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Old 11-06-2017, 08:50 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allenrayn View Post
Had the same problem. Took it in and the gm dealer replaced the nuts with the new ones. 2 weeks later, the clunking returned. Going to put on nordlock washers myself on all 4 nuts. This is absolutely crazy!

Question: I can't get my torque wrench and socket in the tight space for the lower nuts. I feel like i need a pass through torque wrench. Or a joint piece. How did you guys do it? Thanks!

These are the new nuts. But obviously they did not work.

The 3rd picture (sorry it is flipped 90 degrees) is the old factory nut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt1z350 View Post
What’s weird is since my first tightening at home it’s stayed tight. No locktight no special nuts. Hit the tops with my 3/8 Milwaukee 3/8 gun and bottom two with a wrench. I have a zl1 drive the crap out of it and really bad roads in Jax so always beating the crap out of car. When I put wheels back on it I did torque all them to 120 flbs and haven’t had to touch in 1500 miles where see some say loose again with New nuts and or dealership Work. I was getting the bmr but for now if this stays tight will just let it be. Maybe a lot of people just don’t get them tight enough is all I can come up with since I didn’t even bother with locktight since had plans on changing when came loose again and just haven’t.
Here is the TSB for loose endlink nuts from GM: https://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb...dPdf?id=199084

It needs a washer, maybe a simple lock washer would work, but a Nordloc and LocTite are the known permanent fix.

Last edited by JusticePete; 11-06-2017 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 11-06-2017, 11:01 AM   #142
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I went the loctite route, but I did buy some nord-locks -- ended up not using them because the outside diameter was a couple mm less than the bolt, and I was not comfortable with that. If you have one of the nuts handy, measure before ordering expensive nord-locks...
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Old 11-07-2017, 10:20 AM   #143
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Ditto. Thank you for posting this, I was able to suggest the sway bar links as a cause at my dealer, and they were able to take care of it while I waited this morning.
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:05 PM   #144
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Anybody can tell me the difference between red and blue loctite ?
What’s the best to use?
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Old 11-14-2017, 03:59 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by Biscuit.fr View Post
Anybody can tell me the difference between red and blue loctite ?
What’s the best to use?
Red = Don't ever bother trying to get this nut/bolt off without a torch

Blue = I might want to take this off some day
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Old 11-14-2017, 05:00 PM   #146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SS View Post
Red = Don't ever bother trying to get this nut/bolt off without a torch

Blue = I might want to take this off some day
Tx
Got it now with the strength 243 and 263...
What about the nordlock washers?
M12 std nordlock washer for the 12mm
Or ss washer which seems to have more cranks?

Last edited by Biscuit.fr; 11-14-2017 at 05:51 PM.
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Old 11-17-2017, 06:52 AM   #147
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Brought the car in, had them add the nordlock washers. They put on the new bolts while there and supposedly added loctite.

It's still making a clunking sound not even two days later. Although now it just sounds different and it's when I hit the breaks... Like something is clunking forward when I try to stop. More of a metallic pinging sound now. I'm guessing it's something different now...

I'm out of ideas. This is maddening.
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:01 AM   #148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Childs Play View Post
Brought the car in, had them add the nordlock washers. They put on the new bolts while there.

It's still making a clunking sound. Although not it just sounds different and it's when I hit the breaks... Like something is clunking forward when I try to stop. More of a metallic pinging sound now. I'm guessing it's something different now...

I'm out of ideas. This is maddening.
Go back and ave them tighten the strut attention/ radius arm bolts
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Old 11-17-2017, 07:12 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by JusticePete View Post
Go back and ave them tighten the strut attention/ radius arm bolts
Will do. I hate not knowing enough about suspension to be able to dig in and find the issues myself. I also hate relying on dealerships.

I appreciate the info. I'll bring it back by to have them take a look at that.
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Old 11-17-2017, 09:44 AM   #150
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Originally Posted by Lt1z350 View Post
My lower control arms were loose so check them and check all wheels for the correct torque. I did mine to 120 foot lbs as I have a torque stick from dealer still that works well. Seems anything aluminum incthe supsension will stretch some and loosen a little. My Tahoe did same thing back in 2007. Once you get some miles and go through it then non issue. If can’t then make dealership check everything just say you feel the car isn’t safe and god help them if you get it back and something comes loose after they have checked the car over. They will then check it all. I worked for caddy for years and when heard that they normally jumped as it spelled lawsuit after that. Sometimes you have to push the delalership to do enough. We are finding out the factory isn’t catching half the stuff they should. That’s what you get when don’t want to pay good wages for good mechanics.
Yea I have a beam style torque wrench. I went through when I changed out the wheels and torqued them to 140 ft lb. I'm wondering if I missed torquing one fully at some point now...

I'm still going to drag it back to the dealership and make a list of things I'd like them to check. AFTER I go and re-torque all the bolts to see if maybe that's the problem.
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Old 11-17-2017, 06:30 PM   #151
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Well, ‘18 1SS 1LE with 1700 miles and bang, clunk, clunk, clunk. Drove right to the dealer and they are replacing the endlinks, but didn’t have them in stock. Have to wait until Monday and am driving a loaner.
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Old 11-18-2017, 04:24 PM   #152
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Had mine tightened in August, just had to have them tightened again today.

Sounded at first like a tree limb was stuck and hanging from the bottom at first and hitting the ground every once in a while. Rode around the dealership with the manager and he thought it may be end links. Got to a bumpy area and it was constantly rattling and he immediately said, oh yeah let me get it looked at right now.
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Old 11-18-2017, 10:39 PM   #153
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This is ridiculous. How many decades has Chevy been building cars? Jeez. I just received the new version of the nuts. They're not only rushed washers built in, but also lock nuts. Those plus loctite should never come lose again. If they do, there's some weird stuff going on w/ the the geometry, vibrations, or something.
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Old 11-19-2017, 08:02 AM   #154
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Thanks for this post. Mine started in at 4500 miles. Let them know info from here and was out of dealer in about an hour
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