[greg0ry]

Hi guys, I want to lose some of the wheel gap on my 2019 1LE. Is there any different/special procedure to get a 1LE lowered compared to just an SS? Do I need to give my mechanic any heads up with any special instructions just in case? Thank you

also.. which lowering springs would you guys recommend? I just want to lose most of the wheel gap but i don't want it cutting tooooo close!

[kropscamaro16]

nope and if you want the best ride and still want to track it check these out


https://wildhammermotorsports.com/16...ll-race-parts/

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by greg0ry

Hi guys, I want to lose some of the wheel gap on my 2019 1LE. Is there any different/special procedure to get a 1LE lowered compared to just an SS? Do I need to give my mechanic any heads up with any special instructions just in case? Thank you

also.. which lowering springs would you guys recommend? I just want to lose most of the wheel gap but i don't want it cutting tooooo close!

Just keep in mind you are lowering for aesthetics. You'll have a negative impact on the cars handling.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Just keep in mind you are lowering for aesthetics. You'll have a negative impact on the cars handling.

not if you are buying quality springs that have been tested and designed properly unlike 99% of the springs out there

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

not if you are buying quality springs that have been tested and designed properly unlike 99% of the springs out there

Enough with the YYZ sales pitch.

Anytime you change the height and rates of the springs on an active suspension you risk changing the way a car handles and reacts.

The algorithm of the MRC shocks are done for a certain ride height and spring rate.

The SS 1LE has minimal wheel gap from the factory, less then most others out there stock.

Leave it alone, the SS 1LE is dialed in from the factory.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Enough with the YYZ sales pitch.

Anytime you change the height and rates of the springs on an active suspension you risk changing the way a car handles and reacts.

The algorithm of the MRC shocks are done for a certain ride height and spring rate.

The SS 1LE has minimal wheel gap from the factory, less then most others out there stock.

Leave it alone, the SS 1LE is dialed in from the factory.

lol just dont know how yall cant talk shit on something you havent tried? everybody with a 1le thinks their car is some holy car that is untouchable and has alot you can upgrade to make it better... and you dont even track your car!!!


coby just replaced his whole 1le suspension with a dsc tractive kit? my buddy just replaced his dssv on his zl1 1le with a whole mcs coilover kit lol

[pbsinternet1le]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

lol just dont know how yall cant talk shit on something you havent tried? everybody with a 1le thinks their car is some holy car that is untouchable and has alot you can upgrade to make it better... and you dont even track your car!!!


coby just replaced his whole 1le suspension with a dsc tractive kit? my buddy just replaced his dssv on his zl1 1le with a whole mcs coilover kit lol

Is there any supporting data showing it works better than factory? Probably not.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

lol just dont know how yall cant talk shit on something you havent tried? everybody with a 1le thinks their car is some holy car that is untouchable and has alot you can upgrade to make it better... and you dont even track your car!!!


coby just replaced his whole 1le suspension with a dsc tractive kit? my buddy just replaced his dssv on his zl1 1le with a whole mcs coilover kit lol

You are talking about two totally different subjects here.

Gutting a suspension and building it back up from the ground floor is NOT the same thing as taking the stock MRC shocks/MRC tuning and dumping lowering springs on it.

[JamesNoBrakes]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

not if you are buying quality springs that have been tested and designed properly unlike 99% of the springs out there

That makes no sense. Quality springs have nothing to do with it.

If you are lowering the car, you are decreasing suspension travel. To decrease suspension travel, you have to increase spring rate. If you increase spring rate, your shock damping will be insufficient for the new increased spring rate. You might think it's ok-enough, but when push comes to shove, when pushing the car, it will handle worse. You can't change physics.

You can make cars handle better, lowering springs (increased spring rate) without adjusting the shock damping rates does the opposite. If you lower it AND increase the shock damping appropriately, you can increase handling, at the expense of some ground clearance and putting down the power on rougher surfaces. Nothing is free, K&N intakes don't give you "free power".

The reason why this confuses people is that coil-overs generally allow for lower ride-height and much better quality damping, so people then think lowering=better, but that's only part of the equation. Lowering springs is the cheap fix that doesn't address all the issues. It's like putting on an axle-back exhaust and then claiming that you are getting more power because it's louder. That axle-back may be part of the system IF you put on the headers and all the other parts, but by themselves, they are just loud and not giving you more power.

On my BMW, I was able to offset my lowered ride height with the conservative ACS springs with an upgrade to the active-damping system, which increased the damping rates. This made it "appropriate", but unless you can do something similar (not to my knowledge with our cars), you should upgrade the dampers at the same time you lower it...if you don't want the handling to take a hit. There is something to be said for spring rate, in the sense that sometimes lowering-spring "companies" try to sell one-flavor for all, like one set of springs for the I4, the V6 and the V8, all with different weight distributions and amounts. That's obviously even worse and to be safe, check the part numbers on the parts they spec for each of those variants, but still, you need to address the damping if you change the spring force.

[Thill444]

It's funny. When I had my GT350 (which also has magnetic ride) there was a guy there that actually tracks his car and he tried just about every lowering spring on the market. I believe he went through 4-5 different brands/sets of lowering springs. Guess what? In the end he went back to the OEM springs because they worked best for him on track.

If it's not broken don't mess with it.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

Just keep in mind you are lowering for aesthetics. You'll have a negative impact on the cars handling.

Agreed. But if you never drive it on a road course track you might not ever notice the handling impact.

Also the bottom of the front splitter already scrapes going into and out of businesses with angled entrances at stock ride height so it is not practical to lower it more IMO. Maybe look at switching from 30 profile tires to 35 profile tires (and narrower width) if you're not going to do any track day or HPDE driving. The fronts might rub the fender liners when turning at full lock and/or under high compression high G turns but it might be a more practical way to achieve your desired look than lowering the car. And it might affect the stabilitrak, speedo, and PTM modes due to changed tire diameter/circumference...you want to match the original # as close as possible.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=504377

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519028

[1le.matt]

Just replaced my springs with the AFE ones but I have the 2.0 1LE. Also, did the track alignment right after so mine feels on point. BUT no MRC, soooo my response is pointless. lol. Good thing though no adverse effects so far!

[ST1LE]

Give the Eibach kit a look, they make a 1LE specific spring, and I their drop is perfect.

As mentioned above, this really should be for a street driven 1LE as it will impact handling negatively. Nothing you will notice in daily driving though, so enjoy!

[NeverDie]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Enough with the YYZ sales pitch.

Hmm, I didn't see that brand mentioned in this thread until you brought it up. Interesting.

Anytime you change the height and rates of the springs on an active suspension you risk changing the way a car handles and reacts.

You are trying to change the way it handles. That is why you are lowering the car. Can you detail the negative vs positive impacts here for this particular suspension design?

The algorithm of the MRC shocks are done for a certain ride height and spring rate.

As this is a production vehicle from a mainstream manufacturer, they've built in a whole lot of margin of error into these shocks and the way they are programmed. DO you have the full suite of data that details thier operating conditions and the extremes? If so, please share!

Leave it alone, the SS 1LE is dialed in from the factory.

Is that why you added those solid bushings? You've mentioned that at LEAST as many times as those YYZ springs...

Look, we all have different goals. This is an enthusiast website. Instead of parroting the same car forum BS that's been going on for decades now (0mG u ChAnGeD gEoMeTrY uR nOt EnGiNeEr!) how about providing some kind of actual data and real facts to back up what you're saying or just don't bother with a response?