[TBAtilidk]

I have used the search function and haven't gotten a great understanding.

Some backstory: Over the last year I have had the slow crank appear and when it initially got worse, It started as a slow crank (chug-chug...chug-chug..... chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-ch-ch- startup) and then eventually it stopped cranking at all. Consulted a chevy dealer, we all know how that goes. Tested the battery, looked fine, said nothing is wrong with the starter. I replaced the battery and seemed to go away. I did some searching and understood the 16's came without any heat shield wrapping around the starter and would cause some issues with turning over the car.

Came back a little while ago hard and then I eventually threw a check engine light about two days ago on the way to work. I drove it to work and by the time I got off it went away. I plugged an OBDII up and got P0336, Crankshaft position Sensor A.

Point of this post is I'm leaning towards swapping the crankshaft position sensor and inspecting the old one. But I'm reading some of it could be bad wire grounds. I'm looking for some direction/advice if anyone has dealt with this and any recommendations..

Car - 2016 SS, 63000 miles, no engine mods

[bdavies11]

Had the same problem here. Had a new negative cable replaced from the battery. Didn't fix it. Had the starter wrapped in a heat resistance material. Didn't fix it. Had another ground wire installed. Didn't fix it. The last thing I had done, was to replace the battery even though it was passing all the dealers tests and I haven't had a slow crank once in 6 months. I'm expecting the issue to return again at some point but for now, the slow crank/no crank seems to have been resolved with a new battery.

[TBAtilidk]

Originally Posted by bdavies11

Had the same problem here. Had a new negative cable replaced from the battery. Didn't fix it. Had the starter wrapped in a heat resistance material. Didn't fix it. Had another ground wire installed. Didn't fix it. The last thing I had done, was to replace the battery even though it was passing all the dealers tests and I haven't had a slow crank once in 6 months. I'm expecting the issue to return again at some point but for now, the slow crank/no crank seems to have been resolved with a new battery.

Yeah I'm about 4-5 months after a new battery and the problem seems to still persist. I'm sure it has to originate with the amp distance between the starter and battery being stressed under heat conditions but I'm just not sure where to go from here cause it problem has caused some other issues by default.

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by TBAtilidk

Yeah I'm about 4-5 months after a new battery and the problem seems to still persist. I'm sure it has to originate with the amp distance between the starter and battery being stressed under heat conditions but I'm just not sure where to go from here cause it problem has caused some other issues by default.

Check the wiring and routing, make sure the harness isn't near high output things like spark plugs.

If the code wasn't present when you went to the dealership, they may not have suspected CPS, since it would throw a code. Since you should still be under powertrain warranty, it might be worth a shot now that you have a DTC. Especially if it has anything to do with the reluctor wheel. Use that warranty while you have it.

[TBAtilidk]

Thanks MrChrisLS3.

Wires look to be in good condition. I'm going go ahead and swap the CPS and still debating if I need to just go ahead and replace the starter while I'm down there.