[Vtor_ZL1]

'18 ZLE - Swaybar end links bolts are tight AF. Car was built w newer flange bolt / washer assemblies.


Up on ramps, links themselves felt tight, but does not means they are "tight" as bar may be imperfect and applied torque masking any slop. Did not loose any bolts to verify. Maybe I will check that tomorrow before scheduling service visit.



Slow speed approach between street / driveway, mostly in reverse.



Very pronounced clunk.

[nicktechla]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

'18 ZLE - Swaybar end links bolts are tight AF. Car was built w newer flange bolt / washer assemblies.


Up on ramps, links themselves felt tight, but does not means they are "tight" as bar may be imperfect and applied torque masking any slop. Did not loose any bolts to verify. Maybe I will check that tomorrow before scheduling service visit.



Slow speed approach between street / driveway, mostly in reverse.



Very pronounced clunk.

mine felt tight by hand and looked ok, but it was not tight when I put the wrench on it. The dealer even looked at it twice and missed it, I had to take care of it myself.

[Vtor_ZL1]

I put foot long wrench on them, applied solid 50-60 lbs force, no mvement. On top bolt, it put 18mm socket and extension and put in 45-50 lbs on foot n half breaker bar -they were TIGHT.


By comparison, the tie rod ends were "loose". I was able to easily dial in another 15-30 degrees.


May check it again tomorrow, but just in case, apt for thursday AM. referenced TSB in service request.

[ninetres]

2017 ZL1 purchased 7/2017. 4500miles. After 2nd track day I’m now getting some clanking/clunking noises over bumps in road. Top sway end links seem to have some play and make a similar noise when jiggled when car is in the air at full droop, wheels removed. I assume it’s them. I’ll get a wrench on all suspension bolts this week. Just figured I’d check in haha.

[nicktechla]

Originally Posted by ninetres

2017 ZL1 purchased 7/2017. 4500miles. After 2nd track day I’m now getting some clanking/clunking noises over bumps in road. Top sway end links seem to have some play and make a similar noise when jiggled when car is in the air at full droop, wheels removed. I assume it’s them. I’ll get a wrench on all suspension bolts this week. Just figured I’d check in haha.

throw them in the trash and order the BMR links. I did that, no issues again so far with a few track days. They are wayyyy better quality with grease fittings and stuff. Plus adjustable

[Gunkk]

Mine were somewhat bound up at the rubber at full droop, making them harder to check and tighten. If you can get a jack under the LCA it might help a bit.

[ninetres]

Originally Posted by nicktechla

throw them in the trash and order the BMR links. I did that, no issues again so far with a few track days. They are wayyyy better quality with grease fittings and stuff. Plus adjustable

Meh. I’d prefer to keep the car stock. I don’t mind occasionally tightening them. If the begin to loosen frequently I’ll throw some nordlock washers on.

Originally Posted by Gunkk

Mine were somewhat bound up at the rubber at full droop, making them harder to check and tighten. If you can get a jack under the LCA it might help a bit.

Good tip. I can easily do that if they seem bound at all.

[ZeroZeta]

Picked up my Fireball 1ss a few weeks ago and with 78 miles on the clock experienced the loud clunk on the driver side when going through a parking lot.


Luckily I learned from my mistakes and consult the forums first. So a big thanks to all members who contributed to this thread.


My Nordlocks are on order and I will not be wasting my time going back and forth with my dealership.


Will keep everyone posted if something else appears to be amiss as well.

[tadre1]

I am pretty sure they didn't assemble the suspension with a load on it at the factory. So what is the benefit of torquing the end link bolts with a load vs full droop?

[Vtor_ZL1]

Clunk on my ZLE = bad strut. Dealer confirmed, new part on order.

[Vtor_ZL1]

Driver front strut replaced (84384331 - Retail $2100 !!) under warranty. Front end clunk is GONE!


My car has newer spec end link and lock style washers from factory.

[tadre1]

Well ... just got finished with drivers side sway bar end link swap with BMR ones and to my dismay the clunk is still there. What a pain in the rear to swap, would definitely be easier to use a lift. I used a jack stand. You will need to jack the strut to get the load off the end links, just gently raise it from under the front brake rotor which will compress the strut and take the load off the links and they will come out easier.. Any whooo's, I guess the next step is to replace the mcr strut??? ... wow that really sucks. Nothing was loose by the way. All the bolts were tight ... I swapped out cause I paid for them and was curious. Now I have to do the other side ... I used the bolts supplied by BMR and 12m nord lock washers. No loctite. I followed the same route as some of the others here on this forum and it also failed for me. The end links are not the culprit ... at least for me. Interesting note ... the link I took off part number: 23240971 which is the part number to the right end link not the left. Left link part number: 23240970. Are they interchangeable? If so ... then ok. I think I am going to change over to Mevotech sway bar end links. They are like the stock ones but have grease fittings and are non adjustable. I don't like the adjustable end links. I don't need them.

[LAPPEDbyZL1]

2018 ZLE. Clunking confirmed from Bad Front struts. Dealer replaced the front struts and the issue is gone. Curious if this is now going to be a common problem for ZLE owners

[Vtor_ZL1]

Had one replaced, i am fairly sure otherwise is starting the same sounds.


Clunk from the back on 1-2 shift sounds alot like my old car.. but it had 130,000 miles on it!!