealant. It is not meant to remove all the marring. But sometimes it does.

I'm not doing a full correction with the 1 step I do.
The Fixer will get most of the defects 70-80% or so, and the Essence will get 60-70% on a swirled up paint job.

99.9% of people have never done an Iron decontamination on their paint, so it's a necessary step. The TRIX also removes tar at the same time.

The IPA wipe down prior to polishing is crucial to remove any residues from the paint that could speed up the clogging process of the pores of my pads.

The Eraser wipedown prior to using Reload is crucial to remove any polish residue that would prevent proper bonding of the Reload.

There already are several detailers in the area that use a 1 step AIO product, I'm not a fan of using them. While they can hide and fill defects, durability is low, and usually lasts only a couple months on a daily driven car. I'd rather remove defects than fill them in, I understand most people don't want paint correction and that is OK with me. I'd rather do someone's car who really cares about it more than the average person.

I charge based upon my area, and what others do. If I were in Charlotte NC, I could get $400 for this job, but in the small town I live in, people wont pay that much.

I don't do this for a living, just on the side. I do only about 12 cars a year. I was confused about your "1 step polish", as polishing is using an abrasive to remove defects, I didn't realize you were using an AIO.
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Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 07-17-2018 at 04:00 PM.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:20 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS View Post
I'm not doing a full correction with the 1 step I do.
The Fixer will get most of the defects 70-80% or so, and the Essence will get 60-70% on a swirled up paint job.

99.9% of people have never done an Iron decontamination on their paint, so it's a necessary step. The TRIX also removes tar at the same time.

The IPA wipe down prior to polishing is crucial to remove any residues from the paint that could speed up the clogging process of the pores of my pads.

The Eraser wipedown prior to using Reload is crucial to remove any polish residue that would prevent proper bonding of the Reload.

There already are several detailers in the area that use a 1 step AIO product, I'm not a fan of using them. While they can hide and fill defects, durability is low, and usually lasts only a couple months on a daily driven car. I'd rather remove defects than fill them in, I understand most people don't want paint correction and that is OK with me. I'd rather do someone's car who really cares about it more than the average person.

I charge based upon my area, and what others do. If I were in Charlotte NC, I could get $400 for this job, but in the small town I live in, people wont pay that much.

I don't do this for a living, just on the side. I do only about 12 cars a year. I was confused about your "1 step polish", as polishing is using an abrasive to remove defects, I didn't realize you were using an AIO.
It's a craft not a science so if that's what it takes for you to get the level of satisfaction you are looking for, go for it. That's like $30/hr but your time is worth what you think it is worth.

Go read my reviews and comments from Camarofest here and on Instagram. We were getting raves from people with great cars, who know what they are talking about. So I believe my method is sound.

But I still don't understand an IPA wipedown BEFORE polishing. That's what clay is for. Yes, I do an IPA wipedown AFTER polishing ONLY before ceramic coating applications.

As far as iron decon goes, are you seeing the reaction? Is the TRIX showing color change to indicate iron? I ONLY see iron reaction on brand new cars right from the dealer. Any other iron over time gets rinsed off. So that is just a waste of very expensive product to me.
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Old 07-17-2018, 06:32 PM   #17
Joe M 2012 2SS


 
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It's a craft not a science so if that's what it takes for you to get the level of satisfaction you are looking for, go for it. That's like $30/hr but your time is worth what you think it is worth.

Go read my reviews and comments from Camarofest here and on Instagram. We were getting raves from people with great cars, who know what they are talking about. So I believe my method is sound.

But I still don't understand an IPA wipedown BEFORE polishing. That's what clay is for. Yes, I do an IPA wipedown AFTER polishing ONLY before ceramic coating applications.

As far as iron decon goes, are you seeing the reaction? Is the TRIX showing color change to indicate iron? I ONLY see iron reaction on brand new cars right from the dealer. Any other iron over time gets rinsed off. So that is just a waste of very expensive product to me.

I see iron reaction on every car I do. Yes the TRIX turns purple. Clay doesn't remove iron. Iron deposits do not rinse off over time, they bond to the pores of the paint.

