[Mark114]

Putting the car into "Transport Mode" will reduce the battery drain while the car is sitting in storage. Although this isn't likely to completely solve the problem it might help.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454614

The Camaro MAY be shipped in transport mode. To remove the car from transport mode, turn ON the four way flasher and place the driver’s foot on the brake AND on the clutch if it is a manual transmission. Press and hold the Start button for approximately 15 seconds. At this point the engine will START, but CONTINUE to hold the start button for approximately 15 seconds. Information will display on the center of the cluster that will indicate when transport mode has been turned OFF. Transport mode can be entered using the same procedure.

[Glen e]

Transport mode doesn’t do a whole hell of a lot… It certainly doesn’t solve the problem of the mysterious Camaro draining batteries…

[bdavies11]

Originally Posted by drewspr00

Let us know what if you find out anything different! I'm hoping that the fact we haven't heard much followup about the 2nd ground wire means it worked and people never came back to update the posts.

My fear is that my dealer does "insert random thing here" and sends it back home with me and I don't experience the issue again until next summer because I think this may be the last couple of days of really warm weather in the Charlotte area for the year. I never had any problems in weather below say, 85*. It's only the really hot days that it becomes a problem and so my fear is that it's not actually fixed, but that the weather may fix it, at least until next summer when I get stranded somewhere on a 90* day.

[drewspr00]

Originally Posted by bdavies11

My fear is that my dealer does "insert random thing here" and sends it back home with me and I don't experience the issue again until next summer because I think this may be the last couple of days of really warm weather in the Charlotte area for the year. I never had any problems in weather below say, 85*. It's only the really hot days that it becomes a problem and so my fear is that it's not actually fixed, but that the weather may fix it, at least until next summer.

It's 99 right this second in north Alabama, so I'm afraid we're never getting cool weather again! If I can find some clear instructions on the second ground wire, I might just try it out and report back.

[arpad_m]

Forgive me if I'm stating the obvious, but have you guys with the parasitic drain tried pulling fuses one by one while measuring outgoing current flow at the terminals? Simple things like trunk lights are easy to identify at least roughly.

[TJay74]

Originally Posted by Showguns

I noticed the other day that when driving, the battery gauge reads 13.5 or 14. This is good. Then another day it read 10.5 or 11 the whole 15 mile drive and then wouldn't start the next try. Looks like it isn't charging (some of the time). The alternator and battery were said to tested fine.

That is normal, GM uses a smart charging system to charge the battery. This is partly done to reduce load on the engine and to increase fuel economy. The other is to vary charging to the battery so it doesnt develop a normal charge pattern.

They have used this system since at least around 2010.

[GM-ACE]

Finding parasitic draws is not fun or easy, but I have some tips:
1- Get one of these adapters (bottom pic), it is specifically made to give you the best test point for the amp meter you need to hook up.
2 - Get a quality volt/ohm meter with amp measuring capability
3 - This video is pretty good for basics, but I'll add my comments about some instructions next



4 - Do NOT hook up the meter directly without the switch, like he does in the video, the reason is simple: when you shut the key off, get out, close the door and lock it, all modules stay "awake" for some predetermined time, usually 5-10 minutes before the BCM (body control module) commands everyone to sleep. What Eric does in the video is power them all back on, at the same time, as soon as the meter completes the circuit.

Why is this bad?

Because (1) if enough draw occurs, there's a fuse in the amp meter that will blow and you're meter is dead in the water until you can replace that fuse, and it may not be easy to find quickly.

(2) What we want is uninterrupted power to the car as we insert the meter into the battery feed circuit. That switch was made for this (worth its weight in gold)


5- It's been my experience that not all fuse boxes are easy to access, especially if it's in the trunk or under the dash, so here's what we do: every door/trunk lid has a switch for an input to the BCM, we need to close those latches to mimic the doors being closed - so they can be left open.

GM has gone to making that switch integral to the latch, so get a pocket screw driver and use it to press the latch pawl in until it clicks closed (as if it was latched to the jamb) This allows us to keep all our doors open while fooling the BCM that they are closed. One note: I have experienced cars that had accident damage repairs that caused the latch switches to not close completely when the door was actually closed, but when closing it with the screw driver, it did close the switch (That one was REAL frustrating to find)


6- Remember any amp load over 10 amps WILL blow the meter fuse, so I advise you to not turn anything on or open a closed door while the circuit is going through the meter. (Can't tell you how many times someone walked up to car I was testing and opened a door)



7- SO, if the car's prepped (draw switch is installed on negative battery post, draw switch is closed, meter is connected to both ends and is on) start it, leave every switch the way it normally is, don't start turning things off (radio, a/c, etc..) we want to mimic day to day operation (so if the radio is at fault, turning it off will just make you chase your tail.)


