[SSDan]

Originally Posted by I`m Batman

Can you share a link to the item? That's a cheap item to install and couldn't hurt. I've never had the problem but why not?

Here is where I bought the cable.
https://www.lethalgarage.com/product...d8ecfe34&_ss=r

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

Here's one for $14
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s..._0_0?rrec=true

No doubt I paid more than I had to but I tripped across this item on another thread and decided - what the heck do I have to loose. Also the cable I bought is heavier gauge (thickness) than the Autozone one which will give better results. I think of it this way - Yes I over spent $40.00 on an item I could probably get elsewhere for much less - but that $40.00 made the number one most frustrating issue I've had with this car for years go away. For my peace of mind that is money well spent.

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

So GM has a class action Lawsuit out for this instead of them just adding a proper ground cable?
Anyone call them and tell them how to fix it?

Originally Posted by MackSteelPrivateEye

Anyone call GM and tell them this is whats needed? Or do they want to try and fight the class action lawsuit out against them.

I believe this issue has multiple and compounding factors involved. I see the root cause being a heat soaked starter that is located in a tight spot with little circulation and poor heat shielding to allow the starter to stay cool enough. With the battery a long way from the starter then load resistance through the circuit becomes a compounding concern. That concern becomes bigger if there is not a solid ground from engine to body. The battery becomes taxed to push enough voltage through the circuit to overcome the heat soaked windings in the starter and the resistance of poor grounding. That is why a new battery will often make this better for a while since a new battery is pushing that voltage and amps up that long circuit at its best while it is fresh.

I have no ideal if I have a long term solution. I suspect that as my battery ages and becomes less able to push its rated voltage and amps - the heat soak load may be enough by itself to bring back the problem even though I have significantly reduced the load resistance issue with a better engine to body ground.

As I said in my first post I decided to just try something easy before I got into buying an expensive new battery and/or replacing the starter. I was surprised I got any positive results let alone such a dramatic improvement with a new ground cable. My car must have poor/loose factory grounding I guess.

[KMPrenger]

This is good stuff. Thank You for contributing to this community!

[Doc Oc]

Good job!

[Puddin]

What gauge is the one from Lethal's website?

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by Puddin

What gauge is the one from Lethal's website?

I'm unsure. Its plenty thick. Definitely bigger than the grounds that are on the car and the one from AutoZone - at least to my eye.

[easttxss]

The one you got looks to be 1/0 welding cable (fine strands, very flexible). I have made industrial battery cables with that stuff for years and also made the cables for my Jeep out of it. Makes a huge difference over the crappy 4ga cable from the parts stores.

[JT Camaro]

I had this issue and fixed is the same way on my 10SS...I'm hoping LT4s are immune to it as I haven't experienced it yet

[Rhobz]

I haven't had any hot start issues with my 2018 1LE but I am still going to be adding the ground wire. The one thing I have always tried hard to do is have a reliable car. The idea of missing a commitment because "my nice fancy hot rod car wouldn't start" just rubs me the wrong way. I have some unused 0 gauge wire from my car audio days that I am going to use. Now I just have to get off my lazy butt and lift that thing so I can get under there and do the install, along with the new Soler TB and Gen5DIY seat cooling wiring harness. Would probably be a little more motivated if it wasn't <25° outside. I have been in Colorado for 3 months and my SoCal blood hasn't thickened up enough yet.

EDIT: I just watched the video about where you put your ground wire and I will probably be installing mine today since I don't have to get under the car to do it. Thanks!!

[Invertalon]

What bolt size to attach the opposite end to the engine block? I assume you have to buy that, as mine has no bolt in that position from the factory.

[ctrlz]

This article describes a multi-pronged approach to the "heat soak" problem. Just note, the "physics factoid" in paragraph 3 is more of a "wrongoid" when it comes to the math. The resistance in that example would be close to 1.3 ohms, not 1.5.
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/tec...s/heatsoak.php

[Sledgehammer70]

Hey guys! Thanks for the tags and links. I can't take credit here as the cable was made by Ofer at Gen5DIY, but I do offer it on my site as a reseller.

The issue came about with Ofer's Z/28 and from numerous 5th and 6th Gen 1LE's getting hot and slow starting or not starting at all at the track. We did some testing and you can see due to the grounding cables the car was trying to draw either too much voltage or not enough at start causing the slow issue or not starting at all issue.

The cable is bigger than a zero gauge to make sure its a solid ground vs GM's baby wiring. We typically go from the trans to the body, but you can hook it up like the OP or even post from the battery to the body. The entire point is to introduce a much better ground.

That being stated, this isn't a be all end all work around, in some cases we found adding 2 cables exponentially improved the fix.

While I don't think anyone should have to pay money to fix an issue GM didn't solve, it can save you a lot of money in needing a new starter or costs in having a dealer try to solve the problems. But you're not alone in your issues and this is a quick easy solve even GM should roll out. They currently have a lawsuit submitted on this, but no updates.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Sledgehammer70

Hey guys! Thanks for the tags and links. I can't take credit here as the cable was made by Ofer at Gen5DIY, but I do offer it on my site as a reseller.

The issue came about with Ofer's Z/28 and from numerous 5th and 6th Gen 1LE's getting hot and slow starting or not starting at all at the track. We did some testing and you can see due to the grounding cables the car was trying to draw either too much voltage or not enough at start causing the slow issue or not starting at all issue.

The cable is bigger than a zero gauge to make sure its a solid ground vs GM's baby wiring. We typically go from the trans to the body, but you can hook it up like the OP or even post from the battery to the body. The entire point is to introduce a much better ground.

That being stated, this isn't a be all end all work around, in some cases we found adding 2 cables exponentially improved the fix.

While I don't think anyone should have to pay money to fix an issue GM didn't solve, it cause save you a lot of money in needing a new starter or costs in having a dealer try to solve the problems. But you're not alone in your issues and this is a quick easy solve even GM should roll out. They currently have a lawsuit submitted on this, but no updates.

Thanks Matt and Dan (OP) for this, I also ordered this cable yesterday.

I don't mind paying a little extra over some el cheapo autozone stuff and helping Gen5DIY make a few bucks for a great idea and a decent job on their custom parts (I have more than a few now). Walmart mentality does not apply here

[I`m Batman]

Thank you. I just ordered a cable from Lethal. A little Christmas present that I actually want... for myself. lol.