[topkat]

Hi all, just for my own curiosity, has a majority of you had warped brake rotors, bad (noisy) (grinding) wheel bearings,and growling noise in rear end as making a sharp turn? Maybe I’m just unlucky with my car or is most of these cars having these very common issues ??? 😳

[grampa_ss]

Only the growling/moan rear end noise that 99% here have during the first couple of turns early in the cold morning.

[Alpha1BC]

These don't sound like common issues at all. What makes you think you have warped rotors? Was the break-in procedure followed? If something is truly wrong, you should be able to take it to the dealer and have it fixed under warranty.

[Ryephile]

+1 you probably don't have warped rotors, but improperly bedded pads.

As for the grinding and growling, get it covered under warranty?

[ajp]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Only the growling/moan rear end noise that 99% here have during the first couple of turns early in the cold morning.

I thought it was just me, a muffled deep drum banging sound?

What is the consensus on cause?

[sadpanda]

Searchy Searchy...

Warped rotors more likely to be deposites... Get your rotors tuned and switch to some Akebonos or some other low dust ceramic instead of the Brembos

Growling during low speed turns? Limited slip diff does that OR you have an issue...

Wheel bearings... You rolling dubs or doing track days 3 days a week and max speed pot hole hunting in Detroit the other four days? Not a common issue unless you do something to accelerate wear.

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by ajp

I thought it was just me, a muffled deep drum banging sound?

What is the consensus on cause?

no banging...just a moan.

[topkat]

Thanks for your replies, I purchased car used last June with 13000 miles from a Chevy dealer and have driven about 5000 miles, total of 17000, developed vibration when braking above 40 mph, no racing, or hard use of brakes and a lot of road noise which I thought were fairly worn run flat tires, took to local dealer and had inspected, was told tires were too worn to safely road test brakes and noise I was hearing, took car home checked rotors with dial indicator and found rr was 7 thousandth out of round, I guess the tech at dealer didn’t know how to do this basic test or was just to sorry, took rotors to machine shop and had them trued up,solved brake vibration, replaced tires and still have growl in driveline, jacked car up and spun front tires, left front noisy as hell, guess I’ll go back to same dealer and if can’t fix this wheel bearing issue and drain diff for fluid inspection, I’ll change dealers if can’t or won’t repair.

[sadpanda]

In my experience when wheel bearings go they get loose too... Any darting around under braking? Did you grab the wheel and check for looseness? Did you check hubs for runout BEFORE checking the rotors? Were they grooved/hot spotted? How are the pads? How many mm left? Did you abrade them before re-assembly?

You say light use... What kind of dealer sells a car with tires so worn they are bald after 5k miles?

Kind of silly to assume any problems this car has are typical when you don't know it's history... Previous owner could have stuffed it into a curb and replaced the wheel and had it re-aligned and left you with a bad bearing. Previous owner could have done burnouts out of their driveway every morning and smoked the diff... You just don't know.

[topkat]

Hey sadpanda, thanks for your input, you are absolutely correct in saying that I don’t know history of car, wish I did, upon checking wheel bearings I found very little play just left side much noise than right side, no pulling or vibration as driving just roars from 2 or 3 mph right on up to 50 or so , thought for sure was run flats, were pretty unsmooth, rear rotors were warped about 7 thou of an inch, front 3 thousandth , roughed up rear pads with 220 grit sandpaper while rotors were off, seated them in after installation, now brakes are smooth and pads were like new, tires had 5/32 tread left on them but I was after noise, and do not like run flats, got app at dealer to check bearings and diff fluid. Then go from there. Rear tires were worn about same as front, no cuts, gouged or groves in tires, first thing I looked at when purchasing, all 4 wheels look like normal use, now is no better than the rest, so don’t think car was abused. In my experience as a gm certified tech and an awe certified matter tech, I checked car over and was satisfied no wrecks, or abuse, but find it a bit unusual to have these things happening to a year old Chevy, having owned 18 corvettes to date

[topkat]

Master tech, and ase tech. Correction

[sadpanda]

given the number of vettes and that you are taking it in for warranty work I'm assuming you are semi retired or retired.


As a tech, you know techs are on the front lines and will see common failures long before they are admitted by GM. Techs also get a better sampling of the population then we do here on enthusiasts forums... All to often complaints on forums are from relative non-enthusiasts/gear heads who have a problems and are looking to vent, thus amplifying the reality of the issue (case in point ATS 2.0T piston failures). Other times, forum using enthusiasts are the very first to identify an issue (Z06 valves, Z06 overheating etc). When I see posts worded like yours I tend to probe and see what camp the person is coming from.



Wheel bearings have been 'a thing' on vettes since C4 for those running track days/driving the car as it was intended and not just cruising to the golf course. As you know, gm transitioned to this non-serviceable cartridge style bearing for the entire fleet. Although there are not many people using their trucks for track days, truck owners have been experiencing bearing failures as well, usually accelerated by larger wheel combos/driving style (hence my earlier comment about dubs).


I always recommend dumping the runflats. Run flats do seem more internal structural failures then regular tires.


While you are waiting for tires you could do some other checking: If runout on bearing is good and there is no play, you could pop the ABS sensor off and inspect the reluctor ring/grease. If grease is brown or has water droplets, basically anything but clear and new looking you probably want to replace. Same with glints of metal shavings/chipped teeth etc.



I would check the LSD pre-load while you are at it. Techs *should* know how to do it but thats kind of hit or miss. If you need procedure let me know. I would check it before changing fluid.

[topkat]

Hello Badpanda, you are correct in that I am retired, however I still have all my tools and test equipment and do most maint and repairs to my vehicles. I am much more knowledgeable about vetted than any other vehicle. This is my first camaro and am learning from u guys on the forum and OjT. I’ve given the drivetrain and brake/suspension a very thorough inspection at the dealership when I purchased it, and it was a certified pre/owned vehicle. We could find no issues at that time, except tire noise , but the used car manager refused to replace the tires unless I paid them to. I decided I could buy them for a lot less at a hometown tire shop, but after I replaced tires loud growl remained ,this led to discovery of noisy left front wheel bearing. Also local dealer failure to test and see why brake pedal vibrated when slowing over 50 mph really agrevated me, simply because he blamed his reason for not finding warped/out of round rotor on half worn out tires and it was raining!!! When u and I know the proper test procedures is an inspection and test rotor/hub/wheel run out. Anyway taking to dealer next week for wheel bearing inspection and diff fluid change, whether I have to pay for it or not, listen, thanks for your input and knowledgeable information .

[topkat]

Correction -aggravated- vettes