8- Shut it off, open the driver door latch, close it and lock the car(mimicking leaving the car). Once the outside lights turn off (MAJOR draw, meter killer) We can NOW open the draw switch and start watching the draw go down as modules start going to sleep. After 5-10 minutes, an acceptable draw is 0-100 milliamps, anything higher and I might give it 5 more minutes.


9- NOW the real hard part. Depending on the level of draw, we can sort out what it might be. I ALWAYS check aftermarket electrical parts first, but here is a simple list:


100-500ma - module is awake
500ma - 1+ amp - a motor or light is on


My advice here is look around for lights, listen for buzzing, if the car is cold/cool - place your hand on components and see if they're warm or even hot.

Start pulling fuses, but here's the last bit:
When you pull a module fuse and nothing changes, then plug the fuse back in, the module wakes up- checks in with the BCM - which wakes the BCM up - then they agree they should be asleep, so you'll see the amps go up. Give them time to turn off before proceeding to next fuse.
It's time consuming and requires patience, but when you find that little f**ker, SOOOOO rewarding. HAPPY HUNTING!

[BlueinTN]

Just use a DC amp clamp no need for blowing fuses.



If the draws over 10 amps that will kill most batteries in less than 6 hours. 10 amps is alot.


My limited understanding of modern car charging systems is there is a temperature sensor under the battery tray that can limit charging if it thinks the battery is over heating.


Try to remember these new cars use 160,180 200 amp alternators and AGM batteries not like your old 1976 Chevy pickup with the 32 amp alt and an old lead acid battery.

[GM-ACE]

Originally Posted by BlueinTN

Just use a DC amp clamp no need for blowing fuses.



If the draws over 10 amps that will kill most batteries in less than 6 hours. 10 amps is alot.


My limited understanding of modern car charging systems is there is a temperature sensor under the battery tray that can limit charging if it thinks the battery is over heating.


Try to remember these new cars use 160,180 200 amp alternators and AGM batteries not like your old 1976 Chevy pickup with the 32 amp alt and an old lead acid battery.

Yeah, that won't work. Induction clamps can't can't accurately measure battery drains, it's not the same as measuring a charging system.

[16BlueSS]

16SS here and had the battery drain issue. Car spent 5 months at the dealer while I had a rental to drive. After they got a Tech from Detroit the problem was found to be a bad passenger seat motor and controller. Never a problem after the parts were replaced.

When there is a slow crank when hot issue, I have read here about bad starters, bad grounds.

Good Luck

CD

[BlueinTN]

Originally Posted by GM-ACE

Yeah, that won't work. Induction clamps can't can't accurately measure battery drains, it's not the same as measuring a charging system.

Not to be offensive I have been an Industrial maintenance tech for quite a while. Could you explain to me in terms simple how a battery drain is different than measuring a charging system?


Do you own an amp clamp of any type?

[GM-ACE]

Originally Posted by BlueinTN

Not to be offensive I have been an Industrial maintenance tech for quite a while. Could you explain to me in terms simple how a battery drain is different than measuring a charging system?


Do you own an amp clamp of any type?

Yes, I've had a Fluke equipment for years. What I described is GM's approved instructions for testing for drains. The part you're missing is the drains that are caused by modules, not motors, are very sensitive.

I have found seat motors, ABS motors and defrosters draining the battery very quickly, and for those an amp clamp probably would've been helpful to find them because of their high draw, but I never tried it because it wasn't an approved method.

BTW, I was a dealer technician for a long time, electrical and computer diagnostics were my specialties, so I thought I try to help on this subject.

[Showguns]

Twice, the dealership has had my car and can't figure this out.
What exactly should I tell them this time? I don't want to give them my car for an extended length of time again.

[GM-ACE]

Originally Posted by Showguns

Twice, the dealership has had my car and can't figure this out.
What exactly should I tell them this time? I don't want to give them my car for an extended length of time again.

I know it sucks when you have a dealer that half-asses repairs, especially when you're without the car for weeks, and bare in mind, some techs will do this ESPECIALLY on warranty repairs because it doesn't pay well. So, two things, hopefully (irony) the car is still doing it, give them as much detail as you can i.e., your daily routine, then bring up the number of service visits for the same issue and emphasize if they can't find it, you want GM to send a field engineer. They give you any issue, call GM's customer service (go over their heads). Not all dealers have great electrical techs, so I hope this helps.