[sinlinson]

Had the 2016 SS convertible for about a week. Took it out Tuesday to a car show. I threw a bag in the trunk because I left the top down. Nothing big, size of a grocery bag. When I got home, I put the top up. Tried to open the trunk, no go. Tried the remote, the key fob and the door button... all no good. I tried to put the top down; I got the only manual method message. So, I figured the bag had somehow moved the partition. But why wouldn't the trunk open? Was attempting to use the emergency key slot behind the rear seat (pain in the butt) and decided to back down the driveway and break hard, hoping to move the bag. Sure enough, top goes down and trunk opens again. I get the top, although the partition looked fine and didn't have to be adjusted. But what is up with the trunk not opening? Had my 2011 for 2 years and never a problem putting stuff in the trunk!

[GXP08jrf]

Do an internet search for the Technical Service Bulletin #16-NA-257. This addresses Top Not Secure messages and Rear compartment lid not opening.

Depending on the vehicle's actual build date, it may need the folding top's latch re-balanced and the top controller re programmed.

[ember1205]

If the top isn't closed and secured, it's "open". And since "open" could mean a variety of things, including the tonneau being in a position where the trunk lid could strike it and cause damage, the trunk is disabled unless the top is fully closed and secured.

[fredz ride]

I'm not trying to hijack the thread but I have many issues with the top also and the TSB I read might apply to my convert too. People here know way more than me. I bought a 2018 ZL1 convert with 1500 miles on it two weeks ago. The first time I tried to open the top I got the only manual operation message. I've got a 12 month gm warranty and have an appointment at a dealership next week. I've got a friend with a 2020 SS and he tells me the window retracts a little when he exits and then closes when he closes the door. I'm thinking my ZL1 should do that too but my window glass hooks on the top and snaps free when you open the door far enough. I'm thinking it is all part of the convertible top problem? After I checked fuses that were in the trunk fuse block I couldn't open the trunk without the key and lock in the back seat.
I get the top not secure message sometimes and another message tells me to open and close the drivers window. I do that and the message to do it returns repeatedly. I'm in SW Florida when I swapped my Yukon Denali for the Camaro and drove it home the first thing I noticed was the battery tender was set on top the battery and the line cord was caught in the convertible mechanism near the battery. I'm a retired EE and since I couldn't get the cord out I cut the plug off and then reinstalled it. The cord pulled free and I don't think it bent the mechanism. This could have caused the latch mechanism misalignment but not sure. I'll report back after the dealer finds and fixes the problem. Thanks for the info on the TSB. Never had a convertible before but have owned many muscle cars since the 60's. I had a 50th anniversary z06 vette for about 12 years.
I'm an old gearhead ;-)

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by fredz ride

I'm not trying to hijack the thread but I have many issues with the top also and the TSB I read might apply to my convert too. People here know way more than me. I bought a 2018 ZL1 convert with 1500 miles on it two weeks ago. The first time I tried to open the top I got the only manual operation message. I've got a 12 month gm warranty and have an appointment at a dealership next week. I've got a friend with a 2020 SS and he tells me the window retracts a little when he exits and then closes when he closes the door. I'm thinking my ZL1 should do that too but my window glass hooks on the top and snaps free when you open the door far enough. I'm thinking it is all part of the convertible top problem? After I checked fuses that were in the trunk fuse block I couldn't open the trunk without the key and lock in the back seat.
I get the top not secure message sometimes and another message tells me to open and close the drivers window. I do that and the message to do it returns repeatedly. I'm in SW Florida when I swapped my Yukon Denali for the Camaro and drove it home the first thing I noticed was the battery tender was set on top the battery and the line cord was caught in the convertible mechanism near the battery. I'm a retired EE and since I couldn't get the cord out I cut the plug off and then reinstalled it. The cord pulled free and I don't think it bent the mechanism. This could have caused the latch mechanism misalignment but not sure. I'll report back after the dealer finds and fixes the problem. Thanks for the info on the TSB. Never had a convertible before but have owned many muscle cars since the 60's. I had a 50th anniversary z06 vette for about 12 years.
I'm an old gearhead ;-)

You are correct in thinking that your 'vert should drop the door windows slightly when you open them. This is referred to as "indexing" and it's covered in the owner's manual. If your windows are not doing this, you can reprogram. I have attached a snippet from my owner's manual that describes the process.

