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Old 12-23-2017, 09:53 AM   #29
TonyNo

 
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That's a really interesting design. Likely short-lived due to heat as Nick states, but still interesting.

My solution (not implemented yet; just tested) was to fake the timing so that the hyperflash could not get to the bulb. You would still get errors on the DIC, though.

The biggest problem for a PnP solution is that the connectors used are customized by GM, so you can't get them at a reasonable price. IIRC, list is ~$90 for a front, turn signal plug/pigtail.
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Old 03-04-2018, 03:44 AM   #30
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Bump. Just wanted to know if somebody found a plug and play solution. Guys since Ď16 we have this problem. please, we are flying to Mars and canít get a LED solution for the stupid blinker.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:32 PM   #31
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Front side turn lights LED conversion: possible with no resistors?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soleil View Post
Bump. Just wanted to know if somebody found a plug and play solution. Guys since Ď16 we have this problem. please, we are flying to Mars and canít get a LED solution for the stupid blinker.

Depends on what you mean by Plug-N-Play. If you mean plugging in a LED bulb directly into the GM harness and having it work without hyper blinking and without a relay, I donít think this exists due to the cost of those GM socket connectors.

However, if you mean plug and play meaning no modification to factory wiring, this is the route I took.

Itís as simple as buying some 7443 bulbs that you like, I chose these:

Botepon 2Pcs 7443 T20 7440 7441 7444 992 Amber Yellow Led Bulb 900 Lumens Extremly Bright 5630 Chipsets 33-SMD for Turn Signal Lights, Corner Lights, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074PYSJ78..._B2AKz96Eg69sd

And buying a set of resistors with 7443 connector ends, such as these:

TOMALL 7443 T20 50W 8ohm LED Resistors Decoder Anti-Flicker for Brake/Tail Light Bulbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0776VSK85..._8CfNAbCN2KDMV

From your GM blinker signal socket, you plug the resistor in and the other end connects to the bulb. Twist the bulb in place, tuck away the resistor and youíre done.

Resistors are in-line with the bulb, you have LED turn signals and no hyper blinking.

Completely reversible and no changes to the factory wiring.

I apologize for not sharing this earlier. I thought it had already been done.
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Old 03-04-2018, 03:08 PM   #32
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That sounds like I even could do it. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 05-29-2018, 01:50 PM   #33
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Latest update:

Thanks to user Nookz, the solution is finally here (no resistors needed!):

SUGERYY Amber Yellow 7440 7441 2590 Lumens 3030 Chipset LED Bulbs for blinker light
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have received them and I have installed them and.. WOW!.. what a difference it makes!! I used four bulbs: two at the front and the other two at the rear (my car has European specs). THEY ARE SIMPLY PERFECT!!

Thanks again for sharing, Nookz!!

See you!,
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Last edited by Eos; 08-09-2018 at 05:21 AM. Reason: Added Amazon item description
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:08 PM   #34
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I picked up these to replace my last pair:

LASFIT 7440 W21W WY21W LED Turn Signal Light Blinker Bulbs, Build-in CANBUS Anti Hyper Flash, No Load Resistor Need, Plug & Play, 24W 2400LM Extremely Bright Amber Yellow-1 Yr Warranty (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CMSD8CS..._PR1ABb75CABB4

These have the heat sink, and presumably, the resistor built into the tip as opposed to the base. This design would lessen the impact to the wiring, socket and headlamp housing if it were to overheat. Vastly superior design IMO.

Also made in the US...allegedly
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Old 08-08-2018, 04:23 PM   #35
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Bad link. Maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/LASFIT-Resist.../dp/B07CMSD8CS
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Old 08-08-2018, 05:01 PM   #36
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"canbus" led's just have the load resistor built in. Unless you're reprogramming the bcm, you'll be using a load resistor on each blinker to avoid hyperflash. Your goal should be to use the highest resistance you can get away with to lessen the amount of heat produced. This isn't a "problem" with led bulbs. Hyperflash is programmed in your BCM and there's literally no reason for it to occur other than that's how chevy wanted to program their BCM to behave. It would be trivial for them to allow us to re-baseline the BCM to a different current draw but that's not how GM rolls.

if a bit of wiring isn't your thing, just go with the canbus bulbs. Worst case is you have a bulb fail at some point. If you're ok with simple wiring, then putting the load resistor away from the bulb is ideal. You can pick your resistance to fit your application and keep the waste heat away from the led and get away with smaller bulbs or perhaps bulbs with more led's or a different layout of led's than what you are stuck with on can-bus bulbs.

Either way, it should be install and never have to touch it again for well into 10 years. If your bulbs are failing and you're finding yourself getting different ones, something is wrong. Either you're buying crap components or you're buying stuff you shouldn't be.
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