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Old 12-03-2020, 04:18 PM   #1
Crazy Drywall Guy
 
Drives: 2018 Chevy Camaro 1ss
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All the bolt on goodies

Hey guys,new to this forum but looking for bolt on advice. 2018 Camaro ss, I would like to add everything to this motor without actually opening the motor up internally,I'm just not ready to open that factory sealed motor yet since I've only had it a few months. Not really worried about the warranty ,just want this thing to stay reliable for now. I'm looking at intake,headers,e-85,cold air intake,tune. Budget aside,what is the dream set up for bolt on goodies right now? Best set up for horsepower? And no I'm not doing a blower set up yet . Any tuners near central Michigan? Thanks for the advice.
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:35 PM   #2
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the hi ram is where its at. imho it requires extensive modification to work as intended. cut the cowl, replace the hood and modify the air intake setup to something of a ram air flavor. most likely involving more cutting and some sort of over the radiator style inlet (hood pins).

the other side of it is: i wouldn't expect the stock innards to live very long spinning the motor to 7k. namely the valve train components.
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:40 PM   #3
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also ftr i have pretty much all of the bolt ons.

2" headers w full 3" exhaust
ported msd
LT5 tb
ati damper
rotofab dry
ethanol

you can expect an 80-90 whp gain with all that stuff. the car should realistically pick up 7-9 mph in the 1/4.
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:46 PM   #4
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Hi-ram or MSD for the intake, over the radiator or rotofab for the cold air setup, 2” longtubes, you’ve already got the flex fuel sensor, and the ATI pulley.

I did hi-ram/TB, flexfuel sensor, longtubes, then over the radiator intake in that order to see how the car performed with each thing and to see the results in the dyno each time.

I ran the stock airbox for a while with the hi-ram and the car ran good, but knocked .3 off of my ET by doing the over the radiator and I kept my hood latch because I didn’t want to run hood pins or aero latches.

I made 475 on a mustang dyno in 5th gear with the Longtube, flexfuel and hi-ram/Tb. Car ran 11.0 at 124 at 3611# in 2660 DA with a couple of small issues. Definitely would’ve seen 10’s if I would’ve thrown the radial on the car over the bias ply and/or tried to fix the issue on the spot
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2017 1SS:Hi-Ram, FBO, OTR ram air,
Circle D converter.

Previous PB: 11.07 @124 1/4
7.1 @100 1/8 1.6 60’ w/2” longtubes,
95mm hi-ram,
OTR ramair, flex fuel

Last edited by 17camaroSS; 12-03-2020 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:57 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17camaroSS View Post
I ran the stock airbox for a while with the hi-ram and the car good, but knocked .3 off of my ET by doing the over the radiator and I kept my hood latch because I didn’t want to run hood pins or aero latches.
how did you accomplish this? what hood?
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
how did you accomplish this? what hood?
Which part? The hood latch or stock airbox? Lol.
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2017 1SS:Hi-Ram, FBO, OTR ram air,
Circle D converter.

Previous PB: 11.07 @124 1/4
7.1 @100 1/8 1.6 60’ w/2” longtubes,
95mm hi-ram,
OTR ramair, flex fuel
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
the hi ram is where its at. imho it requires extensive modification to work as intended. cut the cowl, replace the hood and modify the air intake setup to something of a ram air flavor. most likely involving more cutting and some sort of over the radiator style inlet (hood pins).

the other side of it is: i wouldn't expect the stock innards to live very long spinning the motor to 7k. namely the valve train components.
I don't think I'm ready to chop the hood up quite yet Probably MSD intake is more my thing.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17camaroSS View Post
Which part? The hood latch or stock airbox? Lol.
the over the radiator setup that didn't involve hood latch removal..?

i agree, the stock air box is a beast. i saw 0 gain going to the rotofab on an already modified car.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
the over the radiator setup that didn't involve hood latch removal..?

i agree, the stock air box is a beast. i saw 0 gain going to the rotofab on an already modified car.
I cut the upper core support right behind the latch and ran a 4” tube that came with my Prostock1313 from Chris Johnson. I ran it as a ram air setup but going to try it with a good filter and the bellmouth this coming season to see the difference. I’m running the factory hood as well.
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2017 1SS:Hi-Ram, FBO, OTR ram air,
Circle D converter.

Previous PB: 11.07 @124 1/4
7.1 @100 1/8 1.6 60’ w/2” longtubes,
95mm hi-ram,
OTR ramair, flex fuel
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:25 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 17camaroSS View Post
I cut the upper core support right behind the latch and ran a 4” tube that came with my Prostock1313 from Chris Johnson. I ran it as a ram air setup but going to try it with a good filter and the bellmouth this coming season to see the difference. I’m running the factory hood as well.
ah 10-4. speed density?
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:38 PM   #11
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Drives: 2018 Chevy Camaro 1ss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
the hi ram is where its at. imho it requires extensive modification to work as intended. cut the cowl, replace the hood and modify the air intake setup to something of a ram air flavor. most likely involving more cutting and some sort of over the radiator style inlet (hood pins).

the other side of it is: i wouldn't expect the stock innards to live very long spinning the motor to 7k. namely the valve train components.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 17camaroSS View Post
Hi-ram or MSD for the intake, over the radiator or rotofab for the cold air setup, 2” longtubes, you’ve already got the flex fuel sensor, and the ATI pulley.

I did hi-ram/TB, flexfuel sensor, longtubes, then over the radiator intake in that order to see how the car performed with each thing and to see the results in the dyno each time.

I ran the stock airbox for a while with the hi-ram and the car ran good, but knocked .3 off of my ET by doing the over the radiator and I kept my hood latch because I didn’t want to run hood pins or aero latches.

I made 475 on a mustang dyno in 5th gear with the Longtube, flexfuel and hi-ram/Tb. Car ran 11.0 at 124 at 3611# in 2660 DA with a couple of small issues. Definitely would’ve seen 10’s if I would’ve thrown the radial on the car over the bias ply and/or tried to fix the issue on the spot
So what's everybody doing for headers? I see Kooks a lot on these forums,cat or no cat? Xpipes? I already installed a Solo performance axle back shortly after I got the car,so I would like to keep it.
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:41 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s346k View Post
ah 10-4. speed density?
Yea, I switched over after I did the OTR. Love the speed density tune.
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2017 1SS:Hi-Ram, FBO, OTR ram air,
Circle D converter.

Previous PB: 11.07 @124 1/4
7.1 @100 1/8 1.6 60’ w/2” longtubes,
95mm hi-ram,
OTR ramair, flex fuel
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:41 PM   #13
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i have a speed engineering setup on my car. headers, x & midpipe
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Old 12-03-2020, 06:44 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy Drywall Guy View Post
So what's everybody doing for headers? I see Kooks a lot on these forums,cat or no cat? Xpipes? I already installed a Solo performance axle back shortly after I got the car,so I would like to keep it.
Kooks, ARH, AFE, and I personally run the Holley/Hooker blackheart longtubes. No cats and dumped exhaust. You can still run your axle with an aftermarket x-pipe, etc. or you can run the longtubes into the factory connection and x-pipe with your axle back
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2017 1SS:Hi-Ram, FBO, OTR ram air,
Circle D converter.

Previous PB: 11.07 @124 1/4
7.1 @100 1/8 1.6 60’ w/2” longtubes,
95mm hi-ram,
OTR ramair, flex fuel
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