I never intended to imply that people weren't happy with your work.

For 95% of people, a 1 step AIO is what they want, they aren't looking for defect removal, and don't know the difference between a swirl and a squirrel.

The IPA wipedown will remove any left over wax/sealant/clay lube, or any oils that are left on the paint. I have found in the 30 years I've been doing this, that the cleaner the surface is, the less your pads get clogged, and you will get a more consistent cut from section to section.

Kevin Brown recommends it as well. The cleaner the surface, the more consistent the results.

It's not about the results I'm looking for, but what the persons car I am doing is looking for. I turn down a lot of jobs because I ask people how they intend to care for the car once I'm done, any that say go to Auto-Bell or another of the "swirl-o-matic" drive through's, or use the brush at the pay/spray, I don't do it regardless of money. It's a waste of time to do this, they will just put the defects back in, and then blame it on me.

Again I don't do this for a living, I only do it on the side, so I can pick and choose what I want to do. Since there are already a few in the area who do the AIO details for a living, I send people to them who want that kind of service.

Most all the jobs I do are full correction, and that takes what it takes...might be 15 hours, might be 100 hours. It depends on the condition of the paint and what level the person wants it to be at.

Kirk..... I was just curious how you could do a 1 step polish in 90 minutes, I didn't realize you were doing AIO. If I was in business for myself I would do AIO as well, I'd have to, or starve.

I have nothing against you or your business. I just like the customer who wants his vehicle as close to 100% perfect as I can get it, and who takes care of it properly afterwards...….. but occasionally I will do a 1 step polish for someone if I like them.

The only other thing I ask of them is when someone says to them, "What wax did you use to make your car look like that?" …….they must tell them..."Turtle Wax from Wal-Mart."
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Old 07-17-2018, 10:05 PM   #18
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I see iron reaction on every car I do. My garage kept 2 year old Camaro always shows a reaction especially around rear bumper and on the doors mostly near front wheel, I assume it’s mostly brake dust. I think claying will get some of that but not all and I never clay without iron decon first.

To me a real “paint correction” will take at least a full day and that’s friggin hustling, takes me about 3-4 full days.
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Old 07-18-2018, 02:01 PM   #19
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Another service I will add from now on is exhaust tips polishing.
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Old 07-25-2018, 08:16 AM   #20
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A very interesting read! Kirk, great meeting you, your wife and your team. See you next year!

Bill
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Old 07-25-2018, 07:26 PM   #21
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Thanks Bill! We are heading down there again in 2 weeks to do it again for the Tri-Five Nationals. All 1955-57 Chevys!
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:03 PM   #22
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Great post Kirk
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:48 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Burly View Post
I see iron reaction on every car I do. My garage kept 2 year old Camaro always shows a reaction especially around rear bumper and on the doors mostly near front wheel, I assume it’s mostly brake dust. I think claying will get some of that but not all and I never clay without iron decon first.

To me a real “paint correction” will take at least a full day and that’s friggin hustling, takes me about 3-4 full days.
Luckily I have a crew of 8 to do the washing and claying and 2 guys to polish, so it doesn't take me that long. I block 5 hours for paint correction.

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Great post Kirk
Thanks!
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Old 07-27-2018, 09:51 PM   #24
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Here's why it doesn't take me 3-4 days to polish cars LOL!

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Old 07-27-2018, 11:24 PM   #25
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Kirk, can you make a recommendation on the orange, green and white pads? I'd be using a DA. Been considering the Lake Country CCS stuff. Didn't know what you were using at CamaroFest.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:25 AM   #26
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Kirk, can you make a recommendation on the orange, green and white pads? I'd be using a DA. Been considering the Lake Country CCS stuff. Didn't know what you were using at CamaroFest.
I used Hex Logics from Chemical guys mostly at CamaroFest. Also used some Lake Country flat pads.
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Old 07-28-2018, 02:27 AM   #27
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dang u guys cleaned the shit out of those beasts
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Old 07-28-2018, 09:22 AM   #28
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dang u guys cleaned the shit out of those beasts
Hell yeah!
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