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Old 10-30-2020, 07:41 AM   #29
hawk02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
I don't have pics', but that blocker is pretty easy to get at, and probably worth the time if you don't drive in bad weather. It's probably there for their deep water-testing more than anything. I have no way to confirm that idea though. A pry tool will be your friend.
Yes, a good pry tool is a must. Here’s what I used. The push pin inside the blocker is the toughest one to get out just because of the limited space to get the tool in there.
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Old 10-30-2020, 10:57 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Juiced1 View Post
Making dyno pulls with the LT4 is difficult. The air intake temps can have more effect on the power output then the mods themselves. So you have to keep that in mind. If we make a nice cold pull and get max power it always looks impressive. After the blower is heat soaked it's going to cost you power. Sometimes LT4s can take hours to cool off.
Pretty much true of any boosted application, it's why repeated dyno runs are of limited value and the car will produce significantly more power consistently on a cold night on the highway - unending supply of high flow cool air

I'm sure it's partly the tires but I can't hook up even at 70 mph on a cold night, the car is an animal

I'd love to remove the blocker but could be a warranty flag if someone noticed it
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Old 10-30-2020, 11:22 AM   #31
radz28
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Originally Posted by hawk02 View Post
Yes, a good pry tool is a must. Here’s what I used. The push pin inside the blocker is the toughest one to get out just because of the limited space to get the tool in there.
Yeah. Even with a tool similar to that one, I busted that push pin. It didn't matter to me because I wasn't going to reuse it, but that's very useful information
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Old 10-30-2020, 11:42 AM   #32
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Meh, I researched the Rotofab intake a fair bit as I wanted to hear about the hype.

In the end, I decided the stock air box with green filter is all I need. If GM thought the open air intake would work - they would have done it (as done so in the Z/28).

Considering the amount of underhood heat generated by the SC, it's best to stock with the closed stock intake air box.

The Rotofab intake (like any other CAI) increases the whine...nothing more. Those HP Gains/Loses is subject to so many variables (like Ambient Temps, whether it was tuned or not etc.). It's a waste of money especially for someone like me that tracks their car.
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Old 10-30-2020, 04:04 PM   #33
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Thanks!
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:11 AM   #34
radz28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Checkmate1 View Post
Meh, I researched the Rotofab intake a fair bit as I wanted to hear about the hype.

In the end, I decided the stock air box with green filter is all I need. If GM thought the open air intake would work - they would have done it (as done so in the Z/28).

Considering the amount of underhood heat generated by the SC, it's best to stock with the closed stock intake air box.

The Rotofab intake (like any other CAI) increases the whine...nothing more. Those HP Gains/Loses is subject to so many variables (like Ambient Temps, whether it was tuned or not etc.). It's a waste of money especially for someone like me that tracks their car.
To each their own, but I have to guess that the sealed air box GM went with was more for emissions and noise abatement than the OEM box flowing enough. In "enough", I'm saying for GM's power-target (of 650), not the true potential of flow for the stock LT4. Some of the open element filter kits do seal the filter from engine bay heat fairly well, from what I've experienced. To support, at least the last part of my theory, I remember reading, back in 4th Gen days, that the reason the A4 shifter gate bezel didn't have a 1st-gear, when the car was equipped with 2.73s, was because that gate would allow that gear to be held during the drive-by noise evaluation the Feds' required cars, at the time to pass. Because the 2.73s allowed the engine to stay in a lower gear (e.g. higher RPMs), during the speed test it would scream past the microphone, and fail the db test (unlike the 3.23 cars, which shifted into a lower gear, and drive by in at a lower RPM, and pass). So, to get around that issue, GM didn't gate the console for 1st gear, like it did for the 3.23 cars. I know that there a noise tests manufacturers have to pass, and I think the OEM air cleaner design is a way to either tame the noise for the Feds, or because they though customers just didn't want a lot of blower/intake noise (which I couldn't understand why, considering how loud the OEM exhaust is, for a factory-engineered system).

Everything above, minus the anecdote about the 4th Gen, is just theory and speculation though... I've read and seen enough to validate my theories for myself, and that's good enough for me.
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Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs
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