[baron95]

Finally had a chance to take my recently purchased SS 1LE to a track day. Ran at Lime Rock Park (temperatures were 50-65, first 3 sessions damp/light rain, but good traction, last session dry but with a bit more traffic), all on instructor group.

Wanted to report on braking with stock rotors, pads, tires, etc. Lime Rock is not hard on brakes, and my car was still in the break in period so I was not wringing it to red line. I was running very consistent laps, with only the slightest bit of fade towards the end of 20 min at pace.

To give you an idea of how consistent the car and brakes were running, here is a screen cap of a string of 7 laps all in the 1.02.02 to 1.02.86, and that is navigating through at least one or two cars/lap. Car is just amazingly consistent. (for reference my personal best at LRP in my C7 Z51 was 59.79, and most of my C7 laps are in the 1.00.xx and 1.01.xx - so I was only about 1 sec off a C7 Z51 pace, without trying hard )

[baron95]

So how did the brakes do? How hot did they get. For stock pads, they were excellent. Initial bite is not that great and you need to press hard on the pedal, but modulation was very good, and fade resistance was also very good. They probably flaked a bit as brake grind/squeal was increasing on long brake zones (end of straight from ˜130MPH to ˜70MPH).

The Front and Rear Calipers only reached 290F and 250F respectively (see temp strips below).

The front and rear rotors both reached around 800C/˜1450F. This puts it in Carbotech XP10 territory, with its claimed fade resistance "in excess of 801C/1475F". (see rotor temp paint pictures below)


I was pleasantly surprised, after reading reports on this forum of astronomical brake caliper temperatures. Granted, Lime Rock is probably the easiest track on brakes that exists - so it is a best case scenario.

[baron95]

Now the only thing that got me a bit worried is that I had some streaking coming out of the bleed screws and being baked on the caliper surface on both fronts and one rear caliper. I cleaned the rear and it didn't recur. I cleaned the fronts twice and it recurred. I checked that the bleed screws were tight, and they were didn't move even while hot, when it tried to tighten them.

So not sure what is going on here - maybe some residual fluid under the rubber caps. Has anyone else seen this? (Fluid was Motul 600F)

[seanblurr]

The nipples seem to leak regardless how well you clean them after a bleed. I'm starting to gather this is normal as it happened on my SS1LE and now my ZL1 1LE. Your info seems to mimic what other people are finding. I would, however, bypass an XP10 completely (if you were thinking about getting a set).

[baron95]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

The nipples seem to leak regardless how well you clean them after a bleed. I'm starting to gather this is normal as it happened on my SS1LE and now my ZL1 1LE. Your info seems to mimic what other people are finding. I would, however, bypass an XP10 completely (if you were thinking about getting a set).

Good to know I'm not the only one seeing the leaks from the bleeders. I'm wondering if it just the little bit of fluid that sits on top of the bleeder under the rubber cap. I just never saw that happened in any other car with Brembo brakes.

As to XP10, not planning on running those. I have a front set of XP12s (ordered before doing more research), a donated F/R set of Power Stop Track Day pads, and for the rear a huge collection of left over Z51 pads (2 sets of OEMs, etc).

Which will such, if I like the OEMs, to have to run through all those, just to end up where I started

[cdb95z28]

The bleeders are not leaking. It is residual fluid left in the bleeder after bleeding. The bleeders point up, when you close the bleeder there is still some fluid left in the upper part. At the track it gets hot and pushes up and out causing the ugliness.
When I am done bleeding, I spray brakleen down inside the bleeder. I wrap a rag around it so it doesn't spray everywhere. I will do this two or three times, just a quick blast of Brakleen. I then take compressed air (air duster in a can) and again blow it out to remove all remaining liquids. Brakleen evaporates quickly, but the air blast is me being OCD. I then reinstall the black rubber cap.
I have never had "leaking" bleeders or the stains.
From your pic it looks as though it came out of the threads.
Doing this also helps clean out the threads. Many of us have had a bleeder break. Since the brake fluid is corrosive, it seizes the threads and gets super tight. I do not overtighten but had a rear bleeder get tough before I really focused on what the problem was. I did break it.

[R3ctivision]

Ditto, also seen the seeping stains. I cleaned it off after getting into the paddock.

Good to know about the methods to dry off the bleeder screws, thanks cdb!

[Pollock]

I went ahead and checked my bleeders. They are indeed full of fluid, and just from street driving the rubber caps are wet on the inside too.

It was easy to clean them up without taking the wheels off.

Glad I saw this thread.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

When I am done bleeding, I spray brakleen down inside the bleeder. I wrap a rag around it so it doesn't spray everywhere. I will do this two or three times, just a quick blast of Brakleen. I then take compressed air (air duster in a can) and again blow it out to remove all remaining liquids. Brakleen evaporates quickly, but the air blast is me being OCD.

Good to know. I just wonder why is it that I have never seen this streaking on any other vehicle with Brembo brakes that I have tracked for years. The only thing is that I'm running Motul 600F on the 1LE, and I used to run ATE 200 on all the other cars (mostly because you guys here made me paranoid that the 1LE calipers were running supper hot).

Is Motul 600/660 the common thread of the streaking?

Maybe ATE200 just evaporated and Motul 600 spills over when hot.

[baron95]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I do not overtighten but had a rear bleeder get tough before I really focused on what the problem was. I did break it.

My bleeder screws were super incredibly tight from the factory. So much so that I stopped trying to open, thought about it and made sure I was turning in the right direction. I had to put a ton of force to open them. I do tighten them quite a bit. But the way they came from the factory was ridiculous.

Seeing that my calipers didn't get very hot at all, I wished I had run first track day with stock fluid just to be able to report on its performance and get a baseline for others.

[carguy55]

I cleaned by bleeders and caps before a track day at COTA thanks to this thread. I had the streaks running down the full length of the calipers in front only after my last run. Of course at COTA you're braking form 140 down to 30 and a couple 100-120 to 30 every lap. Could smell those hot brakes. Using stock pads and SRF

[Boost Creep]

Does the brake fluid damage the finish on the calipers?

[R3ctivision]

I didn't have any damage that I could see. Nothing stayed on there longer than a few hours though. It can get caked on pretty hard, I used bug and tar remover spray to help clean it off.

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

The bleeders are not leaking. It is residual fluid left in the bleeder after bleeding. The bleeders point up, when you close the bleeder there is still some fluid left in the upper part. At the track it gets hot and pushes up and out causing the ugliness.
When I am done bleeding, I spray brakleen down inside the bleeder. I wrap a rag around it so it doesn't spray everywhere. I will do this two or three times, just a quick blast of Brakleen. I then take compressed air (air duster in a can) and again blow it out to remove all remaining liquids. Brakleen evaporates quickly, but the air blast is me being OCD. I then reinstall the black rubber cap.
I have never had "leaking" bleeders or the stains.
From your pic it looks as though it came out of the threads.
Doing this also helps clean out the threads. Many of us have had a bleeder break. Since the brake fluid is corrosive, it seizes the threads and gets super tight. I do not overtighten but had a rear bleeder get tough before I really focused on what the problem was. I did break it.

The bleeders leak, for a lot of people. Mine did at Chuckwalla, and they were torqued properly, plus I clean out the inside of the nipples with brake parts cleaner after every brake bleed. Doesn't matter how much you clean them, some does get by under heavy braking loads.