[Daniel20162ss]

Ok guys, getting ready to drop the motor back down in my car after the build and have a few unansered questions. Ill start with the mod list of whats done.

Engine:
Carrillo forged piston/rod combo(drops to 10.5/1 compression
Pray Stage 2 blower cam-0* lockout and supporting items
Katech ported heads
1-7/8 kooks headers to offroad pipes
D1sc procharger/stage 2 a2a/red race valve
High flow lt4 injectors/hpfp
I do also have a zl1 intank(not installed yet), along with a smg low side pump.
Snow performance stage 2 progressive meth/water dual #5(375ml) nozzles

Trans:
Hurst short throw
Light weight flywheel
Stage 3 dual disc clutch

Suspension:
Bmr springs
Dss axles

First question is whether I really need to drop the tank to do the zl1 pump since I am installing the smg low side aux pump. I dont want to unless I need to, but will.

Second question is what pulley I need for my setup. Before the internals and on stock compression I was running the 4.5” pulley making right at 10lbs at 6400rpm. Keep in mind, heads are now cnc ported and pistons dropped compression ratio.

Im looking to take the lt4 equipment just under max on 93oct, have a tune for that and just using the meth for cooling/off, and then another strip tune using the meth for added fuel with more timing etc.

Last but not least, i bought a .060 fuel lash cap to run on my 32% lobe and lt4 hpfp. Everything Ive read says this is what I want to do and not to use the .080 you would with lt1 hpfp or it will over stroke it, but verifying this would make me feel good.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Daniel20162ss

Ok guys, getting ready to drop the motor back down in my car after the build and have a few unansered questions. Ill start with the mod list of whats done.

Engine:
Carrillo forged piston/rod combo(drops to 10.5/1 compression
Pray Stage 2 blower cam-0* lockout and supporting items
Katech ported heads
1-7/8 kooks headers to offroad pipes
D1sc procharger/stage 2 a2a/red race valve
High flow lt4 injectors/hpfp
I do also have a zl1 intank(not installed yet), along with a smg low side pump.
Snow performance stage 2 progressive meth/water dual #5(375ml) nozzles

Trans:
Hurst short throw
Light weight flywheel
Stage 3 dual disc clutch

Suspension:
Bmr springs
Dss axles

First question is whether I really need to drop the tank to do the zl1 pump since I am installing the smg low side aux pump. I dont want to unless I need to, but will.

Second question is what pulley I need for my setup. Before the internals and on stock compression I was running the 4.5” pulley making right at 10lbs at 6400rpm. Keep in mind, heads are now cnc ported and pistons dropped compression ratio.

Im looking to take the lt4 equipment just under max on 93oct, have a tune for that and just using the meth for cooling/off, and then another strip tune using the meth for added fuel with more timing etc.

Last but not least, i bought a .060 fuel lash cap to run on my 32% lobe and lt4 hpfp. Everything Ive read says this is what I want to do and not to use the .080 you would with lt1 hpfp or it will over stroke it, but verifying this would make me feel good.

Yes drop the tank.

You will want to add a JMS fuel pump voltage booster also to help with fuel supply because it will be an issue.

Or a DSX low side fuel system.

I would go with a 4.25 inch pulley to start as you will be limited on pump gas to about 12-13 psi boost and you will likely be spinning the engine another 500 rpm

Do Not take advice from Forums regarding lash caps, Check with your cam supplier on the lash cap requirement as everyone's 32% lobe is not the same.

Ted.

[Sixgunsled]

D1SC max propeller speed is 62,000 rpm. You need to know what your new redline will be at on the new engine set up. For example the stock redline is 6500rpm and after my engine build it was 7400rpm. I will be on 100% e85 with forged internals and secondary port injection fuel system. So to figure out what pulley I needed to max out the D1SC blower you divide the stock crank pulley size (7.48 if memory serves) by the pulley size you want to run (3.70) then multiply that by the procharger step up ratio (4.1) and multiply that by your engine redline (7400) and you get 61.336. That final number is the procharger propeller rpm. So that is the smallest pulley I can go on the D1SC. If you overspin the unit you just create excess heat and start to lose power. This formula came from procharger as I just called them yesterday and was going through the same process. I just need to upgrade to a larger head unit. The engine can support 1200 hp easily now.

