[arpad_m]

Quality differences near the top of the curve never correlate with the price delta they command, at least not linearly. Is a Bugatti Chiron 60x better than my 2SS or 40x better than a fully loaded ZL1 1LE? Of course not.

[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by Invertalon

I got my car a few weeks ago and swapped out the summer run flats with Michelin A/S 3+ non run-flats. Cost me $1300 I believe out the door for all (4) for the SS with the tire replacement certificates and install at Discount Tire.

Because we have no jack/spare/etc... I bought a tire-plug kit and 'TPMS safe' fix a flat and threw both into my trunk. If neither of those will work in case of a flat, it will get towed.

In my 15 years or so of driving (and hundreds of thousands of miles), I never had a flat that stranded me or required a side of the road repair. Typically any screw/bolt/etc... Would be a slow leak that would allow me to get to a shop or pull the tire off at home and take it myself somewhere. Most tires blow catastrophically due to improper air pressure, overloading, tire age, excessive wear, etc... Rarely does it occur due to defect, for example (but does happen, of course).

So I personally have no fear running non RF tires without a spare. At worst, for critical failure I will get towed somewhere (covered under my insurance and with Michelin). Because I am unable to rotate my tires front-to-back, I expect I will replace my rear set of tires a bit more often then the fronts.

I've had fairly bad luck with tires the last couple of years. A screw in the side of a PSS on my last car and a hole in the side of my a/s 3+ a couple of months ago. Along with a few screws/nails in the main tread of tires. None of which have stranded me. I've been able to get home to swap wheels/tires and continue with what I needed to do.

The only thing runflats do is help you get home/to the shop, but you still have to replace it, and it's more expensive. It's pretty rare that a properly maintained tire catastrophically fails so that you can't get somewhere. Even then, most people have towing through their insurance, AAA, or whatever else.

[shogun37]

TIRES15 works on goodyear.com and justtires.com on the GY SP3 if USAA is not an option.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I think I paid around $1400 at the Chevy dealer for my Pilot Sports. They matched the best price I could find online (Discount Tire was lowest). Plus it always helps you buildup goodwill with them by spending cash there in case you need some warranty work out of warranty.

-Geoff

Put a new set of PS4S on my Camaro in September. Great performance tire.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by foshjowler

It's pretty rare that a properly maintained tire catastrophically fails so that you can't get somewhere.

I've had a few catastrophic tire failures, and I can't imagine run-flats getting me home if I had had them at the time.
Non-catastrophic leaks are typically due to a nail or screw. These are USUALLY slow leaks regardless of tire design. But if you are parked somewhere (like an airport) for a few days and the pressure really drops, a run-flat will get you home without a tow.
This web site has a nice cheery outlook on run-flats:
https://www.leasemorecarforlessmoney...un-flat-tires/

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by JSH

Put a new set of PS4S on my Camaro in September. Great performance tire.

Yea, I was amazed by how much the ride improved over the stock Goodyears. Mine are not runflats, but I keep a pump and a repair kit in the wheel well in the trunk in case I get stranded.

The thing that scared me the most about the stock Goodyears was the lack of wet traction, and everyone with Piots told me that they were better. But thanks to Covid and only putting 1500 miles on the car this year, the tires are still pretty much new! Hopefully they maintain their qualities as they wear.

-Geoff

[JSH]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

The thing that scared me the most about the stock Goodyears was the lack of wet traction

Yea, the stock GY3R is clearly a track tire and is so un-streetable and unsafe that Chevrolet and the dealers should tell buyers they will have to buy street tires immediately.

I have never owned a tire with street traction anywhere near as bad as the 3R.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by JSH

Yea, the stock GY3R is clearly a track tire...

I think Chevy liked the idea of marketing this car as "track ready" to a certain segment of buyers. Clearly that would never be a broad advertising pitch. I think that is also why we get semi-metallic brake pads, which have been overly hard on rotors in my experience. I am much happier having switched to ceramics.

[avalonandl]

I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's and LOVE them...

[shogun37]

Originally Posted by JSH

Yea, the stock GY3R is clearly a track tire and is so un-streetable and unsafe that Chevrolet and the dealers should tell buyers they will have to buy street tires immediately.

Ford did the same nonsense with the GT350 and PP2 Mustangs by putting Cup2 on them. WTF was the point? If you want the buyer to have track intentions, include with the car a coupon good for half off a set of Cup2/SC3R at your local dealer to be executed within 1 yr of purchase. And put sensible tires like the PS4S or one of the top 3 'ultra-high performance all-season' tires on the car.