[fredz ride]

Thanks ember,
I did the programming and it seems to work. I had the car running on the driveway and the first time I got out it opened a small amount maybe a quarter inch or a little more. When I opened the door a second time to get
in the window dropped about and inch. It didn't close by itself from there.
I used the switch to close it. Not sure if it is supposed to. Drove the car a couple of miles to see if there was any difference in the top not secure message but I don't think there was. I cleared the messages and then noticed a chime 4 times every so often and then 8 or more times. I suspect I would have gotten the top not secure message. Before that I took a 6mm allen wrench and ran clockwise until it stopped and then counterclockwise until stopped. Then one more time clockwise until the stop and left it there. No change in messages and trunk still won't open. Maybe as the TSB says you have to reprogram the top controller along with adjusting the latching mechanism.

[ember1205]

The window should drop around 1/4" or so when the door is opened, and then go back up after it's closed. The message about the top "shouldn't" be related to the window indexing.

[Chutzpah]

Two things I noted with all of my Camaro’s (3 in total, 2016-2022), the rubber trunk stops were set wrong (too high). Try unlocking your trunk, push down on the trunk, then try to unlock again. There’s a decent chance it will release (if that’s the problem).

As far as the window(s) clipping the convertible top…well, neither of the 2 convertibles did that when brand spanking new (top must have stretched some). After a few ups and downs of the top(s), the windows would clip the top, when opening the doors. It seems the speed in which I opened the door was quicker than the remote index activation. So, what I ended up doing is pulling the handle to the door open (to unlatch/ index) pause, then pull the door open. If you unlatch and pull at the same time, there’s a better than good chance you’ll clip the top. At least that’s my experience, on both convertibles.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

Two things I noted with all of my Camaro’s (3 in total, 2016-2022), the rubber trunk stops were set wrong (too high). Try unlocking your trunk, push down on the trunk, then try to unlock again. There’s a decent chance it will release (if that’s the problem).

As far as the window(s) clipping the convertible top…well, neither of the 2 convertibles did that when brand spanking new (top must have stretched some). After a few ups and downs of the top(s), the windows would clip the top, when opening the doors. It seems the speed in which I opened the door was quicker than the remote index activation. So, what I ended up doing is pulling the handle to the door open (to unlatch/ index) pause, then pull the door open. If you unlatch and pull at the same time, there’s a better than good chance you’ll clip the top. At least that’s my experience, on both convertibles.

If the window doesn't index (correctly), it seems like the impact for opening the door is negligible. Once the window contacts the top as the door is opening, the way that it moves from the pressure of it pressing against the top is in "the right direction" to where it shifts downward and out of the way. Closing the door, however, causes the window to flex outward and upward which could be much more of an issue.

In other words, I feel like the indexing is more important for closing the door than for opening it.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by ember1205

If the window doesn't index (correctly), it seems like the impact for opening the door is negligible. Once the window contacts the top as the door is opening, the way that it moves from the pressure of it pressing against the top is in "the right direction" to where it shifts downward and out of the way. Closing the door, however, causes the window to flex outward and upward which could be much more of an issue.

In other words, I feel like the indexing is more important for closing the door than for opening it.

Ok, but I don’t think he was talking about closing the door…” I've got a friend with a 2020 SS and he tells me the window retracts a little when he exits and then closes when he closes the door. I'm thinking my ZL1 should do that too but my window glass hooks on the top and snaps free when you open the door far enough”

And personally, I don’t think it’s a negligible issue when the door gets opened and closed thousands of times (in its life) flexing the window and rubbing the top every time. It really annoyed me… that’s why I went through the effort to avoid it by slowing the door opening process. Sometimes I forgot, but it is what it is… now I don’t have that worry anymore!

