[Drsagacity]

Looks like I was excited a bit early. I went out to the car after it sat in the garage for 30minutes and went to start...nothing.

Now I think we are onto something wired incorrectly. My first guess is the BAP. The guy that did that wiring was not confident in it because the only directions we could find were for NA applications. I didn't see how he did it, but I think I am going to investigate that first.

Any advice on disconnecting the BAP (or making sure it's wired correctly, would be appreciated.

I confirmed this morning, put a new fuse in for the starter fuse and the car started. The 40a fuse was dead. Car started and re-started with the 30a fuse.

Question: How should I check to figure out what is causing the starter fuse to blow? I assumed it was taking more to crank the car so I upped it from a 30a to a 40a. It still blew.

[d729596]

I just wired mine last week, no trouble so far. Wire harness going into Fpcm, peeled back covering. Took red wire with purple tracer, cut it. White wire from jms goes to cut wire on connector side. Red wire goes to cut wire on harness side. And grounded to body.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by d729596

I just wired mine last week, no trouble so far. Wire harness going into Fpcm, peeled back covering. Took red wire with purple tracer, cut it. White wire from jms goes to cut wire on connector side. Red wire goes to cut wire on harness side. And grounded to body.

When you added the boost a pump, did you add a larger fuse somewhere? Doing research all over, it looks like on the mustang they basically double the size of the fuse for the fuel pump.

Does it make any sense that the starter fuse would be blowing?

[Eyefixstuff]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

When you added the boost a pump, did you add a larger fuse somewhere? Doing research all over, it looks like on the mustang they basically double the size of the fuse for the fuel pump.

Does it make any sense that the starter fuse would be blowing?

Fuse f35 back there is supposed to get swapped out with a higher amp fuse that comes with the kit. Assuming you’re using the JMS one that is. Can’t remember what it does or how much bigger the fuse is, but I definitely needed to swap mine.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

Fuse f35 back there is supposed to get swapped out with a higher amp fuse that comes with the kit. Assuming you’re using the JMS one that is. Can’t remember what it does or how much bigger the fuse is, but I definitely needed to swap mine.

Ok. I just checked. It looks like the fuse was a 20a and mine is now set with a 30m.

I did try new fuses this morning and the car started. Bottom line is, something is causing the starter fuse to blow. If I am thinking about this correctly, the circuit should probably go from the battery + ignition switch + starter relay 1 + starter relay 2 + starter fuse...but, when I put a new fuse it, the circuit completes and the car starts. Just sitting, the car will start over and over again.

Geesh, this is gonna get expensive to guy fuses every time I take the car for a ride. I guess the good news is, I should be able to get some fuses and get the car to the mechanic once back so we can get this diagnosed. Thinking about what changed: wiring for BAP, wiring for gauges, wiring for exhaust (LT's)...if I limit to simply wiring. On the other hand, it's possible that the problem is heat induced also. Adding headers would definitely have added some more heat.


Here is the picture of what I see when I look for codes:

[oldman]

all the monitors in red are normal after a battery disconnect and will go away on their own. For me with a cam and a restrictor, the EGR will never go away.

If the starter is shorted because of the heat, it can burn up the fuse... whatever one goes to the hot on the starter, it is Big and it comes from the front fuse box, (not saying the fuse for the hot cable to the starter is in that box).

[Drsagacity]

Fingers crossed. Today I went over and pulled the voltage booster and changed the settings. It was setup for voltage sensor and it was set for 22volts, changed to 18. Instead, we set it to start based on a time (thought being the voltage booster wont kick in for 2.5 seconds after start). Of course, I really dont even know if that's how it works.

I have stopped and started the car a dozen times and tried to recreate the exact type of driving that I did before. Of course, I do have a couple more fuses so that in the case of a non-start, I am good to go.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by d729596

I just wired mine last week, no trouble so far. Wire harness going into Fpcm, peeled back covering. Took red wire with purple tracer, cut it. White wire from jms goes to cut wire on connector side. Red wire goes to cut wire on harness side. And grounded to body.

@d729596, do you know what pin settings you used to configure the BAP? Today, I pulled it out and checked the settings. I made some changes with the assumption that the configuration I had was causing the voltage to spike when I tried to start the car. Instead of having the BAP kick in immediately, we set it to work based on a time table (starting at 2.5 seconds).

I really don't understand, but I can tell you that I have now been driving around and got some really good logging sessions in...

[Eyefixstuff]

It should be coming in at a certain throttle % assuming you have it connected to the pedal harness? Mine doesnt add voltage at all until like ~60% throttle. Do you have the instructions for our cars? If not PM me your email and I will send you them.

[solobaric]

Hopefully you can get this all lined out. Maybe try heat wrap on the starter like oldman said just as a preventive measure.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by Eyefixstuff

It should be coming in at a certain throttle % assuming you have it connected to the pedal harness? Mine doesnt add voltage at all until like ~60% throttle. Do you have the instructions for our cars? If not PM me your email and I will send you them.

Thanks. iM sent.

I wasn’t there when they finished the wiring for the BAP. I have some questions for the guys when they get back, so now, anything that you can share would b great.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by solobaric

Hopefully you can get this all lined out. Maybe try heat wrap on the starter like oldman said just as a preventive measure.

For sure. My problem isn’t starter performance, it’s the voltage problem. Something is causing the fuse to pop and I suspect it’s the configuration on the BAP.

[KingLT1]

I advise against driving around with a cup holder full of fuses, replacing them when they pop. If a fuse is consistently blowing, then you have a problem that needs to be corrected before something burns up or catches fire. Fuses are meant to protect a system from shorts or too much amperage. Adding a bigger fuse to that specific circuit is a risk as well unless it has been tested that that specific circuit can handle more amperage.

[Slowhawk]

sounds like a starter problem. If the starter fuse is blowing, that should have nothing to do with the fuel system fuses.