07-13-2022, 05:37 PM | #1 |
Petro-sexual
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"High Level" Review of aFe Stab. Bars & ?Issues?
This will be another, typically, long review AND PSA (I'm pretty sure, anyways...).
BACKGROUND: I'm no track-guy, but am more of a strip-guy. I didn't like the idea of diminishing what GM did with the car, though, so I was attempting to try to restore what I "lost" (though there isn't a way to really calculate what I've "lost" through other suspension mods'. REVIEW: I bought an Fe Power stabilizer bar (bar) because I switched to BMR rod ends (for everything they have for the rear of our cars, including the chassis braces for the front-of-the-rear subframe). I had another "issue" I was trying to fight, which turned-out to be unrelated to the suspension. It was my understanding (and I follow the logic after it was explained) that I lost some spring rate doing that, so, initially - I was just looking to make-up for it as reasonably as I could. I didn't think I lost too much, so I didn't want to go with a crazy bar-rate. aFe seemed to fit that bill, as their rates are: 245, 280, 310 lb/in (~25, ~40, ~55% over FE4 going off rough averages of what's been posted here) according to their recent measurements [and I liked the orange powder coat, lol]. Then - started thinking I should just do the front, for balance, and do a matched set and continued with aFe, just because of my OCD. So - I arrived at a matched set of bars from aFe. I can only comment on fit and finish, and not so much performance, at this point. I don't regret the purchases. I'm plenty pleased so far. ?ISSUES?: As the later pics. will show, is the PSA-part. I did the BMR-stuff in October, and really didn't drive the car much because of the cold and all that. Then - I got the rear bar in March, and finally the front a month later. I don't drive the car much but it wasn't until the front bar swap that I started noticing a creaking or groaning from the rear. I did some research and was growing worried that I had the dreaded missing-spot-weld-problem. Before going crazy, I started following some other, easier, suggestions with lubing the parking brake cables/retainers and then using special lube on the all the rod ends. So - just this morning, I went and replaced the front bolts for the rear cradle because I was never confident I torqued them correctly, and I read a thread where someone also use the BMR cradle front chassis braces, and got something of a similar sound that I was getting. This time, instead of keeping the rear of the car on jack stands, like I had when I installed the BMR-stuff (and the ZLE cradle bushings, done at the same time), and having the rear suspension unloaded, I thought I would replace the front cradle bolts and retorque all that with the chassis loaded, so I settled the car on ramps, with the chassis loaded... As I was finishing up, and re-lubing the rod ends, I just happened to look-up at the bar end links (because I was considering replacing them because of the noises). I, then, noticed them bending around a part of the knuckle casting. WTF? Then - after removing the wheels, I can see where the aluminum had been ground-off where bar links were rubbing (on both sides), and both links got bent, from being in the way. So - I moved the links from the loosest position to the middle and will see how that works for now. I'll see what happens while I wait for OEM-replacement links and see if I want to ground those spots later. It seems like it would be harmless, but I'm still chewing on that. So - the PSA is if you have aFe, or any other aftermarket bars on the rear, to check that clearance out. I don't know how it could have been the way I installed them, or what, but it is what it is. Perhaps I could ground the knuckles down in those spots (because there are no fasteners on the other side of the knuckle, nor do I think these have any structural value), but - for now - I'm just going to use the middle position and see how it feels and if clearance is good. So there it is. I really like the bars though. I like the brackets, which seem like overkill. They fit great otherwise. I haven't seen anyone else with aFe bars complain, so maybe I did something wrong, somehow. I think the problem I've had with the bars could extend to anyone else with aftermarket bars, though. So - just keep an eye out. Also - below are the spring rates for, both, FRONT & REAR bars:
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
07-13-2022, 06:38 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Petersham MA
Posts: 4,781
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Nice write up! I’m not a big track guy (like you lol) but have to admit those bar mounts look super beefy.
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2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors, LPE BB HPFP, 15” conversion 1059 WHP/944 WTQ, 9.48@150
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07-13-2022, 06:54 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2016 1ss camaro Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: 909
Posts: 9,824
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i have the same ones on my car i was actually the test car and only problem i had was about a year after having them i heard a clunk in my front end and found out one my oem studs to mount it broke and they actually took the car back and fixed it for free !