I do love the GM/Ford stupidity though, I keep getting my hands on <100mi tire sets for $800-1000.

[foshjowler]

Originally Posted by shogun37

Ford did the same nonsense with the GT350 and PP2 Mustangs by putting Cup2 on them. WTF was the point? If you want the buyer to have track intentions, include with the car a coupon good for half off a set of Cup2/SC3R at your local dealer to be executed within 1 yr of purchase. And put sensible tires like the PS4S or one of the top 3 'ultra-high performance all-season' tires on the car.

I do love the GM/Ford stupidity though, I keep getting my hands on <100mi tire sets for $800-1000.

Lap times are a big part of marketing for performance cars, and tires are the easiest way to improve them. Most people will see the faster time and that's the end of the story, what tires the cars were on are never a consideration.

I would love to see these kinds of cars come with options for tires. That way the testers and people who actually track their car can get the track tires, and the rest get a good set of summer tires, or even all seasons. I remember the Focus RS and ST did something similar. With the RS you could get PSS or Cup 2, and the ST was all seasons or summer Goodyear tires.

[principia]

Originally Posted by enjikari

That's encouraging, to say the least!


I've been bouncing around articles related to UTQG ratings. Seems that, on average, every 100 on a rating grants about 30k miles. So the $1,200 tires I found with a 340 rating should get around 100k miles.


....I doubt tires will last 100k miles. And I mean that on the most well-maintained/inflated/balanced/rotated tires. I wouldn't bet on 100k, lol.


50k, maybe. That being said, if I COULD get these tires to last, say 3 years... well $1,200 every 3 years is MUCH more manageable that $1,200 a YEAR. After install and balance and all, $44/mo is do-able, and MUCH easier on my mind than $133/mo.


I'd like to know people's experiences/history with tires on their 6s, mainly from those who ONLY commute/general travel.

You absolutely should not expect anywhere near the expected tread life performance. 6th gen SS and SS 1LE have staggered figment. This means you can only rotate left to right, not the standard cross rotate. This will nearly cut the tread life performance in half.

My OEM Goodyear got me around 14k mikes. They’re okay, but I’ll be going with other options soon. You’ll need to decide among: summer only, all season, and winter tires depending on your usage.

I live in a warm and dry climate so I’m going between all season and summer only. Bear in mind summer tires typically have a shallower tread depth and use softer rubber compound mean8ng they tend to wear faster.

Summer only:
Best - Michelin pilot sport 4S - expect $1400 (for reference)
Bang for buck - Firestone firehawk Indy 500 - expect $900 ($800 on sale) Estimated 15-20k miles on staggered fitment

All season:
BFGoodrich G force comp 2 plus a/s - expect $950 - Estimated 20-25k miles on staggered fitment

I’m leaning toward Indy 500 currently.

Given your commute/ general driving, I recommend all season. Pick what suits your needs, balancing performance with cost and longevity. You might well experience better results depending on road quality and driving habits.

[avalonandl]

I got 23k on my BFG A/S Comp 2's.

I switched to a square set up with my Indy 500's and love them.

[MR's 2SS]

We just bought a 2ss vert for my wife to commute in. And for cruzing and all on the weekends.
You cant rotate tires because your fronts and rears are different sizes. But after looking at the cost of the runflats you might find you can buy nice rims and tires... non runflats... in the same size front and rear. So you can rotate.
I just bought winter tires and rims for 1700 deliverd. Not that the car will be driven in heavy snow but it is going to be transportation. If it snows heavy shes working from home or Ill come in and take her in the truck.
The snows should last several years and with the GY runflats running 8 months or so they should last at least 2 years maybe a bit more.
Im getting her a AAA membership and either a slime repair kit or something similar. And the next set of tires will not be runflats.
Even if you get a flat with the runflats you will likely be required to buy a new tire. Which means 2 new tires because your not going to run a brand new tire on one side and a 50% tire on the other.
By the time I wear out the GYs I will decide if Im putting 4 rims and tires of the same size on and rotating.
Your in the sunbelt. Im in the snow belt. What I was not prepared for was needing to buy the winter tires right away. We have 3 months left on a QX50 and I was just going to park the SS unless it was sunny and not salty.
I was surprised to find out you cant even leave the car outside in the sub freezing temps and drive off because the rubber could be damaged. And they are supposedly like driving on steel wheels below 40. Not exactly true as I have been driving them in the 30s and they were fine.
But Im too paranoid to leave it like that so I bought the snows right away.
Im wondering how you made out since this thread is 3 months old.