[BlackbeastSS2]

My temps were too high last dyno and was advised to basically use 98 octane to avoid knock. I am running meth for cooling already but the shop that did the tune suggested run a FI Interchiller. So I do some of my own DIY mods but with this car I have sunk a lot money into and wanted the professional to do it. Well that didn’t go as planned. The shop after two weeks have not been able to get it going, the only thing they at least got going was the cabin air which I am great full.

So I have been so some digging around and their routing of the system is questionable. At first I was going to say a few things before they started, like get rid of my heat exchanger. They did not. You can run these with heat exchangers but the majority of what I saw on internet was get rid of it. It’s either the solenoid or the by pass valve with a combination of the routing thats the reason it’s not working IMO. The flow of the coolant is just getting a touch cooler.

I don’t like the by pass valve so I have searched for a mechanical valve that will not need a switch to divert the heat exchanger and just opens or closes on a temperature of 95. I talked to the company and they said it will work 100% and FI Interchiller will actually work better. (One check mark complete.)

Now I decide to search for a complete wiring system with a relay that would work when the car is turned on. I found a company that makes one and include an inline pump that will help increase the flow. (Second check mark complete)

I have to make sure the shop used the right Freon. (134A Freon I believe)

I don’t like to tell people how to do their jobs especially when they say they no what they are doing or watch over their shoulders but in this case I should have possibly held their hand. I think some shops just want to do cookie cutter builds and their own parts, they don’t treat your build as if it’s their own. That’s the problem.

I have to order the parts, inspect the routing of their install which I can tell already is not correct. I held back some money and at least got my car back. I am on good terms with the shop and after I get it running I will show them how it should have been done. Below in the pictures there is a diagram of how I want the system running and how I will finish/fix the routing with the new by pass valve. The pump wired into the system on start up will be nice.

Stay tuned, I will update. Going to the drag strip on July 23 to test out the car and I wish i would have the chiller running by then but I really don’t see that happening. But I definitely want to see what the car can do.

https://pnptechworks.com/online-stor...2orb-ports-bcc

https://joltsystems.net/products/bos...-relay-harness

[Joshinator99]

That valve looks perfect, nice find! That should be included in all of these chiller kits in my opinion…. Feel like the installation info out there for our cars is partial, at best. Hopefully you’ll get this dialed in soon.

[adamjwilson]

You will be very disappointed in that Bosch pump... mine lasted a whopping 2 minutes on the new install of the Whipple (that is what Whipple provided and would not warranty it upon failure). Suggest you upgrade to the VariMax intercooler pump.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by adamjwilson

You will be very disappointed in that Bosch pump... mine lasted a whopping 2 minutes on the new install of the Whipple (that is what Whipple provided and would not warranty it upon failure). Suggest you upgrade to the VariMax intercooler pump.

Thanks for the input, in my back of my mind I was thinking something more robust. Vari Max isn’t that what the ZL1 come with stock?

Looking at FI Interchiller web site they recommend the
PIERBURG CWA400 as an upgraded pump.

[adamjwilson]

VariMax is the pump ZL1s comes with I believe. I put the Pierburg pump on mine as that is what I replaced the faulty Bosch pump with....much superior pump

[adamjwilson]

BTW... no E in your area? If available, E85 is the way to go. I run E50ish thru mine. Move away from that pump gas or super expensive racing fuel.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Thanks for the input, in my back of my mind I was thinking something more robust. Vari Max isn’t that what the ZL1 come with stock?

Looking at FI Interchiller web site they recommend the
PIERBURG CWA400 as an upgraded pump.

Pierburg > Varimax

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by adamjwilson

BTW... no E in your area? If available, E85 is the way to go. I run E50ish thru mine. Move away from that pump gas or super expensive racing fuel.

No E in my area sadly.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

As the title says disappointment but not beaten.

I know a shop here that does a constant stream of FII. When I touched the blower, it felt like a freezer. Mine is water, and I've had a PIERBURG CWA400 on my upgrade list for a while.

[parish8]

I don’t see the point in the bypass and hx. Run none of that and just leave the ac on all the time or off if you don’t need it and don’t plan on racing.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by parish8

I don’t see the point in the bypass and hx. Run none of that and just leave the ac on all the time or off if you don’t need it and don’t plan on racing.

I think you’re right about the bypass valve and HX the more I think about it. The attach pic is what I am thinking of doing now. Upgrading the pump is a must IMO.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

I think you’re right about the bypass valve and HX the more I think about it. The attach pic is what I am thinking of doing now. Upgrading the pump is a must IMO.

Yeah I remember telling you to instruct your shop to ditch the HX. The HX would really only be needed if you road course the car. Chiller is fine for street and strip use. There’s no harm in having the HX but it adds weight and complication that you really don’t need.

Also agree on the pump upgrade since you’re now pushing through two heat exchangers back to back (not just the blower anymore) so your pump needs to generate the differential pressure needed to properly pump through both at a decent GPM.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Yeah I remember telling you to instruct your shop to ditch the HX. The HX would really only be needed if you road course the car. Chiller is fine for street and strip use.

Also agree on the pump upgrade since you’re now pushing through two heat exchangers back to back (not just the blower anymore) so your pump needs to generate the differential pressure needed to properly pump through both at a decent GPM.

I do remember that but I really didn’t think the shop was going to route thru the HX. They said they have done it before, lesson learnt. But it’s on their dime now to fix it and they said they would because they don’t have full payment yet. But getting rid of the bypass is a new thing. It’s all good, we all have to learn thru trial and error to get stronger.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Okay I hope I explain this right because I have talked to FI Interchiller and Kirk has helped me out a lot now.

First I would like to say I bought this off a member here on the Fourm and not direct from FI Interchiller with no directions in the box. Also the shop that is doing the install said they no how to do it, but sadly couldn’t get it running. I am just trying to get it running from members help here on the forum and now with FI Interchiller support. This is not a product fail, it’s an install fail trying to be corrected.

So what I have been told is what some have suggested already, get rid of the heat exchanger and bypass valve. The system with stock reservoir and my expansion tank in the fender has to be gravity feed to chiller which thankfully it is.

From FI:
Your flow should be:
DMS fender tank
pump
chiller
supercharger

If you retain the HX then it will be:
DMS fender tank
pump
bypass valve to both HX and chiller
supercharger

Looking forward to straightening out this so the chiller works as it should. Thanks to all for input.