[oldman]

There is no one size shim fits, you have to measure and grind. Mine came out to something sub .40. I think the .060 shimm is just a LS7 valve lash cap, anyway if I had that to start, it would have taken a whole lot less grinding.

I surprised you are making that much boost with the 4.5 pulley and stock engine. I show (we have about the same build) 4.0 pulley and a P1sc 6.5+ PSI, with a 4.5 pulley and a D1X 6.5+ PSI, just touching 7 PSI on the shift.

The stage II cam had an impressive top end, is the redline 7400?

[Daniel20162ss]

Ted, I do already have the low side auxilary kit, was just wondering if I needed to drop the tabk to do the zl1 intank on top of the low side aux. As far as the lash cap goes, ive got diferent ansers from the same company. Texas speed cam with pray grind. Had the 32% lobe. Ive talked to two different people at tsp, one told me to not use the .080 lash cap that came with the kit(its for lt1 pump), and to not use a lash cap at all. The other guy also told me not to used the .080 lash cap, but instead order a ls7 .060 lash cap and install it for max fueling. Sooo, i took advice from both, one think being to throw away that .080 cap, and for max fueling to go with the .060 cap. I am ready to start the car for the first time today, but im a little scared as to whether the lash cap is correct or not. Im half tempted to tear it back apart and remove the lash cap all together.

Sixgunsled & oldman,
I was suprised that It was making 10lbs also. Most people ive see wind up somewhere between 6-8lbs. I called procharger and they told me it was simply because of air density. They told me reving to 6600, id be maxxing my d1sc out with a 3.4, but obviously that will change with cam and reving higher. Completly honest, no idea what I should be revving too with prays stage 2 blower grind. I bought a 3.7 pulley, thinking I was making 10lbs, but adding the cam and having the heads cnc ported im sure ill loose some boost, but I expect to have to go up a size or two in pulleys

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Daniel20162ss

Ted, I do already have the low side auxilary kit, was just wondering if I needed to drop the tabk to do the zl1 intank on top of the low side aux. As far as the lash cap goes, ive got diferent ansers from the same company. Texas speed cam with pray grind. Had the 32% lobe. Ive talked to two different people at tsp, one told me to not use the .080 lash cap that came with the kit(its for lt1 pump), and to not use a lash cap at all. The other guy also told me not to used the .080 lash cap, but instead order a ls7 .060 lash cap and install it for max fueling. Sooo, i took advice from both, one think being to throw away that .080 cap, and for max fueling to go with the .060 cap. I am ready to start the car for the first time today, but im a little scared as to whether the lash cap is correct or not. Im half tempted to tear it back apart and remove the lash cap all together.

Sixgunsled & oldman,
I was suprised that It was making 10lbs also. Most people ive see wind up somewhere between 6-8lbs. I called procharger and they told me it was simply because of air density. They told me reving to 6600, id be maxxing my d1sc out with a 3.4, but obviously that will change with cam and reving higher. Completly honest, no idea what I should be revving too with prays stage 2 blower grind. I bought a 3.7 pulley, thinking I was making 10lbs, but adding the cam and having the heads cnc ported im sure ill loose some boost, but I expect to have to go up a size or two in pulleys

Texas speed grinds JRE custom cams for us and we do not use a lash cap with LT4 pump.

[Daniel20162ss]

Thanks Ted,

After speaking with you, brett, and now tsp directly, looks like im taking the intake back off along with the hpfp to remove that lash cap. Not mad a bit though, definatly wouldnt have been happy if that little lash cap would have sent my fuel pump out of the block. Lol

On another note, I need to install my aux pump also. Would you recommned going and ahead and doing the in tank also, or will the aux pump be plenty? If I can keep from dropping the tabk for now that would be hreat. But if I need to drop it for the zl1 pump to go in I will.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Daniel20162ss

Thanks Ted,

After speaking with you, brett, and now tsp directly, looks like im taking the intake back off along with the hpfp to remove that lash cap. Not mad a bit though, definatly wouldnt have been happy if that little lash cap would have sent my fuel pump out of the block. Lol

On another note, I need to install my aux pump also. Would you recommned going and ahead and doing the in tank also, or will the aux pump be plenty? If I can keep from dropping the tabk for now that would be hreat. But if I need to drop it for the zl1 pump to go in I will.