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16 1SS NIGHTFALL GRAY METALLIC WITH NPP #BECAUSERACECAR #SAVETHEMANUALS
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07-14-2022, 08:07 AM | #4 | ||
Petro-sexual
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Quote:
Even in the middle position, though, I think I'll still have to grind. It feels like the radius of the sway bar will continue to swing the links toward those protuberances on the knuckles, so when I get my replacements, that's when I'll see about doing that. I hate to, but I don't see any bolts or reasons why grinding will be an issue Quote:
Regardless - I think, after I double-check, I'll just resolve to grinding a bit. I think it will be okay to knock-off just enough from each side. I might try flipping the links to the inside of the bar and see if there's enough length in the fastener to do that. I don't think it will work, but I'll soon see. It's just a little disappointing.
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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07-14-2022, 10:52 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Petersham MA
Posts: 4,781
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Chuck, out of curiosity did you reach out to AFE? Wonder if they've seen it before.
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2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors, LPE BB HPFP, 15” conversion 1059 WHP/944 WTQ, 9.48@150
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07-14-2022, 01:48 PM | #6 | |
Petro-sexual
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Quote:
I'll probably reach out to them later, in case it's helpful to them. It's difficult to tell from my pics', but it could be their bar is slightly longer, but that could just be the way I took it. I think I've talked myself into not being that worried about the grinding. From examining my pics', and from parts pictures on-line, I think I'll be okay. What I will do is make sure there's not a fastener on the other side of the protuberances, and if not - just knock them down near flat. I don't have a problem with that, and have the grinder and correct cutter. It'll take me less time to do that and I'll get further with correcting this earlier. Or I'm totally wrong. LOL.
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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07-14-2022, 04:58 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 2017 Camaro 2SS A8 Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Petersham MA
Posts: 4,781
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Quote:
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2017 Chevy Camaro 2SS A8 Whipple 3.0, Mast Black Label heads, Fore triple in-tank pumps, 112mm TB, LPE +52% injectors, LPE BB HPFP, 15” conversion 1059 WHP/944 WTQ, 9.48@150
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07-14-2022, 05:27 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2016 1ss camaro Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: 909
Posts: 9,824
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they only make 1 set of swaybars for the 6th gen so not sure it could be the wrong ones
https://afepower.com/afe-control-sway-bar-set if you need any info/help for somebody at afe power let me know i can ask
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16 1SS NIGHTFALL GRAY METALLIC WITH NPP #BECAUSERACECAR #SAVETHEMANUALS
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07-18-2022, 08:43 AM | #9 | ||
Petro-sexual
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Quote:
Quote:
BUT - I grinded the Thursday evening, because I can't help my OCD. It went pretty smooth, but was messy, as you'd think it would be. My cheap'o grinder and aluminum grinding bits made quick work of the protuberances, and while it's certainly no machinist's/ fabricator's work, it'll get the job done. I compressed each side of the suspension such that the links' angles would be the greatest to the sway bar radius, so, as far as I could make out, I wasn't grinding more than I needed to, and was grinding where I needed to for the clearance I hoped was enough. I wouldn't have had to grind as much if I mounted the links to the middle or stiffest settings, but I knew my OCD wouldn't allow me to not create the clearance needed for the softest setting, so that's what I grinded for. Again - there aren't fasteners or anything link that these seem to coincide with, or anything like that, so I'm suspecting they're just part of the casting process. I have no training or expertise to assure me this isn't a good idea, but am hoping some common sense is enough. I don't know I'd recommend anyone else do this, but wanted to offer my experience. I feel like online pictures I've seen (places like Summit's catalog, and other more generic Google searches) so slightly differing designs among the many Camaro models for these knuckles. That might explain why krops' didn't have to grind, and why I haven't noticed any other issues. Maybe I'm the only ZL1's that's used these bars. I don't know. I can't think of a reason why what I've done to the car's caused this issue, but here I am. Hopefully this might be helpful to someone else, because I know I was starting to freak-out about missing welds and the multitudes of others' experiences. Cheers
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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08-17-2022, 05:00 AM | #10 |
Drives: 2024 Riverside Blue 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1,211
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So the moral of the story, don't buy these bars for your car cause they don't fit and are poorly engineered.
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08-23-2022, 08:31 AM | #11 |
Petro-sexual
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If that's your take away.
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'20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs |
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