[Mark R]

Originally Posted by motorhead

Changing the oil before hand is a waste unless it was do for a change. The oil can collect consdensation from sitting the winter. That is why you change it at the end of storing it.

Just because you changed the oil 5 months ago doesnt mean it wont have moisture in it in the spring. Change the oil before you start it if you are that worried about. That's what I do in the cars I dont run at all in those five months.

I'm of the opinion that one should change it before storage, to get rid of the acids and gunk that the oil is designed to hold in suspension. If the new oil gets condensation over the winter, then a good hour or so of driving should boil that water right off.

YMMV

[Hulkamaniac]

Things to do to prepare your car PROPERLY for winter storage so you can just turn the key in the spring...

1. Change the oil(last year's oil has been contaminated by the normal combustion process of the engine and this contamination can cause acidic erosion of seals and gaskets).

2. Sea Foam(fuel stabilizer) or other brand of fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, then fill up(having a full tank prevents rust and condensation inside the fuel tank), and drive for a few miles to ensure stabilizer circulates throughout the fuel system.

3. Detail car inside and out.

4. Pump the tires up to 45 psi to avoid flatspotting if you don't have "FlatSpotters" to prevent it.

5. DO NOT put your car on jack stands or blocks under the frame. This lets the suspension droop and puts the springs and bushings in an unnatural state.

6. In an unheated garage, cover garage floor with a waterproof tarp as moisture barrier. Heated garage, you're good.

7. Cardboard or carpeting under tires to add another layer of protection between floor and tires. Concrete draws moisture out of the rubber, shortening tire life and speeding up dry-rot.

8. Moth balls by the tires and/or dryer sheets in the interior/trunk to keep critters away.

9. PLAIN/UNTREATED charcoal briquettes or a couple boxes baking soda in the passenger cabin and trunk to absorb odors.

10. Steel wool in exhaust pipes to keep critters out(leave note on stearing wheel or pinned to the car cover as a reminder).

11. Then hook up battery tender and plug in or you can remove the battery or you can just disconnect the ground cable from the battery.

12. Cover car with a NOAH or similar breathable car cover.

13. Then walk away till spring.

14. DO NOT start until ready to drive it again in the spring. Letting car sit and idle for any amount of time DOES NOT get rid of the condensation that is created in the exhaust system and engine.

15. Check with your finance company to see if you can drop full coverage and just keep comprehensive since the car will be in storage. Some will allow it, some won't.

[Can'tHave2MuchHP]

Originally Posted by Hulkamaniac

Things to do to prepare your car PROPERLY for winter storage so you can just turn the key in the spring...

1. Change the oil(last year's oil has been contaminated by the normal combustion process of the engine and this contamination can cause acidic erosion of seals and gaskets).

2. Sea Foam(fuel stabilizer) or other brand of fuel stabilizer in the fuel tank, then fill up(having a full tank prevents rust and condensation inside the fuel tank), and drive for a few miles to ensure stabilizer circulates throughout the fuel system.

3. Detail car inside and out.

4. Pump the tires up to 45 psi to avoid flatspotting if you don't have "FlatSpotters" to prevent it.

5. DO NOT put your car on jack stands or blocks under the frame. This lets the suspension droop and puts the springs and bushings in an unnatural state.

6. In an unheated garage, cover garage floor with a waterproof tarp as moisture barrier. Heated garage, you're good.

7. Cardboard or carpeting under tires to add another layer of protection between floor and tires. Concrete draws moisture out of the rubber, shortening tire life and speeding up dry-rot.

8. Moth balls by the tires and/or dryer sheets in the interior/trunk to keep critters away.

9. PLAIN/UNTREATED charcoal briquettes or a couple boxes baking soda in the passenger cabin and trunk to absorb odors.

10. Steel wool in exhaust pipes to keep critters out(leave note on stearing wheel or pinned to the car cover as a reminder).

11. Then hook up battery tender and plug in or you can remove the battery or you can just disconnect the ground cable from the battery.

12. Cover car with a NOAH or similar breathable car cover.

13. Then walk away till spring.

14. DO NOT start until ready to drive it again in the spring. Letting car sit and idle for any amount of time DOES NOT get rid of the condensation that is created in the exhaust system and engine.

15. Check with your finance company to see if you can drop full coverage and just keep comprehensive since the car will be in storage. Some will allow it, some won't.

This is 10/10. Will be following what applies of this plan.

[Dethsupp0rt]

Put it in park, put a battery tender on it, put some Stabil in, put a cover on it.

It's not an exotic, guys. It'll all be OK.

[Noreplacement]

Originally Posted by Can'tHave2MuchHP

This is 10/10. Will be following what applies of this plan.

+1.

[motorhead]

When I put my tractors, mowers, trimmers and leaf blowers away for the winter i fill them all with fuel and that's it except for battery maintainers. My dad and father in law both pay people to "winterize" all their stuff. Every year my stuff all fires right up with no issues. At least one of their's has issues every year it seems. They are old school and just believe you need to do all this stuff. The moral of the story is you dont. In the spring, i change oil ,filters, sharpen blades and grease. Another trouble free summer ahead most of the time. It doesnt hurt a car to set for 4 for 5 months. The biggest thing you need to worry about is roddents and the battery. The rest is just to make you feel good. I will say this is based on the car being stored inside.

[Alain]

Originally Posted by Mark R

I'm of the opinion that one should change it before storage, to get rid of the acids and gunk that the oil is designed to hold in suspension. If the new oil gets condensation over the winter, then a good hour or so of driving should boil that water right off.

YMMV

Exactly why I do it !!!

that little bit of condensation in the oil will burn right off after you drive it.

id rather deal with a little condensation then used oil sitting in the pan and in the engine (whatever doesn't drain out of the engine over the winter).

In my opinion, changing it first thing in the spring still has it's draw back when the oil wasn't changed in the winter, you're supposed to get the oil up to temp before you change it, that will circulate that old/used oil through the engine.

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by Alain

Exactly why I do it !!!

that little bit of condensation in the oil will burn right off after you drive it.

id rather deal with a little condensation then used oil sitting in the pan and in the engine (whatever doesn't drain out of the engine over the winter).

In my opinion, changing it first thing in the spring still has it's draw back when the oil wasn't changed in the winter, you're supposed to get the oil up to temp before you change it, that will circulate that old/used oil through the engine.

these new synthetic oils aren’t as viscous when cold , and the car has had months for all the oil to drain into the pan. no problem changing the oil before running.

[Alain]

Originally Posted by motorhead

these new synthetic oils aren’t as viscous when cold , and the car has had months for all the oil to drain into the pan. no problem changing the oil before running.

that's a great point you make

[IneedAZ]

Funny, you guys are getting ready to put your cars in storage and i can't wait to finally start driving mine again. Think i have driven it twice in the last 45 days :(

[motorhead]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

Funny, you guys are getting ready to put your cars in storage and i can't wait to finally start driving mine again. Think i have driven it twice in the last 45 days :(

If this heat doent soon break, we may not need to park them for very long. The 80's in mid October is crazy here in PA.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by motorhead

If this heat doent soon break, we may not need to park them for very long. The 80's in mid October is crazy here in PA.

For me its a trifecta...heat, daily down pours causing lots of standing water, and bugs(especially love bugs)