09-21-2019, 01:05 PM | #1 |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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Brake pad rub
For those with track pads, how much do the pads rub unloaded?
On my current set, they appear to be rubbing quite a bit more than previous sets. Enough friction to prevent a full turn if I spin the wheel in the air, and I can hear the pads constantly driving down the street. (DTC 70/60's w/ 9 sessions)
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09-21-2019, 01:33 PM | #2 |
Drives: ISO ss 1le Join Date: May 2018
Location: FL
Posts: 764
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That’s always been pretty normal for track pads. I can hear mine squeaking a little bit at low speed and mine stop too on the lift. The uneven pad wear from having 4/6 piston brakes are to thank for that.
I was taught to flip the pads from side to side to encourage better wear. It seems to help, when i remember to do it. |
09-21-2019, 02:47 PM | #3 |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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Makes sense, I just don't remember it being this bad the last time I had track pads.
I can't drive with the windows down, too damn annoying. It's that bad.
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09-21-2019, 06:25 PM | #4 |
Drives: 1LEs Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW - Texas
Posts: 1,319
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Is the total thickness a bit more than stock, and are you running Ti shims?
Can't remember what brand, but, a year or so ago, I helped a friend change his pads. He was using Ti shims (a bit over 0.8mm thick), and the new aftermaket track pads (fronts) would not go in with the shims even making sure the pistons were fully compressed. The rears barely went in with the shims, but, you could basically not turn the brakes by hand. So, we pulled the shims out of the rears. After burnishing and one track day, he put the shims in both the front and rear. If memory is correct, the pads were nearly 17mm total thickness (friction material & backing plate). |
09-21-2019, 06:43 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2016 2SS BLK A8 Vert Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: MA
Posts: 1,029
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Hadn't noticed the drag noise when driving, predominantly garage area/pits, but I definitely have the friction upon spinning it unloaded too. Also just went DCT 70's all around verses 70/60 I've been running. DCT 70's now on rear for one event anyway, and I think I like the "balanced" bias better (at least for the vert)
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NPP, MRC, Tinted side & rear reflectors, OEM ZL1 Rockers / 3rd Brake / Darken tail lights, OEM Blk rear splash guards, Satin hood wrap, Fuse pull, Sound tube delete, Cat delete, Ported 95 TB, Ported MSD IM, Dry RotoFab, ARH 1 7/8 headers, E85, "Performance Dyno" Tune, BMR "pieces", "Track" alignment, Hawk DCT-70/70's w/SRF, Goodridge lines, Ti shims, Red powdered calipers, 18" APEX SM-10's w/ Pirelli DH's, FE4 Vert swaybars, Brake cooling ducts, ATI 10% UD, Vorshlag camber plates, OEM 1LE Splitter w/APR Ext., Velossa BIG MOUTH Ram Air, CF QA1, ZLE brakes(F)
Last edited by driven2exceSS; 09-22-2019 at 04:00 PM. |
09-22-2019, 01:50 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2020 SS 1LE (previous: 2017 SS 1LE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada, eh!
Posts: 5,091
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Sean, I'd check the health of calipers. It is possible that the pistons are slightly binding and hence not releasing fully. I believe this is what happened to Nicky Bobby with Dtc70s. He ended up rebuilding the calipers (if i remember it correctly).
The other obvious culprit would be an overall increase in pad thickness. Either way when they rub cooling is affected. I had it happen with AP racing kit and double thickness pads on my Vette. We did caliper rebuilds regularly. As a general "rant", i really dont know what folks are hoping to accomplish sticking *ultra high* torque pads on a street car, with street designed brake systems (incl cooling), perhaps even on street tires (or their amateur track equivalents). Other than premature wear of components. Sure, some top shelf drivers on full slicks may gain a few tenths here and there (for a higher price of consumables, as the extra heat is simply impossible to be avoided). But for a vast majority it will increase difficulty of effective trail braking - an aspect which is so crucial to fast laps. Plus fry stuff up, incl tires. Rant over |
09-22-2019, 07:39 PM | #7 | |
Drives: 1LE Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: East Coast
Posts: 1,473
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Quote:
I smoked my driver front caliper. Rebuild yours, parts available from RB. Swear pedal feels better. |
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09-22-2019, 10:03 PM | #8 | |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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Quote:
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09-23-2019, 12:10 AM | #9 | |
Drives: 2020 SS 1LE (previous: 2017 SS 1LE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada, eh!
Posts: 5,091
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Quote:
On a serious note, if WEC and IMSA pro teams can win races on pads with *medium* torque, while dealing with huge deceleration rates, not to mention competition, why on Earth are resellers pushing extreme torque pads to amateurs with street cars? It defies logic... But, the power of retail marketing (and Internet "expert" peer pressure) is damn effective. And all too often it then leads to full brake "upgrades" for serious coin, which further empties one's wallet. Been there, done it, lost the tshirt lol. Bottom line: i know what my pace is. I know that improving it has zero to do with brake pads |
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09-23-2019, 06:43 AM | #10 | |
Drives: ISO ss 1le Join Date: May 2018
Location: FL
Posts: 764
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Quote:
We swapped the fronts to r12’s after overheating the front r16’s (not enough heat in the rear so the fronts were taking the brunt of it). Jordan mentioned the r12’s were much more compliant, and easier to modulate with a little less torque up front. Not to mention we both put down a better lap time with r12’s over the r16’s. Now i know there are so many different driving styles, so take this all with a grain of salt. But just some food for thought! |
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09-23-2019, 07:53 AM | #11 | |
Drives: 2020 SS 1LE (previous: 2017 SS 1LE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada, eh!
Posts: 5,091
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Quote:
Not to gloat here either, but i rest my case, which is further validated by specific pad choices of top pro teams and their brake system design priorities. Incidentally this also supports my other posts not to stagger pads F vs R as it will further (and completely unnecessarily - on a Camaro) over work the fronts (which already do a lion's share of work). Please congratulate Jordan for making Corvette Racing C8R team next year! Never met him personally, but have watched many of his races over the years. Cheers! |
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09-23-2019, 09:10 AM | #12 | |
Drives: 2016 2SS BLK A8 Vert Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: MA
Posts: 1,029
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Quote:
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NPP, MRC, Tinted side & rear reflectors, OEM ZL1 Rockers / 3rd Brake / Darken tail lights, OEM Blk rear splash guards, Satin hood wrap, Fuse pull, Sound tube delete, Cat delete, Ported 95 TB, Ported MSD IM, Dry RotoFab, ARH 1 7/8 headers, E85, "Performance Dyno" Tune, BMR "pieces", "Track" alignment, Hawk DCT-70/70's w/SRF, Goodridge lines, Ti shims, Red powdered calipers, 18" APEX SM-10's w/ Pirelli DH's, FE4 Vert swaybars, Brake cooling ducts, ATI 10% UD, Vorshlag camber plates, OEM 1LE Splitter w/APR Ext., Velossa BIG MOUTH Ram Air, CF QA1, ZLE brakes(F)
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09-23-2019, 10:24 AM | #13 |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 2,474
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I had this a bit after the first event running DTC 60s (with Shims) on my car, I removed the shims to see if that would get rid of it and it did. So my guess is it mostly comes down to increased thickness. So at least on an SS 1LE if you have brand new Hawks with shims don't be surprised by a lil bit of dragging, but once they wear down a bit you're fine. Not sure how that applies to the Z though with different pad size/thickness.
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09-23-2019, 10:49 AM | #14 |
Drives: '19 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 127
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Mine drag in the same manner. GLoc R12/R10. No shims. They have dragged from new and are down to the thickness of the backplate now.
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