[Rippin1LE]

Hello everyone this is my first posting on the forum and it very much out of desperation, last weekend I got my camaro back together after installing Texas speeds EL C7 (231intake 240exhaust 32%fuel lobe) camshaft, PRC ported cylinder heads, 95mm LT5 throttle body and MSD atomic Air Force intake manifold, previously installed and tuned for are kooks long tubes with cat less connection pipes and Roto Fab cold air intake. I went to start it up for the first time and after about 10 seconds of turning over it it fired to life for about 30 seconds and then puttered out after my dash had a check engine light and stabiliatrak light turn on. The codes that set were P228c (low fuel pressure) and both bank o2 sensor codes. Now the car will just turn over and backfire out of the exhaust and intake but will not start again. In my attempts to solve the problem I checked all grounds and made sure all my connections were plugged in correctly. Took the intake manifold off and made sure all my fuel line pipes were tightened properly and changed the battery because it came up as bad on my charger (and the auto zone tester), the car had been sitting for about 2 months while I was working on it so I guess it shorted internally. I know the obvious thing that people will assume is wrong is the the timing is off but I was very carefull with that part of the install and have pictures of the timing marks lined up. One thought that I had is the lash cap I put on the fuel pump lifter was too large but I checked it and it doesn’t bottom out and there is adequate pre load. Any help would be extremely appreciated, this has me not sleeping at night. Thank you for reading!

[WEAPON-X]

Originally Posted by Rippin1LE

Hello everyone this is my first posting on the forum and it very much out of desperation, last weekend I got my camaro back together after installing Texas speeds EL C7 (231intake 240exhaust 32%fuel lobe) camshaft, PRC ported cylinder heads, 95mm LT5 throttle body and MSD atomic Air Force intake manifold, previously installed and tuned for are kooks long tubes with cat less connection pipes and Roto Fab cold air intake. I went to start it up for the first time and after about 10 seconds of turning over it it fired to life for about 30 seconds and then puttered out after my dash had a check engine light and stabiliatrak light turn on. The codes that set were P228c (low fuel pressure) and both bank o2 sensor codes. Now the car will just turn over and backfire out of the exhaust and intake but will not start again.

In my attempts to solve the problem I checked all grounds and made sure all my connections were plugged in correctly. Took the intake manifold off and made sure all my fuel line pipes were tightened properly and changed the battery because it came up as bad on my charger (and the auto zone tester), the car had been sitting for about 2 months while I was working on it so I guess it shorted internally. I know the obvious thing that people will assume is wrong is the the timing is off but I was very carefull with that part of the install and have pictures of the timing marks lined up.

One thought that I had is the lash cap I put on the fuel pump lifter was too large but I checked it and it doesn’t bottom out and there is adequate pre load. Any help would be extremely appreciated, this has me not sleeping at night. Thank you for reading!

What HPFP?
What are you doing to determine the preload? Because cam kits come with lashcaps and every car is different. We made a special gauge to check preload and you need to determine this including the gasket etc.

These HPFP are sensitive to the preload and you need to inspect the pump because if you had too much preload, you might have broken the bolts on the pump or the bolts that hold the pump to the valley cover. This could likely be the reason for your starting issue because otherwise, these cars will start even if the preload is off and operate in a low flow mode so a car is driveable and you're not stranded.

Do you have HP Tuners? Send me a log if you can get it running.

[Rippin1LE]

Originally Posted by WEAPON-X

What HPFP?
What are you doing to determine the preload? Because cam kits come with lashcaps and every car is different. We made a special gauge to check preload and you need to determine this including the gasket etc.

These HPFP are sensitive to the preload and you need to inspect the pump because if you had too much preload, you might have broken the bolts on the pump or the bolts that hold the pump to the valley cover. This could likely be the reason for your starting issue because otherwise, these cars will start even if the preload is off and operate in a low flow mode so a car is driveable and you're not stranded.

Do you have HP Tuners? Send me a log if you can get it running.

Thanks for the response Weapon-X, it’s a LT1 fuel pump. I put the lobe on the camshaft to the flat part where the lifter is at the lowest point then put the HPFP in and it was resting about 6mm off the valley cover. Then put the cam lobe to the highest point and the HPFP bottomed when bolted down without the gasket so with the gasket I figured it would be fine. Let me know if that sounds incorrect, Texas speed also supplied me with this lash cap and said it was correct. One reason I thought the HPFP was the culprit is the car started and died with the low pressure code so maybe I broke it because I did all those measurements after I already started the car.

[Kneelanddc]

Any updates on what happened