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

Ok, but I don’t think he was talking about closing the door…” I've got a friend with a 2020 SS and he tells me the window retracts a little when he exits and then closes when he closes the door. I'm thinking my ZL1 should do that too but my window glass hooks on the top and snaps free when you open the door far enough”

And personally, I don’t think it’s a negligible issue when the door gets opened and closed thousands of times (in its life) flexing the window and rubbing the top every time. It really annoyed me… that’s why I went through the effort to avoid it by slowing the door opening process. Sometimes I forgot, but it is what it is… now I don’t have that worry anymore!

I was specifically trying to call out the situation where the indexing doesn't work (the window stays up), though. In that case, opening the door shouldn't have a "huge impact" as the window will move out of the way (this, and only this, would be the negligible part). Closing the door is the bigger concern.

If indexing is working correctly, then it shouldn't hit in either direction. If the drop is a little slow and it bumps a little while opening, it would at least be dropped down until it gets closed and there should be no impact in that direction at least.

[Chutzpah]

Originally Posted by ember1205

I was specifically trying to call out the situation where the indexing doesn't work (the window stays up), though. In that case, opening the door shouldn't have a "huge impact" as the window will move out of the way (this, and only this, would be the negligible part). Closing the door is the bigger concern.

If indexing is working correctly, then it shouldn't hit in either direction. If the drop is a little slow and it bumps a little while opening, it would at least be dropped down until it gets closed and there should be no impact in that direction at least.

I’d be interested to see a video of the power pulled, then trying to open the door with the window up. I’m quite serious… When I looked at the engagement point of the window to the top, assuming no indexing, it looked like it would be a pain in the ass getting the door open (if the battery died) As in you’d have to pry the top up while pulling on the door. Now, my concern may be misplaced, but I definitely didn’t want to find out.

The indexing worked just fine on my cars… so of course…it always closed perfectly.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

I’d be interested to see a video of the power pulled, then trying to open the door with the window up. I’m quite serious… When I looked at the engagement point of the window to the top, assuming no indexing, it looked like it would be a pain in the ass getting the door open (if the battery died) As in you’d have to pry the top up while pulling on the door. Now, my concern may be misplaced, but I definitely didn’t want to find out.

The indexing worked just fine on my cars… so of course…it always closed perfectly.

I don't have a video, but I was actually surprised at being able to -open- the door reasonably easily (although it was clear that the window and top were hitting each other). Once the window and top come into contact with each other, the height of the window reduces as the door moves outward because of the way the window's position is changed. Don't get me wrong - the lack of indexing is NOT good for the top and would likely cause damage long-term somewhere with the window and/or door. But the reality is that the door will open. Closing is entirely different...

To close the door, I had to press the glass toward the interior of the door to cause the height of it to be a little lower so that I could get it under the edge of the top.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by fredz ride

It didn't close by itself from there.
I used the switch to close it. Not sure if it is supposed to.

It's supposed to close by itself. Every time you open the door, whether the car is key-off, key-on, or key-acc, the window will index down 1/2" or so to clear the top. Then after you close it, it will index back up. The only time it won't is if a) there is no power (battery dead or disconnected) or b) indexing is not complete or not functioning correctly (bad wiring, BCM, etc.). Any time the battery is disconnected (no 12v power to the car at all) the indexing will be forgotten and you'll have to redo it. Dash should prompt with "open and close <driver/passenger/rear-driver/rear-pass> window" message.

Drove the car a couple of miles ... then noticed a chime 4 times every so often and then 8 or more times. No change in messages and trunk still won't open.

Chimes are not normal. Yeah something's still broken: wiring, switch, sensor, controller, etc. Hopefully your dealer has a competent electrician. If not find the best automotive electrician in your area and pay a ($250?) diagnostic fee to tell you what's wrong. Some might also discount the fee partly if they also do the fix.