04-05-2018, 04:08 PM | #15 |
Drives: ZL1 A10 Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 306
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as far as I know it does not come in colors, however it is by far the best commonly available brake fluid. I have used them all and nothing comes close.
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04-05-2018, 05:24 PM | #16 | |
2018 1LE, NASA Instructor
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 235
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Quote:
As for dust, what dust? My wheels are the color of brake pad dust (won't have it any other way), and I pay $19.99/month for unlimited car washes. My goal is to have pads that work well enough on track, and don't scare the little kids with loud squeals on the street. Oh!, and I also stay away from Hawk's corrosive brake pad dust. |
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04-05-2018, 06:52 PM | #17 |
Drives: C3 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Yerintgton NV
Posts: 181
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I went with Maxima racing 600 Dot 4 , since I can get it from my distributor.
Should work great, as I have used in road race bikes, and also has good specs. http://www.maximausa.com/product/brake-fluid/ Cheers D |
04-05-2018, 08:46 PM | #18 | |
2018 1LE, NASA Instructor
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 235
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Quote:
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04-05-2018, 08:54 PM | #19 |
Drives: C3 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Yerintgton NV
Posts: 181
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04-06-2018, 11:46 AM | #20 | |
Drives: C3 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Yerintgton NV
Posts: 181
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Quote:
I will re bleed a bit after my auto cross next weekend, then it will be ready for a track day at the end of the month. Stock pads made a huge mess on my C7 and 1LE. As you know, different tracks and driving style have allot to do with if you need a full on race pad or not. I dont need a full race pad in the intermediate / advanced group where I plan to track. Ive run the Evolution Power Stop pads on both my last cars, and they work better than stock with 1/4 the brake dust. They seem to be easy on the rotors, zero squeals, fit well and dont break the bank. Great street and occasional track day pad. |
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04-06-2018, 03:45 PM | #21 | |
You can only YOLO once.
Drives: '16 2SS & '15 Subaru Forester Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 1,677
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Quote:
It really sucks that we can't have Super Blue anymore. I used to like to alternate blue and amber but now we are pretty much stuck with amber.
__________________
2016 Camaro 2ss
-Summit White / Ceramic White -8A, NPP, MRC, Ceramic White package plus knee pads, black bowties. -1st Car to have the "full" SEMA High Performance Graphics kit from 6LEDesigns. -1st Car to have the 6LEDesigns Blade Spoiler. -Borla S-Type w/ custom H-Pipe -Procharger P-1X Stage 2 |
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04-06-2018, 06:11 PM | #22 | |
Drives: 2013 C6Z06 Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: PA
Posts: 1,577
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Quote:
I've seen so many posts on here and Facebook where people buy these pads and wonder why their braking performance decreased or worse yet failed on track. Then I read posts like this one which adds to this scenario. Those pads are designed to decrease dust and that's about it. |
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04-06-2018, 11:33 PM | #23 | |
Drives: C3 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Yerintgton NV
Posts: 181
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Quote:
I never said they are a race pad. That's your opinion, I found they work at least as well as stock pads. What does fail mean, they burn up, over heat and you run off the track. I ran them on my C7 on at a couple track days and also on my 17 1LE. They worked just fine. Granted this was at Thunder Hill West that is not a super high speed track, but you still use the brakes hard. Im not the fastest, but not slow trust me. You make it sound like you install these and will have less dust, but are pure junk. Wrong, they are a good street and occasional track day pad. No need to argue about this D Last edited by dw760; 04-07-2018 at 11:31 AM. |
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04-07-2018, 11:26 AM | #24 |
Drives: C3 Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Yerintgton NV
Posts: 181
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04-14-2018, 05:40 PM | #25 |
Drives: '16 Garnet Red 1SS Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 3,450
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How long should I run the Motul 600 before flushing the system? I read it should be good for about 2 years.
Assume no track work.
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'16 Camaro 1SS
'18 Miata GT Gone: '01 Camaro, '14 Camaro, '90 Miata |
04-14-2018, 06:00 PM | #26 | |
2018 1LE, NASA Instructor
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: New England
Posts: 235
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Quote:
You can probably run it for several years without problems, if all you will do is drive on the street. But changing every couple of years is still a good idea to keep all the lines, calipers, etc free of corrosion. |
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05-13-2018, 08:54 PM | #27 |
Motul/Castrol
I just replaced mine at 14000 miles and that was way too late. The OEM fluid is pale straw color and this is well, um, boiled and pan fried pumpkin. Because I had extra fluid, I went around the whole car and rebled each fitting and the inside caliper was quite dirty even the second time. I will bleed every 3000 from now on. The pedal was getting soft. It is firm now. I used Castrol SRF. No color difference but a slight viscosity difference.
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05-15-2018, 09:56 AM | #28 | |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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Quote:
With RBF-600, which is my go-to, readily available and "cheap" brake fluid, I only keep the stuff in my car for a season, so less than a year, with multiple thorough re-bleeds (I push a lot of fluid out of the bleeders at each caliper and re-top-off). This is figuring, say, 4-6 track days a season. If you are only doing 2 or 3 a season, you can get away with a fluid flush about a year, max, and typical re-bleeds/checks. I don't bother with any company's "upper" versions (i.e. 660 vs 600) as the wet boiling point is typically NO different between the two and the dry boiling point isn't that significantly higher, either. Now, I am going to be switching over to Castrol React SRF as my main fluid, though. A few reasons: The wet boiling point is crazy (520 F). The wet boiling point is significantly higher than any brake fluid I've seen. The dry boiling point is also phenomenal, at 610 F. Although I am not doing any racing in my 1LE, or plan to do any serious tracking - really just doing it for fun in enjoying the car - my thought is, long term, it makes more sense. The fluid has a higher safety margin, so as it degrades/absorbs water, I can use the fluid longer before worrying about it. So, I can just do regular brake bleeds and minor top-offs. I also don't plan to run any crazy track pads, so I want the extra margin of safety with temperature competency. Lastly, according to it's viscosity specs, it is well within the design criteria for DOT 3/4, so the ability of ABS is not compromised (thinking in regards to what GM had to design the system to/with). Less flushes, a higher margin of safety and compatibility with ABS. Last edited by Mountain; 05-15-2018 at 10:08 AM. |
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