[Racerman27410]

tracking down a dead short should be fairly routine.

if the fuse doesn't pop until you drive the car its not a shorted wire. They don't ever short and then fix themselves.... they stay shorted....

The fact the fuse doesn't blow until you drive and make a turn is telling me the fault is probably a mechanical fault .... it appears there is a hydraulic pump involved and that is motor driven.
what is the amp rating on the fuse that's blowing?

.

i found this bit of information that may be handy in troubleshooting your issue. Might even be able to see exactly what conditions cause the fuse blow during the ELSD operation in real time by watching the coupling percentages on the DIC while you drive .... for example say a hard right hand turn pops the fuse every time but a hard left hand turn doesn't? try different things like put one wheel in the grass and one on pavement ... that move should trigger full lock on the diff. Being able to reliably replicate the failure is the first step in repairing the problem.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...58840-9999.pdf

[Batwhlz]

Racer man, the F22 fuse is 30A. The only constant that I can replicate is popping the same fuse. It pops if I hit a bump, accelerate hard or soft, turning the steering wheel or keeping it straight. I pulled up the ELSD screen, but it is inoperable when the fuse is blown, and it blows within seconds of pulling out the driveway. I made it about 300ft recently before it popped, but I was driving it around 5mph then I hit a bump and it popped.

I watched the video (thanks for posting) so do you think it’s the motor that runs the hydraulic pump?

[95 imp]

The exhaust gets hotter as you accelerate, just like the water and oil temps.

Did you put a shield around the new module, or insulate it?

[Racerman27410]

Originally Posted by Batwhlz

Racer man, the F22 fuse is 30A. The only constant that I can replicate is popping the same fuse. It pops if I hit a bump, accelerate hard or soft, turning the steering wheel or keeping it straight. I pulled up the ELSD screen, but it is inoperable when the fuse is blown, and it blows within seconds of pulling out the driveway. I made it about 300ft recently before it popped, but I was driving it around 5mph then I hit a bump and it popped.

I watched the video (thanks for posting) so do you think it’s the motor that runs the hydraulic pump?

A 30 amp fuse definitely sounds like the power feed to the pump motor. Computers usually have much lower amp rated fuses. The fact that just going over a bump can cause the fuse to blow makes me think wiring issue and starting at the rear diff you can find the plug that goes into the pump motor and follow the wires back to look for obvious issues like cuts /melted sections. It could also be an internal wiring issue with the pump moto and that is where i would be looking real hard.

[Batwhlz]

95 IMP, yes I put a heat shield around it but it did not help.

Racerman, I will jack the car up this weekend and start chasing again starting at the rear differential. If it’s internal I don’t know how to troubleshoot that. I will keep you posted. Thanks again for the advice.

[Racerman27410]

Originally Posted by Batwhlz

95 IMP, yes I put a heat shield around it but it did not help.

Racerman, I will jack the car up this weekend and start chasing again starting at the rear differential. If it’s internal I don’t know how to troubleshoot that. I will keep you posted. Thanks again for the advice.

I believe the easiest thing to do to narrow it down would be to unplug the pump motor harness right at the rear diff. then drive the car and see if the fuse blows. If it blows with the diff harness loose then the odds are you have a short in the wiring somewhere between the diff and computer. If the fuse only blows when the pump motor is plugged in then i would lean towards a pump motor internal failure.

You have to start somewhere. Good luck Brother!

[Batwhlz]

Racerman, I totally agree with you. Thanks. I should be able to try it this weekend. I will post when I’m done.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by Racerman27410

I believe the easiest thing to do to narrow it down would be to unplug the pump motor harness right at the rear diff. then drive the car and see if the fuse blows. If it blows with the diff harness loose then the odds are you have a short in the wiring somewhere between the diff and computer. If the fuse only blows when the pump motor is plugged in then i would lean towards a pump motor internal failure.

You have to start somewhere. Good luck Brother!

+1

[Batwhlz]

Update: I found the issue. The EBCM wire running to the fuse box was making contact with the header. The insulation was a little burnt, I put heat resistant tape on it and went for a test drive. The fuse did not pop. In a way, the dealership was right when they said my after market headers was causing the issue, but they were completely wrong by suggesting it was the EBCM getting heat soaked. I hope this helps other people if they start blowing the F22 fuse.

[Racerman27410]

Originally Posted by Batwhlz

Update: I found the issue. The EBCM wire running to the fuse box was making contact with the header. The insulation was a little burnt, I put heat resistant tape on it and went for a test drive. The fuse did not pop. In a way, the dealership was right when they said my after market headers was causing the issue, but they were completely wrong by suggesting it was the EBCM getting heat soaked. I hope this helps other people if they start blowing the F22 fuse.

Good on ya brother for getting this figured out!

I know you are feeling a lot better about things now... enjoy the drive!

[Batwhlz]

Thanks Racerman, you helped out a lot. I was able to narrow the problem area down with your suggestions.

[Racerman27410]

Originally Posted by Batwhlz

Thanks Racerman, you helped out a lot. I was able to narrow the problem area down with your suggestions.

No worries my friend, happy to help!

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by Batwhlz

Update: I found the issue. The EBCM wire running to the fuse box was making contact with the header. The insulation was a little burnt, I put heat resistant tape on it and went for a test drive. The fuse did not pop. In a way, the dealership was right when they said my after market headers was causing the issue, but they were completely wrong by suggesting it was the EBCM getting heat soaked. I hope this helps other people if they start blowing the F22 fuse.

Feels SO good to figure this sh*t out

[Batwhlz]

Yes it does