You will likely be fine with the Aux pump added to your stock pump.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Daniel20162ss

Ted, I do already have the low side auxilary kit, was just wondering if I needed to drop the tabk to do the zl1 intank on top of the low side aux. As far as the lash cap goes, ive got diferent ansers from the same company. Texas speed cam with pray grind. Had the 32% lobe. Ive talked to two different people at tsp, one told me to not use the .080 lash cap that came with the kit(its for lt1 pump), and to not use a lash cap at all. The other guy also told me not to used the .080 lash cap, but instead order a ls7 .060 lash cap and install it for max fueling. Sooo, i took advice from both, one think being to throw away that .080 cap, and for max fueling to go with the .060 cap. I am ready to start the car for the first time today, but im a little scared as to whether the lash cap is correct or not. Im half tempted to tear it back apart and remove the lash cap all together.

Sixgunsled & oldman,
I was suprised that It was making 10lbs also. Most people ive see wind up somewhere between 6-8lbs. I called procharger and they told me it was simply because of air density. They told me reving to 6600, id be maxxing my d1sc out with a 3.4, but obviously that will change with cam and reving higher. Completly honest, no idea what I should be revving too with prays stage 2 blower grind. I bought a 3.7 pulley, thinking I was making 10lbs, but adding the cam and having the heads cnc ported im sure ill loose some boost, but I expect to have to go up a size or two in pulleys

Go with Pray port and polish for the win.... it runs strong. Check the pulley it should have the size stamped on it. Pray has a dyno with a stage II cam and it was impressive to say the least...

If I ran the .080 or the .060 LS7 lash cap, I would have pounded the pump off the engine.

[Daniel20162ss]

I removed the lash cap all together yesterday and bolted everything back in. First fire up went great, no leaks, some slight surging but smoothed out and sounded great for a start up file. Im in love with it. The pulley is indeed a 4.5” pulley, but im sure the 10lbs I was seeing will be less now that I have the cam and ported heads. Rickifast is tuning it per bretts recomendation and he has been great to deal with thus far. He is very confident the car will be a monster. He had me buy a 3.7 pully to start out with and we will see where that will take us. Im logging some idle time along with driving it around the block today to send to rick for adjustments, then the fun starts! Trying to run my fuel out thats in the car so I can do the low sides easier. Please Ohio, give me some decent weather to have some fun before winter storage! Lol

Thanks for the help guys, may have saved my fuel pump or valley cover or both!

[Sixgunsled]

Originally Posted by Daniel20162ss

Ted, I do already have the low side auxilary kit, was just wondering if I needed to drop the tabk to do the zl1 intank on top of the low side aux. As far as the lash cap goes, ive got diferent ansers from the same company. Texas speed cam with pray grind. Had the 32% lobe. Ive talked to two different people at tsp, one told me to not use the .080 lash cap that came with the kit(its for lt1 pump), and to not use a lash cap at all. The other guy also told me not to used the .080 lash cap, but instead order a ls7 .060 lash cap and install it for max fueling. Sooo, i took advice from both, one think being to throw away that .080 cap, and for max fueling to go with the .060 cap. I am ready to start the car for the first time today, but im a little scared as to whether the lash cap is correct or not. Im half tempted to tear it back apart and remove the lash cap all together.

Sixgunsled & oldman,
I was suprised that It was making 10lbs also. Most people ive see wind up somewhere between 6-8lbs. I called procharger and they told me it was simply because of air density. They told me reving to 6600, id be maxxing my d1sc out with a 3.4, but obviously that will change with cam and reving higher. Completly honest, no idea what I should be revving too with prays stage 2 blower grind. I bought a 3.7 pulley, thinking I was making 10lbs, but adding the cam and having the heads cnc ported im sure ill loose some boost, but I expect to have to go up a size or two in pulleys

With the cam and forged internals I just installed I should be redlining around 72-7400rpm. I'm basing that off of the fact that my build is pretty much identical to Kevin Martin's build minus the meth. For those who dont know he holds the record for stock cubic inch single power adder 6th gen camaro. I've asked him a million questions during my build process and he has been super helpful. His name on here is hogwild87

[Daniel20162ss]

Sixgun, any info you have thats worthwhile to me, send my way into pm. Id greatly appreciate