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12-05-2019, 11:04 PM
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#1 |
           
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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anyone actually remove a M6 from a SS
how did you get the top bellhousing bolts? Didnt look like dropping the cradle as per gm manual would help. just make them closer to the firewall. Thinking of pulling the intake manifold. does the shifter have to come off. those front pins are HELL.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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12-06-2019, 12:55 PM
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#2 |
Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: North Ga
Posts: 1,786
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I don't recall having any difficulty accessing any of the bell housing bolts, but I did have my blower off when removing and reinstalling these bolts. Removing the manifold may be the ticket. Wish I could remember more detail...
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Baby Blue
2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned |
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12-06-2019, 01:26 PM
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#3 |
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Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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im on the top bolt now trying to figure out a way to get the harness off then its out
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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12-06-2019, 01:42 PM
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#4 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro SS 1LE (F1A-94 FBO H/C) Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 843
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I didn't have any trouble reaching them from what I remember, it would make it way easier for you to get to the top bolts by not having the heads on. you do have to drop the cradle to get your M6 out though. trust me... no way around it.
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Performance Mods: F1A-94, DSX Flex Fuel Kit, MSD Spark Plug Wires, KOOK 2" off road headers, MBRP Race catback exhaust, Pray Performance Custom Boost Cam, Rocker Arm Trunion Upgrade Kit, 7.850" Hardened Chromemoly Length Pushrods and Johnson Racing 2110R Lifters, TSP CNC'd Heads, Ported MSD intake manifold, 103mm Katech Throttle body, Forged Pistons/Rods, RPM Meth kit, DSX Aux Fuel system, AEM Failsafe and banks gauge, LT4 HPFP, LT4 injectors, BMR motor mounts, Hurst Short Throw, Manley SS exhaust valves
Videos of my car? Check here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNi...Qy1OL4NVGlPogw |
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12-06-2019, 07:47 PM
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#5 |
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Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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you you have to loosen the front 4 cradle bolts a few threads from out and remove the other 4. separate the steering shaft. the 16 gm manual doesn't say that. here is the proper way
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
Last edited by JCunningham; 12-07-2019 at 10:37 PM. |
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