[EDFHOBBIES]

Awesome Can't wait.. Great work as all ways! Here are some more questions that work with what your doing all ready..

What will a CAI or Rotofab give me? Hood down please! test with no tune, then test with tune to see if the power comes from the tune or the part.. And to verify stick the stock box back on after its been tuned! If it's not to much to ask cut the bottom from the stock box and see if it does just as well in all scenarios listed!

^^^^^^^WARNING THIS MAY HURT CAI SALES!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What do Headers add? Cheap vs ARH ( I know I'm dreaming)

What do pulleys do? Lower vs upper LOL from what i have seen by just looking at sheets people post the upper seems to produce more TQ..

What does a larger blower add? I'll let you borrow mine! I think it do 720 at 15,000 rpm w less heat vs 23000 rpms and more heat and less volume/flow!

You might as well see what porting the bower adds LOL!
1. Snout and 103mm cheapest way
2. What porters call max effort blower, snout, and 103mm

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

Awesome Can't wait.. Great work as all ways! Here are some more questions that work with what your doing all ready..

What will a CAI or Rotofab give me? Hood down please! test with no tune, then test with tune to see if the power comes from the tune or the part.. And to verify stick the stock box back on after its been tuned! If it's not to much to ask cut the bottom from the stock box and see if it does just as well in all scenarios listed!

^^^^^^^WARNING THIS MAY HURT CAI SALES!^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What do Headers add? Cheap vs ARH ( I know I'm dreaming)

What do pulleys do? Lower vs upper LOL from what i have seen by just looking at sheets people post the upper seems to produce more TQ..

What does a larger blower add? I'll let you borrow mine! I think it do 720 at 15,000 rpm w less heat vs 23000 rpms and more heat and less volume/flow!

You might as well see what porting the bower adds LOL!
1. Snout and 103mm cheapest way
2. What porters call max effort blower, snout, and 103mm

I did not want to test air boxes on the factory cal because it can skew the results.

I fully tuned the stock air box then installed and tuned Each.

The CAI made 10 RWHP tuned but may see more using the factory calibration as it cleans up the stock rich tune.

The Rotofab needed a very close to the calibration I made for the stock air box and made 16 RWHP hood up hood down no difference I tested this theory several times on another ZL-1.

So Best stock air box tuned, and run against Aftermarket air boxes each dialed in perfectly.

Pulley ratio, if the same will produce the same results whether done from the bottom pulley or top pulley, the bottom pulley will always have the advantage due to better belt traction on the larger top pulley.

A long tube header will be very hard to differentiate between brands unless there is some design flaw that hurts it over others, When I choose a header I look at design specifics, die marks, flange thickness, welds tube routing collector design mounting to cats and materials they are made from, etc

I don't think I would waste time and money on ported 1.7 I would put that money toward a new larger blower which will for sure produce better results and less heat.

If someone wants to send a fully ported blower with snout and 103 I would test it.

But unless your already spinning it at Max speed I don't think we would see the benefits.

Ted.

[jvandy50]

nice job Ted!! can't wait to see how you handle E85, i love that stuff and hope to be able to use it once i decide to tune this car

[Camaro#7]

Ted and I worked on some mods for my car. Ended up going with ARH 2" long system(coated), Lower Pulley swap. I already had a Rotofab and ported TB. It took a few times to get the remote tune dialed in but it definitely woke the car up. I haven't had it to a track yet to see what it will do but it pulls hard up 130. I am more interested in the auto-cross and track days anyway since mine is a M6. Pretty tricky to launch these suckers at all for drag racing. I will do a that a few times however.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by jvandy50

nice job Ted!! can't wait to see how you handle E85, i love that stuff and hope to be able to use it once i decide to tune this car

The sensor is already installed and the tune is converted so it is just a matter of pouring it in the tank.

Ted.

[Alain]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

I did not want to test air boxes on the factory cal because it can skew the results.

I fully tuned the stock air box then installed and tuned Each.

The CAI made 10 RWHP tuned but may see more using the factory calibration as it cleans up the stock rich tune.

The Rotofab needed a very close to the calibration I made for the stock air box and made 16 RWHP hood up hood down no difference I tested this theory several times on another ZL-1.

So Best stock air box tuned, and run against Aftermarket air boxes each dialed in perfectly.

Pulley ratio, if the same will produce the same results whether done from the bottom pulley or top pulley, the bottom pulley will always have the advantage due to better belt traction on the larger top pulley.

A long tube header will be very hard to differentiate between brands unless there is some design flaw that hurts it over others, When I choose a header I look at design specifics, die marks, flange thickness, welds tube routing collector design mounting to cats and materials they are made from, etc

I don't think I would waste time and money on ported 1.7 I would put that money toward a new larger blower which will for sure produce better results and less heat.

If someone wants to send a fully ported blower with snout and 103 I would test it.

But unless your already spinning it at Max speed I don't think we would see the benefits.

Ted.

Am I reading this correctly? The stock air box is the best approach ?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Alain

Am I reading this correctly? The stock air box is the best approach ?

No sir, I think you misunderstood.

Ted.

[XXX ZL1]

I like your approach Ted. I tune as well and its great to see others level headed and truely looking to help. Seems that approach is almost a lost art, but the new guys are a few years behind us. Lol

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by XXX ZL1

I like your approach Ted. I tune as well and its great to see others level headed and truely looking to help. Seems that approach is almost a lost art, but the new guys are a few years behind us. Lol

Thank you sir.

Ted.

[Alain]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

No sir, I think you misunderstood.

Ted.

Thank you for clarifying that.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Alain

Thank you for clarifying that.

You are welcome if you have any specific questions please don't hesitate to ask.

Ted.

[Artos]

I guess one thing I would like to know as you go through this is what mods would be considered ideal in regards to performance for the road course...I understand & see a lot of monster HP builds that are used on the strip but guessing many of those mods do not transition so well for the turns.

Again, still learning.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Artos

I guess one thing I would like to know as you go through this is what mods would be considered ideal in regards to performance for the road course...I understand & see a lot of monster HP builds that are used on the strip but guessing many of those mods do not transition so well for the turns.

Again, still learning.

Since my focus is road course as this car is primarily built for that, so I promise you will get your answers.

[EDFHOBBIES]

As stated in another thread a 103mm TB, MAX effort porting of the blower, headers, and intake would be the best power for road course by not over spinning the blower.. They have already proved it made the same power as over spinning the blower.

I'd focus on cooling mods next exchangers and larger reservoir w fill tank..