[oneplustwo]

Has anyone tried this technique?

https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakeped...eposit-removal

I have some brake shudder from the stock pads. It’s possible I didn’t bed them in correctly. Or perhaps I didn’t let them cool enough before letting the car sit after a long session. In any case, I’m wondering if just going to more aggressive pads will correct this or if I need to turn or get new rotors.

I have had Raybestos st43 on order for weeks now but apparently there’s a national shortage. I couldn’t find the right part number for the 9012 mentioned in the link. I’m open to other ideas too. Trying to get it situated for a track day at laguna on the 14th.

Thx for any insight!

[supersportss]

You can turn them once and no more, I wouldn't. The last time I turned them I bedded them like four aggressive heat cycles from 40-10 , then 30-10 four times then drive at least 5 minutes without braking allowing the brakes to cool, it sounds hard but it's not and it worked, this time.

[cdrptrks]

If you can feel raised spots of brake pad material on the rotor, garnet paper will remove them. It can happen if you wash the car and then leave it sit for a few days...always drive for at least a few minutes after a wash.

Otherwise I agree to just try bedding them in again if you can find an empty section of road to safely do repeated heavy braking from highway speeds.

[oneplustwo]

Can you bed the same pads in again? I suppose that makes sense, but I haven't tried it.

[usdashworks]

the brake deposits will come off on their own. atleast mine always did. i had carbotech xp 20 on a mk7 gti and it usually took a few days after the track day to smoothen out.

anyways if you are swapping pads you need to turn them down or put new rotors on for the pads to bed properly.

[cdb95z28]

I've used this and it works:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[carguy55]

I use the medium grit one but the the coarse may be needed if its severe

https://www.amazon.com/Brush-Researc.../dp/B007INTE3Q

http://www.brushresearch.com/pdf/fle...otors_2010.pdf

[oneplustwo]

Ordered the coarse one and will give it a shot. I assume you took the rotors off and just did them on a work bench?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by oneplustwo

Ordered the coarse one and will give it a shot. I assume you took the rotors off and just did them on a work bench?

Correct. You'll be able to tell that you have removed all of the old pad material with a change in the color/finish of the surface. This also gives a nice cross hatch pattern for bed in. Then give them a good wash with BraKleen then reinstall. Then do the pad bed in procedure.

While using this flex hone will give you a fresh surface, if you are overheating the OE pads on track, then you may experience the same uneven pad deposits again. You could be correct on the transfer of material due to inadequate cool down.

But I see your car is supercharged, you are carrying alot more top speed than the car was engineered for, which could very well push the OE pads to their limits. Going to a higher heat pad is good, but be aware that the rest of the system could still be heat stressed. The calipers will also see more heat. The fluid choice and freshness will be more critical. Dust seals will degrade faster. I have seen a couple of instances of Gen6 SS 1LE owners switching to the ST43 and have had fluid boiling. A set of titanium shims from Girodisc can help slow the heat transfer into the calipers. On my Gen5 1LE, I run the 6 piston brakes, ST43 pads, titanium shims, Brembo HTC64T fluid and non stock brake cooling with zero heat related issues. It can be done, race pads will require more eyes on the components, especially the fluid, and more maintenance.

[oneplustwo]

Excellent advice, thanks! I was already planning on running the shims and I already boiled the stock fluid so we're on the same page there. Do you run the shims for the rear calipers too or just the fronts? Also, have you had good luck with the Brembo fluid vs. motul 600 or castrol SRF?

[cdb95z28]

The shims are for just the fronts.

I used to run Castrol SRF, then switched to the Brembo HTC-64T. The Brembo fluid feels better to me. The SRF can soften when it gets very hot. This is called hot compressibility. Myself and others have experienced it. It is not boiling, it just gets a little bit softer pedal. Once the fluid cools to ambient the softness goes away and the good pedal returns. Boiled fluid will not return a firm pedal.

This summer was the first season I used the Brembo fluid, I'm going to continue to use it.

My opinion on the Motul is that is is not capable enough for the temps of race pads on our cars. But track configuration and driver technique can play a part in that.

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by oneplustwo

Ordered the coarse one and will give it a shot. I assume you took the rotors off and just did them on a work bench?

I do them on the car after pulling the brake pads

[oneplustwo]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I do them on the car after pulling the brake pads

Was it easier to do it that way given access to the interior side would be relatively tough?

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by oneplustwo

Was it easier to do it that way given access to the interior side would be relatively tough?

No problem on the fronts since I have the smaller splash shield from the SS track kit mounted, plus you rotate the rotor during the process. The rear is a different story.